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Toothless

Year
1998
Model/Trim
Eagle Talon TSi AWD

Kai Hefner

Freelancer
453
210
Jun 21, 2018
Calgary, AB_Canada
Finally getting a chance to work on the car again. I'm not here for long so I'm mostly doing measurements for new product ideas. I threw in one of my switch panels and wired up one of the switches to my AC fan. The car doesn't have AC, and the fan has never gone on since owning it. Video is below, I'm extremely happy with the way that this switch panel and switches are turning out. The dimming switch light is sweet! Now I can turn on my fans to cool down the car, even when it's not on. I don't have more switches so I haven't wired the other fan but that is soon-to-come.
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Kai Hefner

Freelancer
453
210
Jun 21, 2018
Calgary, AB_Canada
I’ve been working on/off with the car since I picked up the 240sx. The Nissan has been a bigger priority for me because I want to DD it while I stock up mods for the Talon. Regardless I finally got around to my 3000GT front brake swap! I used the volk metal craft adapter brackets (@99gst_racer). The brackets look great! Everything lined up well with the 1g 3kgt calipers.
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I had an issue with the driver side caliper because the threads into the flare were stripped. I ended up ordering a brand new one and returning the core. For brake lines I ordered the ones off of RTMRacing. The lines are a bit long in the first half, and a bit short in the second half. In the end I made everything work so it’s not the end of the world.
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The brakes are huge, mostly poke outwards a lot more than stock. I bought ARP extended lug nuts for the fronts. They were almost double the length of stock and allowed me to fit ~15mm spacers in the front in order for the brakes to clear the wheels. Tons of turns before the lugs are snug, so I’m not too concerned about any issues due to spacers. The rear does look a bit dinky compared to the staggering in the front. Hopefully going to even it out soon.
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The only big issue I had was with the passenger volk brake bracket. I doubt it’s an issue with the bracket itself, but I believe the caliper was scraping slightly on the rotor. I had to clearance the caliper in order to hopefully stop this. Still need to test drive it after the grinding. I did a test drive beforehand and the brakes stop great! No leaks, just this minor scratching issue.
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I was thinking about using the Volk supplied washers to push the caliper backwards a bit but then I would have to get longer bolts. This just seemed easier at the time.
Other than that, I’m doing a bit of styling with my switch panel. This one hasn’t been coated or finished sanding yet but I threw it in just to see what the buttons look like. Stainless steel or black? Looking for some opinions.
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2mchprssr

Probationary Member
26
5
May 25, 2009
Dearborn heights, Michigan
That switch panel is legit. I’d stick with the black tho

Might have to get those bumper risers off you in the future
 

Kai Hefner

Freelancer
453
210
Jun 21, 2018
Calgary, AB_Canada
Hmmmmm ok black it is! I only ordered one of the SS one just to see what it looked like. Figured it would better accentuate the “accents” like the bare metal shifter and stuff. Guess black is just the way to go LOL.
I totally forgot to mention in my previous post, but I FINALLY got a set of my rims back. For some backstory, I pulled these wheels off of a newer mustang in the scrapyard. I had no idea what wheels they were but definitely aftermarket. 17x10 or something like that, with some decent offset. I took them off, sand blasted them, then got a guy to paint them with an absolutely ridiculous flake! Maybe a bit too flashy for the Talon, definitely more of a 240sx sort-of rim. Also had to get a few little repairs before the rims were painted.
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Also didn’t want to post an 11 second vid to YouTube just to show off some sparkle so I tried imgur LOL
 

Kai Hefner

Freelancer
453
210
Jun 21, 2018
Calgary, AB_Canada
That switch panel is legit. I’d stick with the black tho

Might have to get those bumper risers off you in the future
Thanks man! I’ve got a set of bumper risers all ready to send out. Just give me the word!
 

Kai Hefner

Freelancer
453
210
Jun 21, 2018
Calgary, AB_Canada
Maybe it was just me, but it looks like with the 3000GT front brake swap and the volk metal craft adapters, there is some grinding/spacing of the caliper required. Frankly I’m not surprised. The passenger side was still scraping the rotor pretty bad, and apparently a bit on the drivers side too! I just couldn’t hear the noise. Pics of the driver side:
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Rotors are unharmed, I just drove the car up and down the street. The scraping is mostly on the top/edge of the rotors, not at all on the flat parts that the pads touch. I decided to do something about this issue! Grinding away at the caliper seemed barbaric, and not exactly setting the car up for the future. Even with some grinding on the passenger side, any flexing due to hard braking could make everything flex a bit and the rotor scrape the caliper again. I went and got the same grade 10.9 bolts but around 5mm longer than the provided ones (they are actually 10mm longer because I couldn’t get a flange on the bolt, so I needed another 5mm room to fit a 5mm washer for a flange). I also got 5mm hardened washers. I put the 5mm washers in between the caliper and the volk adapter brackets.
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I got longer bolts so that I utilized all of the threads in the adapter brackets. I wasn’t going to use a washer to space it out, then lose 5mm of threading on a brake caliper. This 5mm spacing made both calipers EXACTLY center on the rotor. Overall, everything worked out perfectly, planning to take it out for a drive once the weather cleans up. I don’t think this issue was an oversight of the Volk adapter brackets, these things are made REALLY well. There are just so many things car-to-car (such as rotors) that one can control. He also included washers in the package, which I assume was for this particular reason. I just felt the need to pay another $10 for peace-of-mind longer bolts and the hardened washers LOL
 

Kai Hefner

Freelancer
453
210
Jun 21, 2018
Calgary, AB_Canada
It's been a while since I've updated this thread. Toothless has been sitting pretty while I'm finishing up big work on the 240sx. She's been successful so far at being my nice-weather-daily. I recently installed one of my own designed rear-mounted battery tray. I was trying to create something that was completely stable. My previous battery tray was pretty janky, so I was itching for a proper solution. This rear-mounted battery tray is mounted off of some threaded rods that connect the rear strut bar to a lower mounting point on the chassis. Has a ton of bushings and goodies.
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One of the features that I've learned by using this tray the past week, is one-handed installation! The big silver spoiler on the trunk is too heavy for the trunk's lift supports. This means I need one hand holding the trunk up, and one hand to install the battery. With my previous battery tray, it was impossible. I had to wedge something in the trunk to hold it up, and install the battery with two hands. With my current solution, I installed, and tightened down the battery with one hand! The tray is big, and close to the rear of the car. It's easy for me to one-handed drop my 40lbs battery into the tray. The strap can be tightened completely with one-hand, and the battery gets locked down. I'm really happy with this battery tray design, I hope that I can keep expanding this thing! I think first-up might be an additional mount for my portable jumpbox, because it gives me a lot of peace-of-mind with potentially crappy batteries.
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I had to extend my battery wiring a little bit, so I ended up fixing the wiring I had before. Nothing serious, I just had extra grounds for no reason. I'm thinking about making a fire extinguisher mount off of my battery tray. Not off of the aluminum 2020, but instead off of the threaded rods. It would be a significant reach to access the fire extinguisher from the front seat, so I would have to think of a solution that could overcome that.
 
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