2G TSI AWD tranny engagement problem..

[duwackerTSi69]

Okay heres the scoop. I have a 95 TSi AWD manual equiped talon and the trans does not want to engage when the car is started. I tried messing with the adjustment rod on the master cylinder but that didnt seem to help. I recently installed a Act 2100 with my trans when I rebuilt it the last coupla months. Ever since the clutch upgrade im having this problem. And while I installed the clutch I picked up a new clutch master cylinder because mine started to leak in my floor board. I bled the system properly and I check my slave and all seems to be fine. I tried a longer slave rod that cam with my bro's Team RIP stage3 tranny and didnt seem to help at all either? Anywaone wanna take a crack at this??

 

[1sttimedsmr]

Okay heres the scoop. I have a 95 TSi AWD manual equiped talon and the trans does not want to engage when the car is started. I tried messing with the adjustment rod on the master cylinder but that didnt seem to help. I recently installed a Act 2100 with my trans when I rebuilt it the last coupla months. Ever since the clutch upgrade im having this problem. And while I installed the clutch I picked up a new clutch master cylinder because mine started to leak in my floor board. I bled the system properly and I check my slave and all seems to be fine. I tried a longer slave rod that cam with my bro's Team RIP stage3 tranny and didnt seem to help at all either? Anywaone wanna take a crack at this??

I had the same problem with mine (fidanza set up) and notice the step hight was too small. and the clutch disc did not have enough space between the pp and flywheel to disengage. what i did. I put some washers (one tenth of a inch) between the pp and fw. that fiv=xed my problem. Also just to make sure I replace the throw out bearing, because the one they give you seems pretty crappy.

 

[duwackerTSi69]

Its a new TOB from ACT. So let me get this right? You put washers in netween the FW and PP??WTF Didnt that cause your clutch to slip??

 

[1sttimedsmr]

Its a new TOB from ACT. So let me get this right? You put washers in netween the FW and PP??WTF Didnt that cause your clutch to slip??

Nope, not at all. When you do that , you are just making up for the space missing between the flywheel and pressure plate. Later on when you feel like your clutch is slipping you just remove the washers and you are set. You gotta understand that everything is brand you , thick and bulky and needs to broken in.Oh and about the tob. even if it is brand you that don't mean sh#t. Mine was brand new also. Just for giggles go to an auto parts and compare it, you will see the difference, the step is higher.

 

[antilag]

OK, first is your slave cylinder good. Any time you have to replace your master cylinder, the slave is usually on its way out or already bad. Check to see if there is any fluid inside the slave boot. Next, don't run the act tob. There are many cases of these grenading, use oem mitsu only, you will have much fewer problems.
I really wouldn't suggest putting washers between the pp and fw. It will cause a loss in clamping force. The better way to get more throw from the slave is to shim under the pivot ball. It will give you the throw you need and you will not lose any clamping force. One 1/16th in washer should do the trick.

 

[duwackerTSi69]

OK, first is your slave cylinder good. Any time you have to replace your master cylinder, the slave is usually on its way out or already bad. Check to see if there is any fluid inside the slave boot. Next, don't run the act tob. There are many cases of these grenading, use oem mitsu only, you will have much fewer problems.
I really wouldn't suggest putting washers between the pp and fw. It will cause a loss in clamping force. The better way to get more throw from the slave is to shim under the pivot ball. It will give you the throw you need and you will not lose any clamping force. One 1/16th in washer should do the trick.

Iv watched all the vids from Jacks Trannys and was thinking about that shimming on the pivot ball, but wasnt to sure. I figuired I would get some insight befor I try it. When I tried using the extended slave rod I took the boot off the slave and it was dry, with no sign of fluid leeking. Ill take the trans out tomorrow and give that a try?? Is it a good idea to use the extended slave rod, or just use the factory one?? Thanks

 

[Jdog]

Typically extending the slave rod is just a fix for an already breaking slave cylinder. More importantly shim the pivot ball appropriately as shown on Jack's transmissions website to ensure the slave is getting a full throw to it.

 

[duwackerTSi69]

Okay, thanks for the help guys.. Ill pull the tranny yet once again for the 5th time since I have owned the car.... You would think that as many times as I have taken the thing out I would be a pro at it?? But every time I do, its an adventure

 

[antilag]

You should be good with the stock rod after shimming and properly adjusting the master.

 

[duwackerTSi69]

Well, I tried the "shimming" idea and it was a failure. So I took the trans off again and put another 1/16th washer on and tried that.. Didnt work either. I am going to take it off again in a coupla hours and just say screw the Act unit and throw my stocker on.. Unless I can get some good ideas whats going on with my clutch??

Is ther anyway the fingers on my pressure plate could be off so that they wont travel as far to relieve the pressure on the clutch disk, thus not dis-engaging all the way.. In other words, the fingers are hitting the clutch? Get what I am saying??

 

[brownfinger]

you need to measure the step height before you drive yourself anymore crazier, ya know, the distance between where the PP bolts to the FW, and the friction surface on the FW. That's what shimming the PP with washers is a quick fix for. You take that measurement, and compare it to the stock spec. If it's less than the spec, you need to have your flywheel machined.

 

[95greentsi]

did you put a new clutch fork in? im hoping the answer is yes

 

[my4ATEurV8]

I did get a new fork... I am about to pull the tranny again in a few minutes.. I guess when I get it out ill take it somewhere to get it machined in the morning. I have a genuine mitsubishi service manual handy so ill look up how to measure it when shes all taken apart. Anyone by chance know what the step hight should be??

 

[my4ATEurV8]

I did get a new fork... I am about to pull the tranny again in a few minutes.. I guess when I get it out ill take it somewhere to get it machined in the morning. I have a genuine mitsubishi service manual handy so ill look up how to measure it when shes all taken apart. Anyone by chance know what the step hight should be??

Just relized im on my bros sn..

 

[Jdog]

.610 should be the step height check this out at the top of the page RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info

 

[1sttimedsmr]

Well, I tried the "shimming" idea and it was a failure. So I took the trans off again and put another 1/16th washer on and tried that.. Didnt work either. I am going to take it off again in a coupla hours and just say screw the Act unit and throw my stocker on.. Unless I can get some good ideas whats going on with my clutch??

Is ther anyway the fingers on my pressure plate could be off so that they wont travel as far to relieve the pressure on the clutch disk, thus not dis-engaging all the way.. In other words, the fingers are hitting the clutch? Get what I am saying??

Trust me , if the step height is no right, you need to some how compensate it, Washers worked for me. Just my .02.

 

[antilag]

This is just to make sure but, is the master cylinder rod adjusted all the way out?

 

[duwackerTSi69]

Okay I got the trans out at about 11pm last night, got the FW off and this morning I dropped it off at a local machine shop to correct the step height and resurface the flywheel. It should have been close to .612'' for the OEM clutch, and when the machinest measure it, it was below .600''..WTF I need it corrected to .608'' to .610'' for performance clutch per RRE's info here. RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info I cant really understand this type of measurements but does this sound like a good reason for my dis-engagement problems?? Would that measurement make the ACT clutch harder to dis-engage or vise versa?? Reason for asking is, if thats not the case then I might have another problem somewhere else??The only thing that didnt goto plan was when I was taking off the last FW bolt, my impact gun stripped the head real bad so I ended up welding a another 17mm nut on the end of it and used that to get it off.. Worked good, but now I need another FW bolt.. Would it be a wise idea to leave one of the shims under the pivot ball just incase I might need one, and adjust the play with the clutch adjustment rod on the master cylinder?? I was leaning towards a yes??

I guess the washer idea between the PP and FW is basically the same thing as correcting the step height, but I would rather get it done right the first time. Its only $50 for the machinest to do it. If I did this in the first place I wouldnt have had to take the trans out 3 times in 2 days.. Now thats worth $50 in my eyes?? The tips of my fingers are killing me, and my back aches like crazy..I guess to each his own, I wouldnt want washers between my pp and fw. Thanks guys for the help and I get to pick the FW up this afternoon, and back in the car she goes tonight..

 

[antilag]

Yes you want a shim under the pivot ball since the FW has been machined.

If my thinking is correct and your step was below .600 I would think that the clutch would not release and you would be stuck in neutral if the car was running and not be able to start it if it was in gear.

 

[duwackerTSi69]

I never thaught in a xxx amount of years that it could have been the reason for my clutch problems. I just figured resurfacing was just for glazed, cracked and warped flywheels?? I have installed several oem, and Act clutches in my cars, and other peoples cars and never had this much trouble.. I just put a Act DTSS clutch and flywheel in my friends black Evo9 about a week ago, and it was smooth as can be.. Except for the fact the trans weighed a friggin TON, and I had to really monkey around to get it out because it was such a tight fit.. Not to get off topic, but every time I take a FW out, ill get it checked and machined if nesesary(*spelling*).. However I didnt get around to putting the car all back together because I have to get new FW Bolts, and should have them tomorrow sometime. Mitsubishi wouldnt sell me just 1 of them. Damn parts dealers, I tell ya... Thanks for explaining the whole measurement thing to me. I could tell you if 3/8 is bigger or smaller then a 1/2 but when someone gets into decimals like that, I dont know if I had too much or not enough materiel then what should have been there??.. Im like a small child sometimes. I just need someone to break it down for me, and just explain certain things.. If I couldnt have gotten this figured out soon then I would have strangled myself and junked the car, thats how frustrated I would have been..Anyway I will keep you posted as to my car puzzle I have layin all over my garage... Thanks man

 

[my4ATEurV8]

Jesus, I am an idiot.. Well more or less that I didnt know this until I called Jon@TeamRip..

My clutch master cylinder is brand new. I never bench bled the master cylinder befor I installed it in the car. I just put it in and bled the normal way through the slave.....

Hows that sound for something that could cause a clutch problem??

 

[duwackerTSi69]

So I decided to go all Pink Panther on my bro's Talon and take his Master cylinder and slave to see if that did anything, and well, it did. I'M just glad he's in Cali-Forn-I-A for the next 2 weeks?? Do you think he'll notice when he gets back?? Just don't go telling on me now..

What I did was use my slave and his master to try and find the bad part, kinda like process of elimination, and that combo worked just fine. Gravity bled the system for a few minutes and started the engine, and what do you know? It disengaged the first time.. So the moral of this story is, someone please just say it for me??

Since I fixed it earlier today, I have put about 75 miles on her to just make sure she's good to go and road worthy? Now she's tucked in for the night untill tomorrow so I can put the new carpet in, and put the rest of the interior back together.. Thanks for all the great idea's and help for my problems guy/gals...

 

[rush2252]

If you cant triple stamp a double stand can you actually jack your own thread?

Next tme try spacing out the long posts and making sure you on your account I was uberly confused to whom had the isse

 

[2point3Tsi]

I shimmed my pivot ball and replaced my clutch fork and pivot ball when I put in my act 2600. works great. I hadn't replaced my pivot ball and clutch fork before and my tranny wouldn't disengage.

lesson learned. all that extra clutch disc thickness with act flywheel wouldn't let me put it in gear with the worn clutch fork and pivot ball.

just something to think about.

 

[my4ATEurV8]

hey fuc% a$$, put my shi! back in my car. i told you what the problem was with your disengagement prob. why the hell didnt you call me first????????? im f-ing pissed! what..... did you forget that im a member here too, and that i wouldnt see this. im coming home! im pissed because you didnt call me first. dedadee. i would of said yes if you would just let me know whats going on