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1G Clutch release fork play

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91lzer

Proven Member
65
18
Aug 22, 2022
Penticton, BC_Canada
Does this seem normal? Having issues with disengagement after master cylinder blew. There’s lots of play in the release for and I can see the bearing moving around in there
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Seems off to me. Your clutch fork should stop on the pressure plate right around the center of the opening.

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If the bearing isn't pulling off the pressure plate when you pull the fork end towards the slave, you lost your retainer and the trans has to come off.
The fork end should be centered or just towards the slave when the tob is resting against the pressure plate.
If it's past centerline, trans comes off and inspect the pressure plate as well as flywheel for step height. Shims, depending on clutch type, are a bandaid much like an extended pushrod.

I take it you're not asking why you can move the fork at all when there's no pushrod between it and the slave cylinder.
 
A pivot ball shim is only good if the flywheel has been machined several times or the fulcrum is worn. Helps bring the geometry of fork back to centerline. Otherwise a shim should be avoided.
 
If the bearing isn't pulling off the pressure plate when you pull the fork end towards the slave, you lost your retainer and the trans has to come off.
The fork end should be centered or just towards the slave when the tob is resting against the pressure plate.
If it's past centerline, trans comes off and inspect the pressure plate as well as flywheel for step height. Shims, depending on clutch type, are a bandaid much like an extended pushrod.

I take it you're not asking why you can move the fork at all when there's no pushrod between it and the slave cylinder.
Much help. TOB moves freely and it only rests on pressure plate when the fork is almost touching the bell housing opposite the slave. Should I replace the fork and pivot ball?

Seems off to me. Your clutch fork should stop on the pressure plate right around the center of the opening.

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Thanks for the reply, it stops in the pressure plate when it’s almost touching the bell housing opposite the slave.
 
Much help. TOB moves freely and it only rests on pressure plate when the fork is almost touching the bell housing opposite the slave. Should I replace the fork and pivot ball?
You might have a bent fork. If your TOB moves with the fork in both directions (your retainer clip is still intact) but only touches the PP when the fork is or very nearly is touching the bellhousing in the window, that's some messed up geometry. As @dwb says, time to pull the trans.
 
Much help. TOB moves freely and it only rests on pressure plate when the fork is almost touching the bell housing opposite the slave. Should I replace the fork and pivot ball?
That's a lot of play. Are you sure the trans bolts are all tight and all of them are there?
 
Well, finally got the motivation to pull the motor and trans again to diagnose the problems I’m having with clutch disengagement. Got a new fork and pivot ball. And I also found out that there is absolutely no retainer on the TOB. I’m going to install the new part’s tomorrow and retainer as well. Is there anything else I should check/ replace while I have the motor out. Flywheel step height?
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I assume you already replaced the pressure plate, clutch disk (make sure it's not backwards), TO bearing, and looked at the flywheel surface. Ya as long as you're in there measuring the flywheel step height would be prudent. Here is how the TO bearing retainer attaches.

I’ve always wondered what would happen if the retaining clip is installed upside down. Would it be like dividing by zero?
 
I assume you already replaced the pressure plate, clutch disk (make sure it's not backwards), TO bearing, and looked at the flywheel surface. Ya as long as you're in there measuring the flywheel step height would be prudent. Here is how the TO bearing retainer attaches.
Pressure plate is definitely on the correct way as I drove the car for a week with the new clutch and then experienced my issues. Do you think that I should put a small washer behind the pivot ball just in case?
 
You shouldn't put a washer behind pivot ball until you know you need one - otherwise the fork position may be off too far the other direction. Just after you bolt the tranny on, but before connecting anything else, check the fork position in the window (see post #2). Then you'll know whether you need a washer or not. Granted if you need one you'll have to remove the tranny again. But tell yourself now is the time, and that's way better than the clutch forever not working properly and being forced to remove it all again later after it's all together and you drive it and then find out the bad news.
 
You shouldn't put a washer behind pivot ball until you know you need one - otherwise the fork position may be off too far the other direction. Just after you bolt the tranny on, but before connecting anything else, check the fork position in the window (see post #2). Then you'll know whether you need a washer or not. Granted if you need one you'll have to remove the tranny again. But tell yourself now is the time, and that's way better than the clutch forever not working properly and being forced to remove it all again later after it's all together and you drive it and then find out the bad news.
Thanks man! Im going to bolt the tranny on tonight and will post an update
 
Pressure plate is definitely on the correct way as I drove the car for a week with the new clutch and then experienced my issues. Do you think that I should put a small washer behind the pivot ball just in case?
How did you drive for a week and then it's bad? That doesn't point to flywheel etc. To me it points to hydraulics or pedal assembly. Did you check that master wasn't locked/overadjusted? by pushing slave back in?
 
That’s what I was thinking. And how do I know if the master is overadjusted? But I don’t believe it was a hydraulic issue because the clutch release fork was touching the bell housing in the video I attached on first post. And I also didn’t have a retainer on the TOB so maybe it wasn’t sitting on the fork properly? But I got all the new parts in, including a retainer. The fork seems to be in the correct position now!
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