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Venom Intake Manifold: WOW

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can anyone kindly post the specifications of the venom intake manifold? ie., runner length, diameter of each runner, port size, etc,.
i'm from the philippines and in as much as i'd like to get my hands on such an intake manifold, price is quite prohibitive due to shipping charges and our currency devaluation.
i've got access to a 5 star machine shop that can fabricate parts out of aluminum and i'm thinking about having a duplicate of a venom intake manifold made for my vehicle.
thanks in advance.
 
This topic was discussed just one week ago...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=9992

I am currently installing the new style of Venum sheetmetal intake. I can tell you this much DO NOT GET IT FOR LOOKS! It is not a "bolt-in" installation! Look at previous thread for more info.

Leon
RR
 
Whats this i hear about the Venom 400 "Blowing motors". What is that all about. Can anyone help me out on that one. I was looking into getting one and now that scars me. Can someone help???
 
This is a real interesting thread and I think I can contribute to it some. The length of the runners in the intake has lots to do with resonance tuning. The Venom and many other FGI manifolds designed for Stip use is based on multi stage resonance tuning. The first stage is in the bottom end, where the port length is offset from the engines centerline. This engine specific port length bumps up the flow velocity and also introduces swirl into the combustion chamber. This enhances thermal efficiency which, as a result increases the amount of torque on the bottom line. A good example would be the reason most hauling vehicles have smaller valves yet more torque than their big valve racing partners. The second stage is taking advantage of the pulsating nature of flow in the intake manifold. When the piston moves down during the intake stroke, a pressure wave known as rarefraction wave, moving at the speed of sound, travels back up the intake runner toward the plenum. When it reaches the open plenum volume, the rarefraction wave is reflected back down the intake runner as a compression wave. If the compression wave arrives at the intake valve just before the valve closes, the opening gets pressurized momentarily. This forces additional air into the cylinder, and improves the engines volumetric efficiency. Its true that FGI are tuned for a single engine speed. That doesnt mean you will peak out in your power band at that specific speed, because it always depends on your supporting mods. Especially with turbo. Most of the high volume long runner are tuned for high rpms, hence the need for building your top end with valves, springs and retainers. Before buying this mod plan on what you want to achieve out of the vehicle, and how you want to do it. Want a low end street machine to blow the doors off Hondas and Mustangs? Dont git this manifold. Wanna git up there with 11-10 second ET times, than this manifold is probably right for you. Supporting mods though is a key factor in tuning your car properly. The intake itself with a stock engine will only make you 400 bucks more broke.
 
Well, guys, I finally got to make some passes with this intake. First of all, as I said before, fitting thing in the car is not trevial! It took me hours of custom fabricating work to make it work. A word of caution for installers: charge for at least 5-6 hours of labor for your first one… This thing is a MAJOR PITA to do and really no better fitting than any other type of intake, so do not get it for this reason!

Then, even after I used a brand new intake manifold gasket between the manifold and the head, I have a slight leak :(. I noticed it during a pressure test. I whish I would have had it planed before I installed it. So I recommend others doing it. At this point I am just going to wait for the end of the season, but I would guess that I am missing 10-20hp through this leak…

As for performance, it is tough to say. I went from ultra laggy T3/T4 60-1 to a 14b :). So the car is much less laggy. I can see good power and boost at 3k rpms, so clearly, the manifold is not hurting me all that much :). I only took two passes with this new set-up and ran 12.13 @ 113.8 mph. Which is already a 14b trap speed record (despite the leak), so even shifting at 7k rpms this manifold is making some decent power.

Leon
RR
 
Originally posted by kreepscort
Is this a good price for the venom intake manifold?, should is it worth getting?:(
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=36474&item=2424556945

First, bare in mind that if you get this one, you will be "stuck" with 2G heads. As they have much smaller ports.

Price seems pretty good, but this is still early and I can go up more. I believe that polished intake usually goes for around $700 (~$100 more than regular).

Leon
RR
 
all i can say is get the magnus intake mani, not the venom, from what iv heard u can make more power with an extrude honed 1g mani then with the venom, but thats only what iv heard, not what iv seen
i mean think about it, have u ever heard a single bad expirance with the magnus manifold? i know i havent, that tells me that if so many other people are happy with it it must be a good design that works well, iv yet to see anyone say they love their venom intake manifold cause its so great, for every person that says its "ok" theres another that says its a piece of junk and a waste of money
 
Problems with Magnus intake? Well, my friend had a EXACT same problem with his Magus intake as I had with my Venom intake, it leaked at the flange to head. A quick trip to the machine shop and both intakes were fixed for $10 each.

As for performance, I am yet to see anyone do a good comparison tests between two AFTER-MARKET intakes! There are plenty of tests comparing them the stock manifold, but not to each other…

Lastly, I see a lot of people bashing Venom intakes with out ANY concrete evidence… It must be a popular thing to do because, after all, they are also making a bunch of “rice boy” items. Well, that is not good enough of a reason for me to dislike them. So far, I have been very happy with performance of my Venom intake. But I have nothing to compare it to (other than stock intake), so I am not a very objective source ether :(.

Leon
RR
 
When you are welding to a flange like that just a little too much heat or slight miss alignment can warp the flange plate.

I think all manifold mfg's and DIY's should throw a precision straight edge across that flange in multiple points to check it. Either that or mill it a little anyway.

As for me it's looking DIY. I can use a phenolic spacer and tune my runners to the specific engine if I choose too.
 
so you suggest that if someone purchases a magnus intake mani that they have the flange milled? I am not big on machining terms or what else would need to be done. Anything else besides getting it milled?

And how would one know that this would need to be done before they install it? is there a tool one can use to check to see if it is flat or would a tool or human eye not pick that up? What is a precision straight edge, is that a tool or a type of cut/mill?

oh and how much woudl I need to tell them to take off? They would/should know this right? ie: .01

thanks
 
I'm saying the intake MAKER if its a shop or someone who made it themself from components should check the flange.

How much to mill depends on how much of a gap you get under the straight edge as measured with something like a feeler gauge.

You just use a high precision straight edge just like checking a block deck or head for straightness.
 
Originally posted by NosLaser
...Well, what is a tiny powerband in your terms? I make over 500WHP from 6000-8500rpm, and it is a very stable, linear, nice powerband. I shift that high, because I like getting every ounce of power out, and if I had to shift lower, I wouldn't be able to shift quick enough. I can shift higher then that, the car was built for 9500rpm, and somehow, my tranny is able to keep up (stock, completely.). Maybe it is just cause I don't bang gears?...

You want to shoot for about 4000 rpm worth of truly useable powerband, regardless of if that powerband is from 2000-6000 rpm, or 4000-8000 rpm. 60-1's tend to be rather peaky turbos, and it seems like you are doing better than most, but still have a sweet spot of only about 2500rpm. Not knocking your car at all because it is actually very impressive.

...Anyways, did your car make that 423whp on nitrous? Just asking, I am thinking your name refers to nitrous...

Yes, that was with a small 16g (unclipped) and an 80 shot dry kit.

Regards,

Just giving you props on your numbers you had, 423whp on a small 16g and an 80 shot is Beyond Impressive. Mclaren has a very nice car and setup, but I feel your car is more impressive then his, a 60-1 is Huge compared to a small16g. And only about 100 more whp.:thumb:
:dsm:
 
I have no problems whatsoever with my Venom intake manifold. I have power all the way to my 8600rpm redline. I do think it’s too big for 95% of the DSMers out there. It only works well on a 4g64 or a full race 4g63. For most normal DSMers the Magnus mani works great.
 
Well, my tiny 14b was able to fill it up with compresses air (along with my big FMIC). So I am not sure if it there is really such a thing a manifold that is "too big" :).

And it was capable of making power all the way to 9000rpms on my engine (haven't taken it any farther).

My main reason for choosing it over Magnus intake, was the fact that I could use "stock" BR upper I/C pipe. So I had one less thing to worry about when I was installing it (not a huge factor, as there many, many other things to deal with :) ).

Leon
RR
 
Let me reiterate:

Venom's intake mani (the initial one) was a POS compared to the other's out there made by the reputable DSM shops (Magnus for one). If they've made a new one, that may be different, although Venom DID make the Venom 400 "blow your motor" control module, which is why I said they make junk "for the most part".

Please do your research before posting false information.

The venom Intake manifold, however you say it looks; has been proven to be the top contender, if not best overall manifold for the 4G63. When I say "overall" it's because not everybody needs to shift (make power) at over 8000rpms.

This test was done by Hal Landry, do a search..some nice info. The 1G IM proved to make the most power over ALL manifolds until 6200rpm. Then is where the SMIM shined.
 
PRESSURIZED said:
Please do your research before posting false information.




You shouldn't worry too much about him. He hasn't posted in these forums for about four years and counting.







EDIT:

PRESSURIZED said:
The 1G IM proved to make the most power over ALL manifolds until 6200rpm. Then is where the SMIM shined.




Off topic, I would like to see just how well the 1G intake manifold would compare to a Lancer Evolution III intake manifold. But I doubt we'll ever see that.
 
Allegedly the EvoIII manifold when used in conjunction with the 2G head is very VERY similar to a stock Evo 8 setup, in other words pretty damn nice :)

Way to bring back a 3 year old thread pressurized :D
 
Street Surgeon said:
Allegedly the EvoIII manifold when used in conjunction with the 2G head is very VERY similar to a stock Evo 8 setup, in other words pretty damn nice :)





Humor me. Where exactly did you get this information? From GreddyGst?
 
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