very tiny metal pieces in ATF fluid and sound when selecting reverse

[niles]

• after 6 years approximately half of the AT fluid was changed
  
  
• unfortunately I waited 11 years before I did a full ATF and ATF filter change:
  
  The fluid looked very dark red (not brown), with little tiny black spots (not solid), I think this was due to thermal breakdown of the oil.
  Smell was still okay, no metal pieces I noticed.
  The oil pan looked clean and the magnets weren't that dirty either.
  
  A few weeks later I did a second change and noticed, the ATF fluid, was dark (not as dark as first time) red again and doesn't look very clear.
  
  Could it be that some (non metal) deposits now solve in the fresh oil?
  Is there any chance that if I will change the ATF several times in short intervals all of this stuff solves and the ATF stays clear?
  
  
• Now, some months later, I changed again about 2 quarts just to see how it looks like.
  The first quart from the front oil pan: looks dark red and not very clear again.
  The second quart from the other drain plug: seems to be a bit clearer than the first quart.
  
  I let the quart ATF from the oil pan run over a black surface and observe it under neon light:
  there were some very very tiny shiny metal pieces in there, just big enough to see them.
  At least I guess they're metal because they're reflecting.
  Is this normal?
  
  The transmission runs and shifts fine, the only strange thing I noticed was that when I select the reverse the first time (especially after the car stands for more than 1 day) it often sounds hard and a bit loud.
  
  Something to worry about?

 

[Defiant]

I would have a shop that specializes in automatic transmissions give it the once-over, and have them adjust things to spec.

 

[niles]

The problem is, that this wouldn't be cheap. And a transmission shop (that is familiar with Mits. ATs) isn't that easy to find here too.
I guess, if I had my ATF changed at the dealer, nobody would have noticed any problems with the fluid nor an inattentive driver (a know a lot of them) would have noticed any problems with the reverse.
I think, I will keep a close look on the transmission and the AT fluid and if things get worse I will look for a shop.
In the past the car almost always got more problems after it was in a shop than before, so I'm very careful here now and try to fix stuff myself.

If anybody can answer my questions concerning the "not clear" fluid etc. I'd appreciate it.

 

[turbobird14]

alot of it is that when you are changing your fluid from just draining a pan, there is still alot of fluid left in the journals and passages that doesnt come out. there is a newer meathod of ATF fluid exchange that i know a few shops around here perform. when it changes the fluid you actually cycle the transmission through the gears to run new fluid all throughout the trans, so there is clean atf going through and dirty coming out. its a very nicely done process. I would never in my life take my car to get service or tires or anything from a sears auto center, but i know they have this kind of machine and its so easy to use even a toddler could swap youy fluid. so it would be hard for them to mess it up. hope that helps

 

[pdc]

I put a magnetic in-line filter in mine and will replace it with each trans fluid and filter change at 20k miles. They are only about $30. That will help with metal particles.

 

[Defiant]

The problem is, that this wouldn't be cheap.

Neither is a replacement transmission. The Mitsubishi transmission isn't a mystery box, and should be a straightforward task for any competent transmission service shop. The cost for a servicing should be well under a hundred Euros.

 

[Defiant]

I put a magnetic in-line filter in mine and will replace it with each trans fluid and filter change at 20k miles. They are only about $30. That will help with metal particles.

The trouble isn't the particles- the trouble is the source of the particles. Sweeping up the fallout at Hiroshima doesn't do much for the destruction.

 

[niles]

The trouble isn't the particles- the trouble is the source of the particles. Sweeping up the fallout at Hiroshima doesn't do much for the destruction.

Of course you're right, but read on...

Neither is a replacement transmission. The Mitsubishi transmission isn't a mystery box, and should be a straightforward task for any competent transmission service shop. The cost for a servicing should be well under a hundred Euros.

hundred Euros?! The Euro isn't worth that much here I called two AT shops today and described what I've observed:
The first one said a complete disassembly, check and replacement of everything needed costs 1400,- Euros.
The second shop said: "Drive it until you really got problems!" and he short described, that he thinks a specific gear is beginning to wear out. After I explicitly asked him for the cost, he said 2100,- Euros with everything included.
I didn't know how much shipping to Europe will cost, but I guess a fresh IPT transmission wouldn't be more expensive....

I put a magnetic in-line filter in mine and will replace it with each trans fluid and filter change at 20k miles. They are only about $30. That will help with metal particles.

Where exactly did you install it? Do have a product name or link to the filter?

And one last question, because it wasn't really answered yet:
Should the ATF stay absolutely clear and stay light red in color (like new), let's say after a month of normal driving?