#1 Piston TDC with head on?

[Egushu]

I installed timing belt via v-faq. Put all new parts in, including auto tensioner. When I back off special tool tensioner raises a little. From the v-faq, my understanding is that it isn't supposed to move. Is this actually my misunderstanding? The belt seems somewhat loose, so I moved the idler (i think) pulley twice and applied different pressure both times before tightening. Same results. I rotated crankshaft one full time. Belt stayed on fine. I rotated it back and all timing marks were still aligned. Does it sound like the belt is installed correctly?

My main question:
When I installed my new head I didn't make sure that the no 1 piston was at tdc. How do I make sure it's at tdc with the head on? Also, I'm thinking I will have to take the belt off and reinstall it after setting to tdc--right or wrong?

Thanks

 

[steve]

Then you line up the crank and cam timing marks your setting cyl 1 to TDC. The only thing to can have wrong when the marks align is the phasing of the balance shafts, which is why the VFAQ goes into detail on how to check it.

The critical adjustment for the belt is setting the preload tension using the tensioner pulley assembly. I don't leave the threaded tool in for making that setting. I don't have any problem with leaving the pin in the autotensioner until after you have preloaded the pulley. If the pin moves easily in the autotensioner your pretty close to dead on with the preload. If it doesn't you should check to make sure the tensioner arm isn't worn or you have something else wrong before pulling the pin.

I only use the threaded tool for removing the belt (not really needed) and for slowly compressing an autotensioner that you messed up on vs putting it in a vise.

Steve

 

[Egushu]

Then you line up the crank and cam timing marks your setting cyl 1 to TDC. The only thing to can have wrong when the marks align is the phasing of the balance shafts, which is why the VFAQ goes into detail on how to check it.

The critical adjustment for the belt is setting the preload tension using the tensioner pulley assembly. I don't leave the threaded tool in for making that setting. I don't have any problem with leaving the pin in the autotensioner until after you have preloaded the pulley. If the pin moves easily in the autotensioner your pretty close to dead on with the preload. If it doesn't you should check to make sure the tensioner arm isn't worn or you have something else wrong before pulling the pin.

I only use the threaded tool for removing the belt (not really needed) and for slowly compressing an autotensioner that you messed up on vs putting it in a vise.

Steve

Oh okay, so I already set it at TDC when I aligned the marks. I followed the oil pump pulley thing v-faq talks about to check the balance shafts.

I orignally installed the auto tensioner with the pin in, but whenever I compressed it I could not get the grenade pin out no matter how much I compressed or uncompressed it, so I took it out, pulled the pin out, then reinstalled it using the .125 or whatever drill bit technique. I pushed up on the idler pulley and tightened, then backed off the special tool and the drill bit fell out as the tensioner arm slowly lifted maybe like an 1/8th of an inch, so not that much.

So is everything okay based on my posts here to start my car and have it running fine?

 

[BUCK]

- My 2 cents on Tension Setting - latest revision.

- Set Sprockets & Balance Shafts per VFAQ - EXCEPT....

-May be necessary to BIAS = Mis-Time Exhaust Cam Sprocket ONE Tooth Clockwise - Belt Tensioning process will roll it back into time.

-Don't forget to apply Soft Loctite or RTV to Tensioner Fasteners & apply Final Torque.

-Run ALLTHREAD Tool in until Tensioner Arm Bottoms against Tensioner Body.

-Basically you preload the Eccentric Tension Pulley enough to achieve the correct Gap between Tension Arm & Tensioner Body - So...

-PRE-LOAD the Eccentric Tension Pulley & snug Pulley Bolt (I used soft Loctite on this Bolt too) - My favorite Tool to apply the Load on the Pulley is a Square Shanked Screwdriver that lays on one of the Bolt Heads nicely for leverage.

-Back off ALLTHREAD TOOL a few Turns letting the Tensioner Tension the T/Belt.

-Put Crank at TDC & check Belt Timing Marks - This is where you may see that you have to regroup on initial Timing Belt installation & Bias the Belt as I said at First.

- This is a good time to Spin Crank 6 Turns so Timing Belt can take it's initial SEAT in Sprocket Grooves.

-Check Tension setting with Grenade Pin.

-If gap is too large you have UNDER TENSIONED BELT.

- Don't forget you have ALLTHREAD tool is there to help you hold what Tension you've got SO RUN IT BACK IN TILL IT TOUCHES.

-IF UNDERTENSIONED put MORE LOAD under Tensioner Pulley with long Screwdriver & SIMULTANEOUSLY loosen Pulley Bolt, putting more Tension on Belt & Snug up Pulley Bolt while applying Load.

- Now DON'T forget to back Allthread Toll off a few turns so Tensioner can apply Tension.

- Check Tension setting with Grenade Pin.

- If Pin checks Sat apply Final Torque to Tension Pulley Bolt & RECHECK TENSION SETTING .

- If Gap is too small you have OVER-TENSIONED Belt - Back off Tension Pulley Pre-Load a little.

- Install just enuff Belts to run Water Pump - attach Battery charger & run Motor with NO Timing Covers.

-Immediately when you get it running Reset Base Timing & Idle as it comes up to Full Running Temp - Start off with CAS at middle of adjustment - Check for Coolant Leaks - Check your new Water Pump & Water Pump O Ring, etc, etc...

- After a good hot idle or 2 re-check Tension with Grenade Pin & Button up Covers if all is SAT - Expect to see one good stretch as Belt heats up & sets in & one good re-setting after initial idle.

I pushed up on the idler pulley and tightened, then backed off the special tool and the drill bit fell out as the tensioner arm slowly lifted maybe like an 1/8th of an inch, so not that much.

So is everything okay based on my posts here to start my car and have it running fine?

NO - about 1/8 is WAY out of Spec & NO everything is not OK when that is Out of Spec.