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1G throttle body swap diagnosis please

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EclipseTrbo420A

15+ Year Contributor
3,427
38
Jan 23, 2004
WhiteOak/PGH, Pennsylvania
I swaped my throttle body for a 1G yesterday and it was pretty straight forward, but still theres always a problem.

I swaped my TPS and my ISC over to the 1gTB the ISC tested at 32 across=good.

Now when I turn my car on it idles at 2000 and if I try to drive easily to warm it up the car acts choppy, stubborn and surges a bit, but warmed up it will idle at about 800

What could this be and should I just build a block off plate for the bottom of the throttlebody? I was searching and I saw theres different ports to block off and leave open, but I couldnt figuree out why. Could someone explain these different holes and options please. Thanks guys.
 
Boosted98gsx said:
FIAV is bad.

Is that for sure your saying ? or a guess? Either way THANKS for the responce this is killing me.

WOuld a fix be to just run the coolan lines together instead of through it ?

Also are a 2G and 1G fiav the same? can I swap that from my 2g ? Thanks.
 
Yes, you can swap the FIAV off your 2g TB. Make sure you use an impact screwdriver on the philips screws though, they're very easy to strip otherwise.

I had the same problem as you with my FIAV when I switched to a 1g TB. I blocked it off entirely. Car doesn't idle at 2k anymore, but it doesn't like cold weather much now either.
 
Boosted98gsx said:
Yes, you can swap the FIAV off your 2g TB. Make sure you use an impact screwdriver on the philips screws though, they're very easy to strip otherwise.

I had the same problem as you with my FIAV when I switched to a 1g TB. I blocked it off entirely. Car doesn't idle at 2k anymore, but it doesn't like cold weather much now either.

I am assuming since I can swap the 1g for the 2g then I can make a block off plate based off of my 2g throttle body. This plate will eliminate the entire bottom including the isc, correct? Also, I have seen some block off plates people have made holes in them. Why did they do that and I just want one solid piece to cover everything, right? Thanks guys.
 
Boosted98gsx said:
No, you will want to keep your ISC. That is what the holes are for.

SO the ISC bolts on top of the plate then both go to the TB? I have heard of people just JB welding it but that doesnt seem all that smart to do anyhow. Thanks for the help if I need anything else Ill ask.

Also, I have a good FIAV ( from my 2G ) I just read it will fit. WIll it be better for me to just place this on and be done or finish up the plate and not have that hot A$$ coolant circulating in my TB to heat it up? Which would be better>? Will the coolant even make a difference in the TB, even if it is so hot? Thanks.
 
Blocking off the FIAV is up to you. You will lose a good start during cold weather (it will choke out on you unless you keep the rpms up until it's to operating temperature), but you will gain a no longer boiling hot throttlebody.
 
Ok I made a plate, that blocks the fiav exit like this. Ill post pics of my plate in 5 minutes.
 

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Since your 2g ISC is good, did you readjust your TPS?

fold a piece of paper 4 times in half and then insert into your throttle stop. Then loosen your 2 8mm bolts on the TPS so you can move it around. Pins 1-3 should be adjusted to the point of continuity and noncontinuity. Every car is different, but when 1-3 was at that point, pins 1-2 was at .68k ohms.
 
blcknspo0ln said:
Since your 2g ISC is good, did you readjust your TPS?

fold a piece of paper 4 times in half and then insert into your throttle stop. Then loosen your 2 8mm bolts on the TPS so you can move it around. Pins 1-3 should be adjusted to the point of continuity and noncontinuity. Every car is different, but when 1-3 was at that point, pins 1-2 was at .68k ohms.

Whats this continuity? and also I have a safc so could I adjust my tps off of that ? Thanks. If so what to.
 
EclipseTrbo420A said:
Whats this continuity? and also I have a safc so could I adjust my tps off of that ? Thanks. If so what to.

it's the point where the resistance changes somewhat linearly while rotating the TPS and then suddenly jumps to infinity (or something like that). I have a multimeter from Sears that has a setting where it beeps when it goes from continuity to dis-continuity.

I don't think you can use the readings on the AFC to adjust the TPS. I got frustrated trying to adjust it using the procedure outlined above, and just rotated it until I got a 0% reading on the Pocketlogger for the TPS.
 
THanks for the info Ill try that tomorrow. I have some super meter here that has like 20 setting so is that in OHMS? of what? I just want this to work right already so I can buy my eprom and dsmlink. Thanks for the help guys.

edit... what pins do i test 1 and 3 >? thanks.
 
put it in kiloohms and yes, you do need to test pins 1-3 (1 being counted as the passengerside most pin). There is also a way to test the TPS via voltage on the SAFC/logger, but I've done it that numerous times to no avail. The FSM states that your TPS is OK (in working order) anywhere from .4V to .9V, but does not specify at what voltage your TPS is supposed to be at.
 
blcknspo0ln said:
put it in kiloohms and yes, you do need to test pins 1-3 (1 being counted as the passengerside most pin). There is also a way to test the TPS via voltage on the SAFC/logger, but I've done it that numerous times to no avail. The FSM states that your TPS is OK (in working order) anywhere from .4V to .9V, but does not specify at what voltage your TPS is supposed to be at.

That seems simple enough, just get those 2 pins and then rotate it untill it jumps to some high number then bring it back to the continuity...I want right in the center of continuity right? This will all be done over the next few days, work is getting in the way now LOL
 
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