25PSI Boost goal! Need help W/ parts list!!!

[91orangeGST]

Like the title says I'm building my 1991 GSX to reach a goal of around 25 psi of boost and high 300 hp or low 400 hp. I'm posting a parts list and I would like people to post suggestions or parts that would support my cars demand.

ENGINE:

Wiseco pistons w/ rings 20 OVER.. End gap .004 in extra on #1 and .007 in. extra on #2 ring

Clevitte 77 rod and main bearings

ARP EVERYTHING (main, rod, head)

Cometic Hp head gasket

Bronze valve guides...... Do they require 1mm bigger valves???



T3 or T4 50trim - Stage 3 - .63A/R

ACT 2600 clutch

Findez*** aluminum flywheel

3" turbo back exhaust

FMIC 28" by 12" (Should I go bigger???)

New intake tube and K&N filter W/ air sensore box removed

3" Dejon tool upper intercooler blow thru

GM MAFT with the tuner (Will this be good enough to control the fuel and air supply or will I need a dsmlink?)

walbro 255 fuel pump

AFPR W adapter and stainless lines.

750cc injectors ( will I need bigger ????)

All gauges...

Turbo XS RFL Vented bov

Manual boost controller...

Please reply with any ADVICE or suggestions or anything that will help me before I purchase my parts list. I dont want to order a part then have it screw up because its not able to handle the higher demand. Also I am on a budget so anything cheaper will help alot!!! Please help with any advice!

Thanks,
Kyle

 

[staticbrainwash]

looks ok, but in terms of fuel you might want to think about getting something better than just the translator.

from what i understand, even pushing a safc past 650's gets a bit hairy. if i were you, i'd pick up an eprom and get it sourced to your 750's or whatever you end up with. then do fine tuning with the translator and an safc.

bronze guides don't require oversized valves, but i would maybe look into some p&p work on the head. also, if you havn't already, eliminate the balance shafts. youll get better oil pressure and reliability.

motor mounts aren't a bad idea either.

are you going to go with tubular headers? if not, i'd go with SBR's cast manny, and get it flanged for the wastegate, or were you planning on putting the WG on the O2 housing? and are you going to use stock bigrods? if you want to push past 350ish i'd say upgrade rods too.

good luck, im doing a build right now myself. not anything like you're planning, im just going for maybe 275hp out of my 14b.but yeah, have fun and good luck

 

[Mackzero]

Get DSMLink for your tuning, SAFCs are good, DSMLink is the best for our cars.

You are probably going to want a bigger turbo also.... as I assume that you want to do this on PUMP GAS.

 

[2gGSX]

The intercooler setup should be enough for your needs if it's that size and a true 3 inch thick one, but if you do encounter excessive knock you could look into water injection.

 

[dsmsucks]

I think you might be over the recommended torque for the act 2600

 

[Malero5]

His turbo is fine for his goals. You can hit those numbers on race gas on an evo III and on pump gas with a good 50 trim. 50 trims do great on 94 octane.

Machined 1g rods do fine all the way up to about 450 WHP for a good amount of miles. 1g rods with clevite bearings are quite resiliant.

 

[91orangeGST]

I apologize for that, I forgot to put that I am eliminating the BS's. I was going to get tubular headers but thats if I still have some extra cash in my budget. Also yes, I plan on running 93 octane. Also I was going to have the stock 1g rods, but I'm looking into upgrading. I've thought about water injection, but that would be later on down the road... Also I thought i was in the torque range of the act 2600??? Adding to the list is some thick magna core plug wires. Would anyone recommend going with the 4 prong Bosch plugs or could that blow my piston?

I've heard that the bronze valve guides aren't good for street use cause they wear away quicker. Is this true? Also I was talking the the machine shop and they said look into cast iron valve guides that are bronze on the tips (Never heard of them before).

Thanks for all the advice so far!!!

Kyle,

 

[2gGSX]

Stick with NGK plugs, probably around the BPR8ES area if you're going to run that much boost.

 

[Thomas91169]

DSMLINK!!!!!!!!!!

its worth every penny.

you can either lie to your ecu to run the fuel you want, but youre still only limited to controlling fuel.

or you can straight up make your ecu your bi***, tell it how to control the injectors, timing and airflow.

youll make more power with dsmlink's default settings(with lots of room for improvements) for your car than any safc/maft combo fine tuned.

are you using 1g big rods as well?

other than that, id say your set for some nice gains, 400hp shouldnt be a problem.

 

[91orangeGST]

Anyother suggestions?

 

[Maglin]

Well speaking from experiance. I run 25 PSI daily. On craptastic 91 West coast gas. I have a FMIC core of 9.5x24x3.5 and it's perfect. The hot does get hot but the cold side is always almost ambient temps. At least to the hand. Running 2.5" IC piping including a 2.5" TB "elbow". I run 1000cc injectors and at my 8.5K redline in 3rd gear I see almost 70% IDC which would be maxing out 700cc injectors. Mind you this is only running a 11.0:1 AFR.

I still have a totally stock bottom end minus balance shafts of course. If you plan on getting forged pistons might as well get a set of good rods as well or just stick with factory mistu parts. You need to kept in mind that forged internals require you to warm them up before you place load on them for longetivty. IE... You need to give the car a few minutes of running before you take off anywhere.

You definitly want to be able to control your timing and fuel. DSMLink is a good way to go. Or you can read up on DSM-ECU on yahoo groups and learn how to do your own ECU editing. It's what I do. Plus you are not limited by only what DSMLink can do. Also with that kind of boost you will need to get a wideband. I currently run my WB in place of the NB for the ECU with some minor code changes to the ECU and it's next to the best thing since sliced bread. Very easy to see AFR in your Datalogs.

Also you will have people tell you want like 18* of timing advance or more. Not at 25 PSI on pump gas. At 7K on the 12th (last) load map I'm only running 13* of timing advance. I also run a knock fuel cut setup so if I go over 19 counts of knock I fuel cut and save my motor.

Also don't get the Fidenza flywheel. The clutch bolts are in aluminum and will pull out from the heat of slipping your clutch. I bought the 8 lbs fidenza and decided not to run it and stayed with my OEM flywheel. I'm going to go with the ACT streetlight the next time I take the motor out. It's a few lbs. lighter than stock and has the correct stepping for the ACT clutch. And on that note the 2600 with street disc is just fine. You don't want a puck disc as it will only slow you down and eventually kill your gears. You also might want to look into getting your tranny built. It won't last to long under those power levels.

You might also want to look into the SD project that pudhead (Nick) has put together for the 1G ECU. I'm converting over to it shortly. Currently useing a MAFT in blowthrough. Works like a champ but has the draw backs of being a tad rich in cold weather and slightly lean in hot weather. I know this for a fact as I just moved from 75* weather to 105* weather and saw some pretty drastic changes to my tune.

I'm looking forward to seeing how it turns out for you. Kept us posted.

 

[kgtalon95]

There's two ways to make power.......the right way with the right maps, not lying to the ecu, or by piggybacking. I've ridden in both and I can tell you right now both are fast and piggybacking is way cheaper. The only disadvantage to piggybacking is no load based tuning. My advice would be to stick with an afc and maybe get a chip for injector comp. or a maft. I use the afc/maft combo and it works pretty well. Or go big the first time with ems

 

[91orangeGST]

Are the 750cc injectors going to be big enough for 25psi of boost... Also im getting dsmlink.

 

[Mike1992]

I've heard that the bronze valve guides aren't good for street use cause they wear away quicker. Is this true? Also I was talking the the machine shop and they said look into cast iron valve guides that are bronze on the tips (Never heard of them before)

More info? I just had some of these installed.