Garrett & Holset Turbo Users - Your Oil Drain May Be Too Small!

[Boostdriven]

I didn't know holset turbos needed a restrictor
I've ran several different holset turbos on my car for years with #6 feed line and oil pressure at 100+ psi above 5k rpms, I have not over oiled a single holset. Currently I have HX52 fed with the same #6 line, been to the dyno twice and drive the car on regular basis, maybe I have been fortunate to end up with some special edition holsets

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I dont use a restrictor -4 feed ofh fed no BS, oil pump ported block oil port mod. Perfect holset specs minus the ocasional 90 psi at 7k rpm or so

 

[WES_393]

From the Holset repair manual:

13. Oil pressure of 150 kPa (20psi) must show at the turbocharger oil inlet within 3 - 4 seconds of engine firing to prevent damage to turbocharger bearing system. A flexible supply pipe is recommended.
14. The minimum oil pressure when the engine is on load must be 210 kPa (30psi). Maximum
permissible operating pressure is 500 kPa (72psi) although 600 kPa (88psi) is permitted during cold start up. Under idling conditions pressure should not fall below 70 kPa (10 lbf/in2).

It's also important to note Holset's guidelines on drain size, crank case pressure, flow volume, and oil content which can all be found on page 1:5 of the repair manual. Stick to those guidelines and you'll never have an oiling issue. If that requires running a certain size restrictor based on your oil pressure, then by all means. If you need help figuring out what size restrictor to use once you've documented your oil pressure, just ask.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Not sure why you bolded maximum when it was a seperate sentence and you cut it off before the rest of the sentence said the max oi pressure i have it in my install writeup.

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

Measure your actual pressures, end of story. Because your "buddies girlfriends hamsters cousin got away with it" doesn't mean shit even if your setups are identical.

My field manual corroborates what WES shared.

Its cheap and easy.. and if you decide not to monitor feed pressure all the time you can move the sensor to other points in the system.

Invaluable data.

 

[WES_393]

Its cheap and easy.. and if you decide not to monitor feed pressure all the time you can move the sensor to other points in the system.

Invaluable data.

I use one of these nifty pieces:

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It costs a whopping $9 from Jegs and allows me to install my current oil pressure sender right after the filter/restrictor.

 

[907dsm]

One of the best mods I did was watching that oil pressure.

 

[okm12346]

Im getting smoke on first start up and then it stops. The oil feed is in order pressure wise. The oil return is made out of two 45 degree 12an fittings. The turbo is little bit tilted toward the engine. Other than that is a brand new turbo and the engine has less than 200 miles. The head was rebuilt so its not smoking from the valve seals. Do you think any of this could be causing the smoking?

Here's my 8 blade hx35W outlet

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the T6 adapter flange with 3/4 NPT threads

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First restriction is the 12an to 3/4 fitting - it's already 2mm less.

Then the same fitting on the 12an side, the ID lessens even more to 15mm

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And then the push locks - the OD of the 12an is indeed 19+mm, but what good does that do,

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when the ID is 15mm

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[forcefed86]

Im getting smoke on first start up and then it stops. The oil feed is in order pressure wise. The oil return is made out of two 45 degree 12an fittings. The turbo is little bit tilted toward the engine. Other than that is a brand new turbo and the engine has less than 200 miles. The head was rebuilt so its not smoking from the valve seals. Do you think any of this could be causing the smoking?

Here's my 8 blade hx35W outlet

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the T6 adapter flange with 3/4 NPT threads

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

First restriction is the 12an to 3/4 fitting - it's already 2mm less.

Then the same fitting on the 12an side, the ID lessens even more to 15mm

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

And then the push locks - the OD of the 12an is indeed 19+mm, but what good does that do,

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when the ID is 15mm

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The service manual says 19mm. If you add extra bends etc and use 15mm fittings it isn't going to drain properly. Just because some people get away with it... does not make it correct. I ran 3/4 ID copper plumbing fittings. Works great.

That said... smoke on first start-up that clears is usually valve stem seals. May want to look into that.

 

[JusMX141]

That said... smoke on first start-up that clears is usually valve stem seals. May want to look into that.

+1. The turbo's center housing would completely drain while the engine is off- by design, it's basically impossible for the turbo to cause smoke at first start-up.

 

[c2ypt1c]

+1. The turbo's center housing would completely drain while the engine is off- by design, it's basically impossible for the turbo to cause smoke at first start-up.

Even if oil is pushing past the turbine seal? Correct me if I'm wrong, but the exhaust gases could be hot enough to burn the oil.

I guess the question is, could the higher oil pressure on a cold start allow oil to get past the seal, while not allowing it once it warms up (maybe the seal expands + lower oil pressure)? Or is it the case where, if oil is pushing past the turbine seal, then the seal is junk and it will continue to leak regardless of pressure/heat?

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

I will guarantee you that the exhaust gasses are not hot enough to ignite the oil on startup. Source: I monitor Pre and Post turbine EGTs.

Valve stem seals are the first culprit in this scenario.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

It's good to see people using my writeup using the t6 to -12 setup for the drains!

Also if people aren't reading my writeup which can be found here:http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...ercooler/443321-holset-hx40-installation.html

The cold start pressures are a higher allowed pressure as seen in the writeup.

 

[JusMX141]

Even if oil is pushing past the turbine seal? Correct me if I'm wrong, but the exhaust gases could be hot enough to burn the oil.

How would it smoke only on startup and not during operation when oil pressure is much, much higher?

 

[c2ypt1c]

How would it smoke only on startup and not during operation when oil pressure is much, much higher?

Thermal expansion of the sealing ring? Probably not, but you said it was basically impossible to smoke on a cold start, which made me wonder if this were true even if the seal was blown...

I was also thinking that maybe he didn't notice it smoke during wot or he thought he was just running rich.

 

[okm12346]

it doesnt smoke as soon as the engine turns over, it takes a minute or two before it smokes.

The head was rebuilt and it has brand new viton valve seals and brand new valves.

On a side note, I looked in the rear view while another car was driving behind me with the head lights on tonight, and I noticed lots of smoke came out while the gauge was just going over 0psi. I did it again and smoke poured out again. That smoke wasnt visible in daytime. So im guessing the turbine seal is a toast.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

How cold is it outside? And what color is the smoke? Blue black or white? I'll bet you it's just white cause it's cold out.

 

[okm12346]

Its blueish smoke and my other galant is not doing that at all.

The temp was high 30 low 40.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

You call 30-40* high temp?

 

[okm12346]

Nah man, it was between high 30s and low 40s , you know (38-42 degrees)

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Still cold prime
Conditions for water evap in the pipes

 

[c2ypt1c]

Sounds like a blown turbine seal to me. It's blue smoke at initial startup and wot...who cares what temp it is outside?

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Well rebuild it and put it back on. If it still smokes it was t the turnine seal

Rebuild takes like an hour. A turnine seal replacement. Less cause you dont have to deal with those peaky bearing snap rings.

 

[okm12346]

I appreciate the help guys. Just ordered the seals and I'll post results. I'll also redo the drain .

 

[c2ypt1c]

I appreciate the help guys. Just ordered the seals and I'll post results. I'll also redo the drain .

Make sure you get genuine holset parts. Search on the holset site for a distributor near you and contact them.

http://www.cumminsturbotechnologies...l=olset Distributors in the USA&nodeValue=USA