Timing Belt loose? Hydraulic Tensioner problem?

[cavillac]

It all started about a month ago when I pulled my head for a HG/ARP stud install, put it back together and then one time about a month later when I started it the timing jumped and I was just able to limp it a short distance home, now I reset everything the other day and I noticed that the belt seemed awfully loose on the tensioned side, I could actually move my belt back and forth on the cam gears.

So my question is about the hydraulic tensioner... I just cant picture in my head exactly how it works. It seems that it could be my problem?

Is the hydraulic supposed to be used only in an emergency type of situation where the bolt on the actual cammed timing idler comes loose or is it supposed to provide continual tension?

Or maybe I'm just not setting up the belt properly ? It is dead on though and runs perfect.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Probably referring to the auto tensioner...

The auto tensioner usually either works or fails, there is generally not an "in-between". Not an emergency device, but "active" at all times.

Depends on where the "sloppiness" is. It is perfectly normal to have the TB somewhat loose between the cam gears as when the engine shuts off the cams just "fall-where-they-fall" and one (can't remember which) usually falls about a 1/2 tooth off the other and creates a "sloppy" feel.

With that said, you should NOT be able to physically move the belt from one tooth to another at any time.

You should at the very least change the TB, BB, and auto tensioner with EVERY TB job. If you have any doubt about the auto tensioner...CHANGE IT! That is, unless you like giving work to your local shop.

 

[DSM_ThuNDeR]

You want to make sure you don't do another timing belt job once again!
So replace at least these two things:

timing belt tensioner pulley
timing belt hydrolic tensioner


When you tourque the tensioner pulley, make sure you touque the pulley so that the two dowel pins are above the bolt. This should kind of help:
Timing Belt VFAQ

 

[cavillac]

That is, unless you like giving work to your local shop.

I am the shop.. I do my own work on my car.

To all else, I called it a hydro tensioner because it seems to operate like a hydraulic rod.

I just replaced EVERYthing on the timing side of the motor exactly a year ago so I wasnt going to do it again for no reason but I'm gonna spend the extra 80$ for another tensioner just to be safe I guess.

 

[97talondsm]

You want to make sure you don't do another timing belt job once again!
So replace at least these two things:

timing belt tensioner pulley
timing belt hydrolic tensioner


When you tourque the tensioner pulley, make sure you touque the pulley so that the two dowel pins are above the bolt. This should kind of help:
Timing Belt VFAQ

i wanna find a vfaq site for a 2g 2.0 420a for a 97, but that says for lower years... how long does it take for the full process of replacing the TB?

 

[cfriddle]

Sounds To Me Like A Setup Issue? What Are You Using For Reference To Complete The Job? Mitchells? Shopkey? Alldata? These Motors Have A Very Precise Process To Setting The Timing Belt. You Have To Torque The Tensioner Excentric To 31 Inch Lbs Of Torque Counterclockwise On The Tensioner Pulley. You Also Need A Feeler Guage To Measure Distance Between Top Of Auto Tensioner Housing And Tensioner Arm Which Should Be .15-.18"

 

[luv2rallye]

Sometimes measuring the distance between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body (usually with a drill bit) is hard to see or do. Example: Can't get in there or see if drill bit is truly parallel to the tensioner top (which affects measurement) or you can’t get a 2.6 ft-lb torque wrench on the tensioner pulley special tool #MLR-MD-998767. You can replace all that complicated tensioning torque stuff (which you can rarely get right with the engine in the car anyway - no room) with the following alternative:

Just adjust the tensioner pulley so that the auto tensioner holding pin (eg. 1/16” allen wrench) moves freely all the way through the auto tensioner body and pin holes (after you turn the crankshaft and wait for the belt to stretch and auto tensioner to settle). Adjust the tensioner pulley to do this and it will automatically make the distance between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body (drill bit measurement) be about .157 in. (spec is .150 - .177 in.). I've done over a dozen dsm timing belts this way every one done correctly.

 

[Defiant]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/pro...-sagging-sprockets-gears.html?highlight=slack

 

[margmiller26]

So my question is about the hydraulic tensioner... I just cant picture in my head exactly how it works. It seems that it could be my problem?

Here is the general operating procedure for a hydraulic tensioner. High pressure hydraulic oil from a pump applies an exact, axial load to the fastener. Once the system reaches a specific pressure, the operator uses a small bar to run the nut down by hand. This is easily accomplished because there is no load on the nut. After he seats the nut, he releases the hydraulic pressure, transferring the axial load to the fastener.