This is the Build Thread for 1998 Eclipse GS-T. Reply below.

Project V2: 1998 Eclipse GST Automatic — Street Sleeper Revival

Hey everyone! Figured it’s finally time to document the build on my 2G DSM — a 1998 Eclipse GST automatic that’s evolved into a full-on street sleeper project. I’ll be updating this thread regularly with progress, plans, and eventually power goals.

Starting Point

I picked this car up recently from my uncle. It had some solid mods already done but had been sitting for years. The foundation was there — but it needed love.

Phase 1: Transmission & Baseline Maintenance

The first major step was rebuilding the auto transmission, done by Frank Gonzalez, a well-known name in the DSM community. He went through the trans to ensure it would hold future power goals and drive reliably. Smooth shifts now, no slipping — trans is solid. Also got a larger external transmission cooler installed right away to prep for future heat.

Current Setup:

• Evo III 16G turbo
• Walbro 255 fuel pump
• 650cc injectors
• 3” catless turbo-back exhaust w/ HKS Hi-Power muffler
• Chipped/tuned ECU (stock-ish boost, possibly 14–15 PSI)
• Refreshed cylinder head w/ Evo 8 valves and lifters
• Timing belt was last done ~2019–2021 ish (next on the to-do list)
• Full interior intact, factory A/C, and BBS Evo 9 wheels

In Progress / Next Up:

• Fix power steering (currently non-functional)
• Timing belt & water pump service (OEM or Tomei undecided)
• Non-cruise throttle cable swap
• Boost gauge, wideband, tuning refinements
• Mild weight reduction (spare removal, bucket seats, CF parts, etc.)

Goals:
I’m aiming for a 350 WHP build without opening the motor (for now). Keeping it clean, streetable, and ready to surprise some modern cars from a roll..

Appreciate any input from other DSM guys, especially auto guys — feel free to drop advice, tips, or just roast me if needed

Here is a before and after of clear side markers & LED switch backs. I like how they came out & they’re way brighter too.

Out with the old…


And in with the… kinda new

This car is pretty quick. big 16G (1 Bar I believe) and tune. there are other small things done to the car but Stock-ish. I’m not surprised that it took down my other car. I know it was faster but even giving my other car (tuned fusion ecoboost) the jump it didn’t take long for that 16G to take over

- 3” catless
- HKS super drager 4” inlet exhaust & 5” outlet .
Here’s what it sounds like

part 2 of HKS super drager 4G63

Decided to give something a try..


I like it .. will probably coat one more time with a wider angle nozzle to cover streaks.



Maybe I’ll spray the rear cloth seats black as well. Not sure yet.

Going to sand down the lettering to bring out that aluminum shine and respray the heat shield

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This thing is cooked.

well here is the before

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She ain’t winning no beauty contest.. but this is the after


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Process of cleaning the heat shield .
Way better than before.

Well hopefully now my transmission return like should not be leaking anymore.. old return like decided it was time to rip and leak all over the damn engine bay.


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Old


You can see the tear ^^

Picked up a few random DSM parts on a FB marketplace find and I got a injen intake for practically dirt cheap. Not sure if my butt dyno is accurate but I think it picks up a littler quicker than stock. Nothing drastic but noticeable.
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Drastic events happened after a test drive from the photo above you can see the splashes of coolant on the heat shield and that’s because the damn radiator hose popped right off!! It’s my fault because I did see it loose and I didn’t slip it all the way back in. My plan is to get new clamps and if it happens again I will just get a new radiator hose.

Shortly after that happened my dash/headlights completely turned off and would not turn on even if I turned on the switch. That little icon on the right popped up and I believe it’s bad charging/bad battery? I ended up getting a new battery so tomorrow I will install new battery and hopefully it goes back to normal…

Stizzydrew said:

Shortly after that happened my dash/headlights completely turned off and would not turn on even if I turned on the switch. That little icon on the right popped up and I believe it’s bad charging/bad battery? I ended up getting a new battery so tomorrow I will install new battery and hopefully it goes back to normal…

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That light on the right side of the dash is a low coolant level light, not a battery light. The battery light looks like a box with a + and - in it. I Can't find a picture for ya right now

Stizzydrew said:

Great so after getting a new battery, the battery isn’t problem. The alternator is the problem. I was informed by another DSM user, not only that my cooling hose blew off the radiator through the coolant everywhere luckily I had a jug of coolant, so I filled it up with coolant, drove it back home and haven’t driven it since, this was yesterday by the way. Now. today I installed a new battery to hopefully see and find that the alternator wasn’t the problem as I was hoping.. The alternator is a problem not only that my dash , my interior lights, headlightsand my bumper side markers. Don’t turn on no more. After looking under the hood fuses, my 40A headlight fuse blew. I don’t even know if they make these fuses anymore.To top it all off with the icing my coolant sensor is not reading no more.

WTF? I heard owning a DSM is awful when things start to break but I did not think it is to this extent of a domino effect. Maybe I’m just having bad luck right now or maybe this is just a normal thing for a DSM. But damn I miss driving the car already.

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That's how the DSM life goes man. I've felt this way before too. I believe they sell our fusible links at auto parts stores. I got my Radiator fan fusible link from Advance Auto, I think it was a pink one. I would take your old fusible link to the store with you so you can compare which fusible links work.

If you want, and if you have the tools, you could test your alternator charging with a multimeter. The coolant could've made its way into the case of the alternator and shorted something. If it was blowing out the fuses, it may be overcharging. I may have this wrong (so be sure to research this before doing what I suggest) but you put the positive lead for the multimeter onto the lug on the alternator (it's behind the orange rubber cover) and have the negative lead going to the casing of the alternator and whatever the value is, is what your alternator is outputting to the fuse box through the Alt fuse, and eventually to the battery. Make sure you have the multimeter on the correct setting.

Good luck and keep your head up!

kyler021 said:

That's how the DSM life goes man. I've felt this way before too. I believe they sell our fusible links at auto parts stores. I got my Radiator fan fusible link from Advance Auto, I think it was a pink one. I would take your old fusible link to the store with you so you can compare which fusible links work.

If you want, and if you have the tools, you could test your alternator charging with a multimeter. The coolant could've made its way into the case of the alternator and shorted something. If it was blowing out the fuses, it may be overcharging. I may have this wrong (so be sure to research this before doing what I suggest) but you put the positive lead for the multimeter onto the lug on the alternator (it's behind the orange rubber cover) and have the negative lead going to the casing of the alternator and whatever the value is, is what your alternator is outputting to the fuse box through the Alt fuse, and eventually to the battery. Make sure you have the multimeter on the correct setting.

Good luck and keep your head up!

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Thanks bro I’ll just get the alternator replaced anyways. Volts are 11.5-12.2 at idle. As for the coolant sensor I will have that checked out and replaced when timing + water pump is done. I found the headlamp 40amp fuse so I will start there and if it works then atleast (I’m hoping) the splash of coolant didn’t cook or fry more of my fuses.

Hoping once I replace the alternator volts are back at 12.5- 13.5 volts like they were before. I got new clamps for the radiator hose and it was kinda loose I was able to remove it WITH the clamp on so now it’s tight thanks for the kind words brother I definitely was feeling a bit down since this is the first part of experience of 4G63 problems for me.

Unfortunately I found out the alternator is bad.

I conducted a small test where i disconnected the B+ Terminal on the alternator and had the battery plugged in, after I replugged the 40AMP fusible headlamp link and it did not pop.

Keeping the fusible link installed and reconnecting the b+ terminal wire on the alternator (always remember to disconnect - battery before removing and plugging in wires) instantly the link blew. I believe that is an indication that the alternator is bad and causing a short? I’m not sure why or what caused it but I will be replacing the alternator and we will see if that was the cause. I hope that’s the case because it’s be simple enough to get it fixed. I hate electrical.

If anyone had this similar problem please do tell and input.
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Stizzydrew said:

Unfortunately I found out the alternator is bad.

I conducted a small test where i disconnected the B+ Terminal on the alternator and had the battery plugged in, after I replugged the 40AMP fusible headlamp link and it did not pop.

Keeping the fusible link installed and reconnecting the b+ terminal wire on the alternator (always remember to disconnect - battery before removing and plugging in wires) instantly the link blew. I believe that is an indication that the alternator is bad and causing a short? I’m not sure why or what caused it but I will be replacing the alternator and we will see if that was the cause. I hope that’s the case because it’s be simple enough to get it fixed. I hate electrical.

If anyone had this similar problem please do tell and input.
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View attachment 774451View attachment 774452

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While I haven't had this exact issue I feel your pain about alternator's.

I've spent about $1200 in MCR Saturn alternators in the last 2 years due to leaking power steering lines, blowing out the dipstick, overcharging / over spinning.

Definitely 150% make sure your power steering pump and lines aren't leaking. And if they are fix them right away or it'll likely kill your next alternator.

Good news with the dsm with upgrades

We had Frank (AWDMONSTER) help out on some maintenance for timing belt job on the DSM with an Evo 8/9 timing belt and water pump

Also helped out on installing this gorgeous Evo 8 steering wheel that I wrapped. I Had to order a custom steering wheel conversion from “Dudes custom parts” and I snagged a EGR plate delete form him while I was at it. I also have a carbon fiber air bag delete plate so it’ll look complete soon.

The second part to this, as you can see we installed motion race works buttons that is connected and wired up to a Forced4box.
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Frank installed a shift kit as well from IPT Performance transmission “Translab Shift Kit TL 175 HP (High Performance Type)”.

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We installed a mishimito line-X radiator along with PROFORM (Part Number: PRO-67038) Slim fans 12” along with some ducking. Temps are steady around 195-200. Will improve on more ducking near the radiator later on.

As you can see it something temporary that is efficient for now. We will work on something more efficient down the road.
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Next up is that amazing Corn juice tune and Speed density

Speed density is wired up ready to go

I ordered a STM Speed density intake kit along with a DEI Turbo blanket for my 16g to help reduce under hood temps.
Fuel pump Walbro 255 and a rewire kit.

I just realized you're that one guy on Instagram, I've been commenting on your posts there for a while now

That evo steering wheel looks sick! I need one for mine

kyler021 said:

I just realized you're that one guy on Instagram, I've been commenting on your posts there for a while now

That evo steering wheel looks sick! I need one for mine

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Yo!!! Thanks for the support brother