This is the Build Thread for 93 TSI. Reply below.

Slowly getting it to where I want it. Next year suspension and hopefully get to making the body better. I believe The turbo is maxed out but its fun none the less

had to fix yet another relay for the fuel pump. anyone got a good brand for hardwiring rather than spade connectors or soldering to the relay?

Not sure if this is what you’re going for considering it’s still some type of spade terminal in the connector, but Grote offers some pigtails for different relays.

heck yeah! they have a 12g pigtail kit and it says they have a distributor down the road from me! Thanks!

Dropped the rear subframe to install some fiba Inserts, New wheel bearings, toe eliminators, and clean up the trailing arms. I noticed that 1 of the rear diff threads is stripped where it bolts to the mustache bar.
Has anyone ever Helicoiled this or should I have it drilled and tapped the next size up? Any feedback is appreciated
On the bright side the rear sub looks super clean.

Anthony Hornback said:

Dropped the rear subframe to install some fiba Inserts, New wheel bearings, toe eliminators, and clean up the trailing arms. I noticed that 1 of the rear diff threads is stripped where it bolts to the mustache bar.
Has anyone ever Helicoiled this or should I have it drilled and tapped the next size up? Any feedback is appreciated
On the bright side the rear sub looks super clean.

Click to expand...

I am in the exact same boat, just tore everything apart and both the bolts on the mustache bar came out with the threads and all. I am going to step up a size and cross my fingers.

Jooltz said:

I am in the exact same boat, just tore everything apart and both the bolts on the mustache bar came out with the threads and all. I am going to step up a size and cross my fingers.

Click to expand...

I think thats what Im going to have done as well. I dont want to have to drill out the mustache bar as well though

Subframe coated, Fiba inserts arrived, D2 installed

Dropped a bolt in my timing cover so I had to remove that, Noticed there was some oil in the fresh cover. What is the most likely place to be leaking? All new seals and gaskets last yeah, but kept the same plug for my bs delete.

Look for obvious spots. Nicked one of the seals etc. You did ALL of them? Beyond that id say investigate crankcase pressure, pcv system etc.

Yeah all new oem seals and gaskets but didn’t change the bs plug. Isn’t there something about a bolt that leaks after bs delete?

Anthony Hornback said:

Yeah all new oem seals and gaskets but didn’t change the bs plug. Isn’t there something about a bolt that leaks after bs delete?

Click to expand...

Sort of. There is no seal behind the balance shaft tensioner.

I would hope this is my issue. Whats best practice for sealing? I did place a little rtv on the bolt when I installed it

With balance shafts removed, that is the best practice for sealing the tensioner pulley hole.

My concern at this point is if it is leaking from that hole, it means that the front case gasket may be toast. The balance shaft tensioner pulley bolt hole of indicated the picture below.



The only way for oil to leak out through that hole is seeping past the gasket that should be sealing on the surrounding face from one of the galleries on either side of that hole.

RTV may be able to seal it up externally, it’s obviously worth a try before going the route of addressing a front case gasket leak.

Makes sense to me, terrible. If gasket is toasted that sucks for being 1 year mold and maybe 4k miles

Not that it helps at all, but I know the feeling!

It happens though. haha just another day in the life

Got the entire rear end all refreshed! Rebuilt calipers from Josh, Fiba sub inserts, stoptech rotors and pads and D2’s. Hoping for alignment next Saturday

External cooler added. I was getting pretty warm in 3rd gear pulls with the water cooled ofh. What a nightmare this was. The housing I got didnt have a relief spring in it, and I didnt notice it. Had to pull the ofh and found it. Put it back on and had no oil pressure still. Manual primed it and pressure came back but the housing had a hairline crack at the oil sending unit. Had to tear it down and swap to another air cooled OFH, luckily a good guy in town had one from his GVR4 that he was nice enough to donate. What was a day upgrade took 3 weeks to sort out

Cooler turned out to be a great addition . Pulls in 90* weather went from 220* down to 212* and I was able to get to 7k before it hit 212* Car is running clean at E63, 25psi and pulling 50lb/min

Picked up a New still in bubble wrap, Apexi N1 in a local parts horde. It was free!! The coating is still crisp on the piping. Cant wait to get this installed next week. I will post sound clips with the current Megan turbo back and the Apexi from the Megan mid pipe back

So I have AEM series x and a boost gauge. I’m ordering a glow shift oil pressure gauge soon, what other gauge would y’all recommend? I would like at least one more to fill the dual pod in the air duct.

Also would the 100psi be good enough or do 150 for oil pressure?

Thanks in advance

Anthony Hornback said:

So I have AEM series x and a boost gauge. I’m ordering a glow shift oil pressure gauge soon, what other gauge would y’all recommend? I would like at least one more to fill the dual pod in the air duct.

Click to expand...

Depends on what youre most paranoid about ... coolant temp, oil temp, fuel pressure or voltage.

SixBolt_16G said:

Depends on what youre most paranoid about ... coolant temp, oil temp, fuel pressure or voltage.

Click to expand...

I have been thinking of fuel pressure, and wiring it into link. would be nice to monitor during boost
Is glowshift good enough for oil and fuel? I have never used them for anything