2G Turbo - Inconsistent clutch engagement

[mr nobody]

I've searched all the clutch engagement threads with no help.

Here's the symptoms:

Clutch (Bully 6 puck + pressure plate, braided SS lines) feels like its engaging too low. Feels really light and there's a lot of free play at the top. At this point, the clutch will disengage and engage fine, but it will not pop up on its own from the free play point.

Adjust the master cyclinder rod until it feels good. Driving with this, the engagement either becomes low again, or becomes really stiff (2g pedal pump symptom) without me making any more adjustment to the rod. A 1/4 turn of the rod goes from too low and pedal doesn't pop up, to just slight low with occasional pedal pump symptoms.

What I have done:

Backed off upper stop until I get full pedal movement. Master rod is adjusted (lengthened as much as possible) and slave is check to ensure no preload.

Replaced master. Got it free with the car and it was supposed to be brand new (looks new). Can't confirm if it is Mitsu or aftermarket. It came with a non-turbo connector to the pedal. Had to reuse my connector from original.

Bled the system 3-4 times.

Replaced slave. Brand new Mitsu.

Last thing I did was slave and another bleed. Car was good for 20 minutes, now symptoms have come back.

I'm at wits end. Any ideas?

(Sorry, should have posted in Problem Diagnosis. Chalk one up for the newb )

 

[ApexVIII]

I've searched all the clutch engagement threads with no help.

Here's the symptoms:

Clutch (Bully 6 puck + pressure plate, braided SS lines) feels like its engaging too low. Feels really light and there's a lot of free play at the top. At this point, the clutch will disengage and engage fine, but it will not pop up on its own from the free play point.

Adjust the master cyclinder rod until it feels good. Driving with this, the engagement either becomes low again, or becomes really stiff (2g pedal pump symptom) without me making any more adjustment to the rod. A 1/4 turn of the rod goes from too low and pedal doesn't pop up, to just slight low with occasional pedal pump symptoms.

What I have done:

Backed off upper stop until I get full pedal movement. Master rod is adjusted (lengthened as much as possible) and slave is check to ensure no preload.

Replaced master. Got it free with the car and it was supposed to be brand new (looks new). Can't confirm if it is Mitsu or aftermarket. It came with a non-turbo connector to the pedal. Had to reuse my connector from original.

Bled the system 3-4 times.

Replaced slave. Brand new Mitsu.

Last thing I did was slave and another bleed. Car was good for 20 minutes, now symptoms have come back.

I'm at wits end. Any ideas?

(Sorry, should have posted in Problem Diagnosis. Chalk one up for the newb )

have you adjusted the top adjustment? mine was doing the same thing and i had to adjust the top where the cruze control sensor makes contact with the clutch petal

RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info

read at the bottom about 2g clutch adjustment
hope this helps!

 

[DeNoZZo]

I also had the same problem, and like apexVIII, mine went away after I adjusted the upper stop.

 

[mr nobody]

Yes, I mentioned that I adjusted the upper stop all the way out already for maximum pedal movement. I've already looked through all the guides - RRE, Jack's Transmission Youtube video, all the board posts, etc.

Now another strange thing I forgot to mention. In the morning when the car is cold (been sitting out all night), the clutch is great and consistent for about 20 minutes. Then it does its thing of being good some presses, light some presses, and occasionally hard. Even if the car is not moving and I just press the clutch a few times, it varies.

Now, I get to work and the car sits in an underground garage for 8 hours. Driving home, the clutch is only good for maybe 5 minutes, then it acts up right away.

Another question: How many bleed processes do I need to fully bleed the system that had its entire fluids drained? A single bleed process being defined as "pump, pump, pump, open valve, close valve, check resevoir level". I'm hoping I just need to bleed the system MORE, though I stopped when there was no more bubbles. Otherwise, I'm out of ideas.

 

[darkhorizon]

The gravity bleed method I use on my fiero projects go like this.

Get the bleed close, at least have a decent amount of fluid in the lines.
remove cap from master.
Crack slave bleeder.
Let it sit, gravity bleed, and cycle through a few small cups full of fluid, maybe 2 resivors full.
Close the slave, cap the master.
gently "wiggle" the master for a bit, 2-3 inch strokes, lightly and slowly, getting increasingly more aggressive. Take your time inbetween wiggles,.
This method should remove a good amount of air from the master if it was never bled perfect at one time.

An addition to this method may involve doing the full gravity bleed, a few wiggles, then let it sit over night, then come back, wiggle some more, then you should be set!

If that doesnt work, maybe you have a issue with your line, maybe a leak or something.