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Complete Tune Up and Head Job Parts List

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mc_holla

15+ Year Contributor
52
0
Sep 22, 2003
Covington, Georgia
Okay. I bought my 98 RS with 120,000 miles and now im up to 165,000 miles. And just the other night, my PS belt flew off because it was so worn and I saw this as a sign to give my car a real tune up and not the simple tune up I planned on giving it. I am listing the parts I plan to change in this project and wanted to make sure I have everything covered. They are:

  • UDP - (AFX) - $156.00
  • Timing and Accessory Belts - (Dayco and Drive-Rite)
  • Timing Belt Tensioner - (Dealer or aftermarket?)
  • Water Pump and Gasket - (Dealer or aftermarket?)
  • Fuel Filter - (Dealer or aftermarket?)
  • Head Gasket Set - (Dealer or aftermarket?)
  • Valve Seals - (Dealer or aftermarket?)
  • Valve Guides - (Dealer or aftermarket?)
  • Spark plugs - (NGK v-power BKR5E-11)
  • Plug Wires - (MSD 8.5mm) - $47.00
  • Exhaust Maniflod - (Megan 4-1 Ceramic Headers)

Let me know if I missed anything that should also be done.Also, for the parts that have (Dealerr or Aftermarket?) besides them , could you let me know whether I should buy from the dealer and which parts can be bought from like Autozone or Napa.
 
  • Spark plugs - (NGK v-power BKR5E-11)
Youd be better off with Platinum or iridium plugs with v-power is useless
  • Plug Wires - (MSD 8.5mm)
Stick with stock
  • Exhaust Maniflod - (Megan 4-1 Ceramic Headers)
4-2-1 would better suit you

:talon:
 
esi-slowboy said:
  • Spark plugs - (NGK v-power BKR5E-11)
Youd be better off with Platinum or iridium plugs with v-power is useless
  • Plug Wires - (MSD 8.5mm)
Stick with stock
  • Exhaust Maniflod - (Megan 4-1 Ceramic Headers)
4-2-1 would better suit you

:talon:


I actuly have the Vpower as well as the MSD, and i think my car runs very smooth compaired to stock. so i would suggest them.. also, i have the SSautochrome 4 to 1 headers, and i love the responsiveness on the top end... so i also recommend the 4 to 1.. but do what you want.. not what we all say.. make that car your own.
 
SplitFire relentlessly advertised for years that their spark plugs were superior due to a V-shaped electrode. This magical elecrode supposedly delivered more horsepower and better fuel economy. Praise was so universal for the plugs that even skeptics like us were beginning to sway. Then the Federal Trade Commission came to SplitFire's party and peed in the punchbowl.
In Federal Trade Commission v. SplitFire, Inc., the FTC demanded that SplitFire quit making claims that their spark plugs improve fuel economy, horsepower or emissions, and further quit claiming that testimonials in favor of the spark plugs are typical results of using them. SplitFire agreed to this, which they could have avoided if they had a shred of evidence to show that the plugs do, in fact, work as advertised. We have the Complaint, the Agreement Containing Consent Order, and the Decision and Order.

Hot on the heels of the FTC action, there's this pitiful excuse of a class-action settlement called Singleton v. SplitFire Inc. If there was ever a posterboy for the right to opt out, this case is it.

So Alvin Singleton and Julie Massier, our representatives, decide that SplitFire plugs are defective and sue. They make it a class-action to "help" us. What do they settle for? Two free SplitFire spark plugs and the right to buy six more at 25% off. Great! Thanks a lot!! To make reparations for selling useless spark plugs, they're giving away useless spark plugs! Where's the justice here?

It's probably a good idea to opt out of this stupid settlement. With any luck, someone with bigger kahunas will come along and force a settlement with some teeth. Of course, as usual it doesn't hurt to be a lawyer -- the stipulation guarantees them $750,000 in expenses and gives them the right to pursue $2 million.

This settlement was filed with the court on 17 February 1998. It was made final on 19 June 1998 and the window to be recognized as a class member mercifully closed on 19 October 1998. We have the full text of the Stipulation of Settlement and Compromise.

cited from http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/legal/ :talon:
 
This thread kinda went off track a little a while back but thats okay. Now i've reached point where i will be basically doing the complete head job including machining, timing belt, waterpump etc. What i would like to know if from personal experience, which parts should i definently buy from the dealer over like napa or advanced auto parts?

I have already ordered the head gasket set from the dealer because i feel that is a very crucial part but the rest of the items i am not too sure about. Im a student working and paying my way through school with the fall semester coming up and would like to save $$$ where ever possible.

Thanks

Marlon
 
I can fall back on my parents if needed but i dont really have a range. Just trying to cut corners in places that wont come back to haunt me. The main things im unsure of whether to buy at dealer or advanced is like the water pump, and timing belt/tensioners.

The rest if the items are price so evenly that it really doesn't matter.
 
mc_holla said:
I can fall back on my parents if needed but i dont really have a range. Just trying to cut corners in places that wont come back to haunt me. The main things im unsure of whether to buy at dealer or advanced is like the water pump, and timing belt/tensioners.

The rest if the items are price so evenly that it really doesn't matter.

Ok, all important parts need to be replaced with OEM equipment only to save you the trouble of premature failure and alot of time. Things like an oil pump and water pump and timing belt are not things you just do for the fun of it, they are lots of work so when replacing these parts go oem only and do it right the first time.

at 165,000 miles i would say the oil pump and water pump from factory are excellent pieces and the quality speaks for itself.

ohh yeah valve seals might take some time too. ;)

:dsm: :dsm: :dsm:

sometimes the saying (u get what you pay for) is true. just do your research. I went with an aftermarket oil pump the first time thinking it would be fine its all mechanical. uh it failed LOL at 106 miles. funny thing is i replaced it with the same brand and everything LOL. meiling btw worked fine ever since, you never know what your going to get.
 
Your right, but you never do know either way. I will use discretion when deciding and hope for the best.

Thanks
 
Valve seals will require pulling the head off. I don't know if you want to get into that much of a hassle or not. If you can find a tool that will work you can do them by shooting compressed air into the spark plug hole, to keep the valve seated at the top if the head, but it's tricky, too much air will force the piston down relieving the pressure causing the valve to fall through, meaning head comes off.
 
Timing belt failed with car running, so head is coming off anyways. I bought the whole head set and will be replacing everything while im in there.
 
4UH8ERS said:
at 165,000 miles i would say the oil pump and water pump from factory are excellent pieces and the quality speaks for itself.

4UH8ERS,

I was at 165,000 when i started the thread. I am now at 205,000. Where is the oil pump. Should that be changed becasue head is off?
 
In order to replace it, you must remove all of the timing equipment. Since it will be off, and you've had timing problems you should go ahead and replace it since everything is coming off anyways.

It's a standard replacement on any T-belt job.
 
Take all of the timing components off, it's right there behind it all :thumb:

^ oil pump ^
 
Do you have an idea of how much the oil pump may run me?
 
Not sure if this has to be a dealer replaceable part but I would recommend a Melling oil pump if you're not going the dealer route. About $90 from CI plus s&h.
 
ok this is late but get the 4-2-1 header, I used to have a 4-1 and it felt like poo off the line, the 4-2-1 makes it feel a lot more torque like. I have the DC sports it was a little more but the design is really nice, also you might want to pick up valve cover gaskets, I know most peoples stock spark plug well gaskets are known to go bad.
 
Anyone know the dodge part numbers of any of these parts? And is okay to order, from Dodge or should I stick with just the mitsubishi dealer?
 
I found that Mitsubishi has actually stopped supplying many replacement parts for our cars.

Dodge/Chrysler dealerships, on the other hand, often have what I need in stock; or they can get it within one to two days.
 
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