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2G F11 fuse keeps popping

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TheRock1209

Probationary Member
5
1
Nov 10, 2024
DES PLAINES, Illinois
Hello everyone. The other day when I was driving, suddenly my head unit, speakers, and interior lights + switches lost their power. Turns out, my F11 10A fuse in the engine bay fuse box popped.

Went to replace it, and once I connected the battery, popped right away. Frustrated me a bit. I got a manual resettable fuse to test so I don’t run through a bunch of fuses. I was slowly diagnosing part by part that’s connected to that fuse. I started with disconnecting my head unit, wasn’t the issue, fuse still popped. Kept it disconnected and then disconnected my driver side door switch, fuse pops. Then, I disconnected my passenger side door switch, and what do you know, the fuse stops popping on the resettable fuse.

The door open icon came on in the car, and also when I would put my key in the ACC and ON position, it would beep again. I put everything back together, and go to put in a regular 10A fuse, and it pops. Makes me confused. When I initially tested and it worked with the resettable fuse, I had the 10A door lock fuse (located under the dash) out of its socket. Maybe door locks are causing it to blow? I’d think I fixed the short, since it WAS working, but maybe there’s more to it.

Also to note: I checked wires behind the fuse box, nothing torn or ripped.

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Your interior lights, even if they tried couldn’t pull 10A through a fuse, so it is more likely your power door locks drawing the high amperage.

It’s not uncommon to have a power latch go bad in our cars. A bad driver’s door power latch was the cause of a huge phantom electrical draw for us several years ago.

After you pull the fuse for the door locks, you’ll have to unplug each door until you determine which one is drawing the power.
 
Your interior lights, even if they tried couldn’t pull 10A through a fuse, so it is more likely your power door locks drawing the high amperage.

It’s not uncommon to have a power latch go bad in our cars. A bad driver’s door power latch was the cause of a huge phantom electrical draw for us several years ago.

After you pull the fuse for the door locks, you’ll have to unplug each door until you determine which one is drawing the power.
That helps a lot I appreciate it. If I replace the door lock actuators, would that fix it?
 
That helps a lot I appreciate it. If I replace the door lock actuators, would that fix it?

First verify that one (or both?) are the cause of the circuit popping by disconnecting them both, and then reconnecting one at a time to check for the short.

You may have to cycle the power lock a couple times and open and shut the door a couple times to be sure you put the actuator through its paces, just in case it’s stuck in an operative mode when you plug it back in.

Kannapolis Auto Parts is where we got our replacement, but there are others on here that can help you source an actuator when you know which one it is.
 
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