16g installation

[erald01]

got the evo3 16g with the manifold o2 housing and a bunch of other things that are needed for this little project. i was wondering from previous experience can u guys tell me how long does it usually take for the installation? everything i got is legit no ebay crap so they should all fit. i drive my car daily so i cant afford to leave it in the garage for too long thats y.

 

[gsxeclipse97]

you are going to need a ss oil like and it shouldn't take more than 10 if you get everything done with no problems. also you will need to modify the return line to fit the new housing. and gaskets

 

[bjw24]

Actually if you prep for it, it takes only a few hours. Just make sure to use some PB Blaster on your manifold bolts maybe a day or 2 before you decide to do it.. Make sure your SS braided line is atleast 24" long unless you plan on using half of the stock oil line. I would make sure it's long enough anyways so you don't have to use the half of the stock line because it's a bi*** to get apart and it's just easier to say the hell with it. Be sure to bolt everything back together before you drop it back in also... I put everything back in but left my o2 housing out because I was porting it and thought I could put it on after I bolted the manifold/turbo on... not happening.. good luck let us know what happens..

 

[thekellbeast]

I can pull a turbo in an afternoon, and put it all back together in about the same time. There's some little BS that you're going to run into, so make sure you have all of your crush washers, oil drain gaskets, everything. I got my oil line from Forced Performance, and it's the right one for a Mitsu turbo on a 2g.

Drain coolant or let it poor out when you disconnect water lines to turbo.
Drain oil or let it poor out when you disconnect oil drain lines to turbo.
Stock oil feed line will probably be siezed so cut it.
Remove fitting in oil filter housing.
Remove downpipe. (you don't need to remove the DP really, just unbolt the flange to the O2 housing. You'll have a lot more clearance to drop the turbo out the bottom if you do though)
Remove intake piping.
Remove 4 bolts holding turbo to manifold.

Now you're left with a bare manifold. I've never pulled mine, but I can bet you're going to run into tons of siezed up nuts on the studs. Heat them until they're cherry red with an Oxy-Acetylene or Oxy-Mapp torch, then wrench on them.

For the reverse - bolt the O2 housing to the turbo before you install it. It will be WAY easier this way. Bolt on the Oxygen sensor too, and the housing to downpipe studs if they're not in already. I just saw you have a 2g. I've never had to deal with a J-pipe.

The main reason that stuff like this ends up being a pain in the ass is rusted/siezed up bolts, and not having the right fittings/gaskets/couplers to make it work in one day. If you have everything, there's no reason you can't start it on a saturday morning and have it finished in time to go out that night.

 

[erald01]

I can pull a turbo in an afternoon, and put it all back together in about the same time. There's some little BS that you're going to run into, so make sure you have all of your crush washers, oil drain gaskets, everything. I got my oil line from Forced Performance, and it's the right one for a Mitsu turbo on a 2g.

Drain coolant or let it poor out when you disconnect water lines to turbo.
Drain oil or let it poor out when you disconnect oil drain lines to turbo.
Stock oil feed line will probably be siezed so cut it.
Remove fitting in oil filter housing.
Remove downpipe. (you don't need to remove the DP really, just unbolt the flange to the O2 housing. You'll have a lot more clearance to drop the turbo out the bottom if you do though)
Remove intake piping.
Remove 4 bolts holding turbo to manifold.

Now you're left with a bare manifold. I've never pulled mine, but I can bet you're going to run into tons of siezed up nuts on the studs. Heat them until they're cherry red with an Oxy-Acetylene or Oxy-Mapp torch, then wrench on them.

For the reverse - bolt the O2 housing to the turbo before you install it. It will be WAY easier this way. Bolt on the Oxygen sensor too, and the housing to downpipe studs if they're not in already. I just saw you have a 2g. I've never had to deal with a J-pipe.

The main reason that stuff like this ends up being a pain in the ass is rusted/siezed up bolts, and not having the right fittings/gaskets/couplers to make it work in one day. If you have everything, there's no reason you can't start it on a saturday morning and have it finished in time to go out that night.

it seems like the oil line might be the problem, but the one i got seems pretty damn long and i got it from buschur racing with the whole kit so i hope its long enough

 

[JDMHVN]

I did my FP 18G in a couple hours with new manifold and O2 housing... It bolts up exactly like a 16G only I couldnt re-use my water lines like they said I could. For me the hardest part was getting my O2 housing off... Be prepared to have some kind of breaker bar or something for those nuts... And PB blaster the S^$* out of them.

 

[erald01]

I did my FP 18G in a couple hours with new manifold and O2 housing... It bolts up exactly like a 16G only I couldnt re-use my water lines like they said I could. For me the hardest part was getting my O2 housing off... Be prepared to have some kind of breaker bar or something for those nuts... And PB blaster the S^$* out of them.

yeah i think it will take me at least the weekend cause i have other stuff lined up too like the fuel pump, the regulator, the fmic.

 

[JDMHVN]

yeah i think it will take me at least the weekend cause i have other stuff lined up too like the fuel pump, the regulator, the fmic

Yeah its definitely better to just take your time and make sure you've got everything right. It's the little things like making sure you don't have any boost leaks and stuff... O also make sure you use yellow Teflon tape on all your fitting threads. That's something thats often overlooked and often leads to oil leaks which can be catastrophic for your turbo.