trans fluid mix, TRE stage 2

[GsxEcutioner]

I am running a Stage 2 TRE tranny, when i got it, it shifted beautifully, i did the first flush at 700 miles, and I have adjusted my clutch pedal correctly, i have adjusted the clutch switch for the most pedal travel, and i have bled the system with a new SS Braided line. Now I am experiencing high rpm 3rd gear grind only. I have put 1500 miles on the trans. It is filled with 3 qts of MT-90. Any ideas why its doing this? I have added a Extended rod to see if the stocker wasnt pushing the plates far enough apart. If i ease into 3rd at high rpm it goes in like butter but the RPMS drop. I have a Ebay XTD Stage 4 6 puck unsprung clutch with a Fidanza Lightened Flywheel, OEM TOB, new clutch fork and pivot ball. Maybe I still have air in the system? toss ideas at me please. Thanks
-Shane

 

[bryanwheat]

I wouldn't be surprised if it has something to do with the clutch. Every single xtd that i've ever ran had engagement issues.

 

[GsxEcutioner]

it never did it until the past 500 miles, the clutch ive had for over 10k, Also this is only in 3rd gear, any other gear it shifts fine in Any RPM.

 

[BrokenTsi]

If everything else checks out, you need to pull the transmission and have a look inside.

Is the clutch dragging? Sometimes its hard to tell. Find a flat spot in the road, put it in 1st gear, push the clutch in and rev it to 7500rpm or so. Did the car move forward?

 

[GsxEcutioner]

i dont get drag anymore, i adjusted the clutch yesterday, is it possible i still have air in the lines? I just replaced the whole clutch line yesterday and i bled it many times, but i hear you have to drive it around so the leftover air moves toward the bleeder valve. Pulling the trans is the last thing I want to do since I did it three times in a week on JackStands in my driveway. I am running out of friends that want to help me aha.

 

[BrokenTsi]

I doubt there is air in it, honestly.

Where does the clutch fork sit in the bell housing? (at rest) Closer towards the passenger side, middle, or closer to the engine..?

 

[GsxEcutioner]

if the box is like this [ = ] and = is center, it sits like this [ = l ] where l is the fork.

 

[Boostinsideways]

I wouldn't be surprised if it has something to do with the clutch. Every single xtd that i've ever ran had engagement issues.

Thats odd because every xtd I've owned was a great clutch, pulled 35k out of the first one on a 380whp build that I was not being nice to the clutch with.

 

[Lofty]

With XTDs it is very common to have to shim the pivot ball.


The fork should be directly center.

Also, if you do end up pulling it out (which you do)
Resurface the flywheel to the highest step height.

 

[Boostjunki84]

With XTDs it is very common to have to shim the pivot ball...

A stage 2 TRE comes with a new fork, pivot ball, and is shimmed already.

To the OP, you may want to try a couple more tricks with with adjusting the rod length. Also, have you checked your clutch pedal assembly? They can wear out over time on 1G's, not sure about the GVR4's, but thought I would toss the idea out there. You may have already read through the TRE FAQ, but just in case, here's a link.

Clutch Pedeal Adjustment - Team Rip Engineering

 

[Lofty]

A stage 2 TRE comes with a new fork, pivot ball, and is shimmed already.

To the OP, you may want to try a couple more tricks with with adjusting the rod length. Also, have you checked your clutch pedal assembly? Then can wear out over time on 1G's, not sure about the GVR4's, but thought I would toss the idea out there. You may have already read through the TRE FAQ, but just in case, here's a link.

Clutch Pedeal Adjustment - Team Rip Engineering

Yes, I am aware of this, you should not have to shim new transmissions, however XTDs sometimes do require extra shimming because they are EBAY.

Also, if he says his fork isnt center, than it's either bent, or needs shimming. Simple as that. (given the flywheel is the proper step height)

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Given it is in the OK zone, then you might want to look at clutch pedal bushings.

 

[GsxEcutioner]

Bump, I do get clutch drag, but I dont have the symptoms of a worn pedal assembly, I just took it out and the pedal is fully up and when i push it in the master rod does move at the same time. Since its out, I am going to have it welded. but is it possible worn bushings are only apparent when its in the car. Also the nut that holds the clutch bar onto the assembly wasnt as tight as I thought, I took it off with a wrench and my hands. is it supposed to be tighter than that?
-Shane

 

[BrokenTsi]

I would recommend replacing or upgrading the bushings rather than welding it.