Tuning Questions, a lot of them.

[Cody D]

Okay, I've been trying to tune my car for a little while and I'm getting nowhere. I've got reams of how-to guides, but my problems aren't going away.

First off my car:

1993 Eagle Talon TSI AWD
1990 6 bolt 4g63 engine swap.
Balance Shafts removed.
MAS honeycombs removed.
K&N Filter.
Mandrel Bent Upper and Lower Intercooler Piping.
Custom Front Mount Intercooler.
Mandrel Bent Downpipe.
Mandrel Bent 3" Exhaust.
Custom 3" Muffler.
Apexi S-AFC.
Blitz Electronic Dual Selonoid Boost Controller.
Autometer Boost Gauge.

Second, the problems:

A. I'm running a normal MAS just with the lower honeycomb removed. I've read that the v1.3 MAS translator for the GM MAS has some problems that create knock, is this true and has anyone experienced this? Should I just hack the stock MAS to let more air flow?

B. I'm running stock fuel system, and I'm trying to run 15 psi on a stock 14b turbo, but I can't, I used to get fuel cut, now I'm not getting fuel cut, but I am getting some sort of studder after 4500 rpm's that I was told is my knock sensor retarding my car. I've lowered my boost down to 10 psi and it's running good but I still get that studder occasionally throughout the higher rpms at WOT. So my question is should I get the higher flowing lifters first to eliminate phantom knock or should I upgrade my fuel system first with 550cc injectors and a 225lph fuel pump?

C. Should I get a 190lph or a 225lph fuel pump, noise is not a concern. Should I get 550cc or 660cc injectors? Will I need a fuel pressure regulator once I get these two things?

D. I've been datalogging my car trying to set up my AFC for 15 psi, I can't seem to get it to work.

1. My knock sensor starts at 20 at 4500 rpms then it gradually increases to 31 at 5750 rpms and holds there untill I shut it down where it drops off immediately to 0. How do I know if this is phantom or real.

2. Under WOT at 4500 rpms my timing goes to 10 degrees, is this okay? When I release the throttle it goes to between 25 and 40 degrees.

3. My 02 sensor at WOT starting at 2000 rpms stays at 0.76 volts until 4500 rpm where it drops to between 0.2 and 0.16 volts.

4. My Injector P/W at WOT starting at 2000 rpms starts at 17.4 and goes up to 20 at 4500 rpms where it slowly goes down to 15.8 as the rpms climb to 7000 rpm.

I guess that's a lot of information, I'm sorry if it's too much, but I'm really lost.

 

[G9S1X]

A. leave the maf alone
B. 255 /w AFPR + 660cc's
C. 255 /w AFPR + 660cc's
D. did u fallow the initial startup guide correctly?
1-4. HOLY SHIT your running lean! im amazed your car is still running :thumbdown

 

[Cody D]

A. leave the maf alone

Okay.

B. 255 /w AFPR + 660cc's

I guess a fuel pressure regulator, regulates fuel pressure put out by the upgraded fuel pump. My real question is, is that all it does? You just set it at a certain pressure setpoint and that's it? How hard is it to set up and install?

D. did u fallow the initial startup guide correctly?

I guess not. I'm using one off the internet made for 1G's specifically. I got the low throttle set up no problem, but I'm guessing that at WOT I'm trying to have too much boost without enough fuel.

1-4. HOLY SHIT your running lean! im amazed your car is still running

Okay, I'm officially scared shitless, thanks.

 

[Cody D]

Well here is a log of my car at ~10 psi.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

That took way too much time to make.

 

[CanadianTSi]

You need to figure out why you are not going 100% when WOT

Also have you changed your plugs and wires lately/what is the gap on your plugs?

And depending on how big of a turbo you plan on running a 190 fuel pump would probably be enough then you don't have to get an AFPR

 

[Cody D]

The wires probably need to be replaced, the gap is good on the plugs as of a couple weeks ago.

I was wanting an Evo III big 16G turbo. Would the 190 be enough?

 

[CanadianTSi]

The wires probably need to be replaced, the gap is good on the plugs as of a couple weeks ago.

I was wanting an Evo III big 16G turbo. Would the 190 be enough?

Are the wires new also?? and yes a 190 is enough for an Evo 3 16g

 

[G9S1X]

once again you are very lean, 0.90v - 1.00v is the safe zone. your timing seems a little @ WOT, make sure its 5 btdc. and i would go VERY easy on your car untill you get bigger injectors, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator. you should add some correction% all the way across your safc2 to richen things up.

 

[Cody D]

Are the wires new also??

They are new, but I think one has a cut in it.

once again you are very lean, 0.90v - 1.00v is the safe zone.

Jeez, I must be really lean then.

your timing seems a little @ WOT, make sure its 5 btdc

Okay, I'll check it ASAP.

you should add some correction% all the way across your safc2 to richen things up.

How much do you think? Just keep correcting until I'm reading between 0.9 and 1.0 v?

Thanks a lot for the replys you guys are answering the questions I've been wondering about for ages.

 

[G9S1X]

i imagine your sparkplugs are mush running that lean, what does your correction %'s look like?

 

[CanadianTSi]

On a 1g around .90, maybe even a bit lower is good. On any DSM 1.0 is Damn Rich.

 

[Cody D]

what does your correction %'s look like?

On the SAFC? Under low throttle I've got it set up as per instructions, but on Hi throttle it wasn't working so I set them all to 0%.

On a 1g around .90, maybe even a bit lower is good.

Okay, I'll try for a bit below 0.90.

 

[Cody D]

I just thought, what if my 02 sensor is bad?

 

[G9S1X]

if your o2 sensor is bad it usualy never changes, just sits at one value all day