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*sigh*clutch pedal all the way to the floor, cant rev past 3200rpm

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eklypse

15+ Year Contributor
328
2
Aug 17, 2005
Lacey, Washington
Hello all,

heres the breakdown:
I did a post on here a while ago about smoke and the replies mostly said i have a leak somewhere. checked and i couldnt find one, so i talked to my boy Big country (we call him big country because hes from the country and he can make ANYTHING with an engine work...) he says that my turbo is pretty much on its last leg and this is why i cant make boost at all. Now, with this knowledge, i drive to work with no boost (about .5 miles away), check some emails, and get ready to go home. hop in the car, engauged the clutch and my Clutch pedal fell to the floor with no pressureWTF...so i pull it up with my feet and try again with the same results. I checked fluid level and it was low so i filled it up with DOT-3 brake fluid and tried again and it just wont work. then i rev my car and its like i cant go past 3200rpm. at 3200rpm's, it sounds like a high HP car on Gran Turismo stuck in Neutral. so now two things come to mind:

1. It cant be my clutch can it, seeing as how it worked perfectly on my way to work?

2. transmission fluid maybe?

Any suggestions/comments/anything is GREATLY accepted...
 
Will it go into gear while running? If not, I would venture to guess it is the clutch slave cylinder. I get to replace the one on my son's car tonight. As simple as these cars are to work on you should have no problem replacing it. Maybe try bleeding the slave cylinder before you consider replacing it. You bleed them just like brakes. The bleeder screw is on the front of the trans pointing at the passenger corner of the car. Get a flashlight and look you should be able to see it.
 
no it wont go into gear when its running. would you happen to have a diagram that shows that? I have a Manual but its at home so i cant look at it for reference.
 
yeah its your clutch slave cylinder dead had this problem in my 2G while i was out of town LOL. replace it and you clucth pedal will be back.
 
clutch slave cylinder eh? I guess I'll hopefully be changing that sometime soon...man, i just wish my Tx plates were here so i can go to my mechanic...
 
http://www.plymouthlaser.com/slave2.htm
It's located on the transmission. You can see it if you crawl under the front of the car. Pull back the rubber boot to check for leaks. If it is, replace it. If not, bleed the system first and see if that helps.
Check the master cylinder too. It likes to leak under the dash, go down the firewall, and get the carpet wet. Follow the clutch pedal and you'll see it attached to a rod going into the firewall. Pull back the carpet there that's where it'll leak
 
http://www.plymouthlaser.com/slave2.htm
It's located on the transmission. You can see it if you crawl under the front of the car. Pull back the rubber boot to check for leaks. If it is, replace it. If not, bleed the system first and see if that helps.

LOL, my car is too low for me to just crawl under:notgood: does anyone know how to bleed the system with only one person? I know it can be done and i know its a PITA, but nobody will me...
 
Your clutch problems can be anything along your hydraulic system. That includes master cylinder, clutch reservoir, and various lines in addition to the slave cylinder. Chances are your problem lies with your master or slave. If your car was fine before and now has these clutch problems, a bleed will do you no good. You have a serious leak that will not go away with a simple bleed. I suggest looking underneath your dash at the master cylinder boot for signs of fluid/leak. Same applies for crawling underneath your car and looking underneath the boot of your slave, as well as looking along the entire hydraulic system for areas that are leakinig (especially connector areas). When replacing either cylinder, it is also a good idea to replace the other at the same time as both do the same amount of work... when one goes the other is likely on it's way out also.

As a personal suggestion, I would replace the reservoir with a SS line while everything is apart and drained. The reservoir is garbage and the SS line tightens up the feel alot.
 
LOL, my car is too low for me to just crawl under:notgood: does anyone know how to bleed the system with only one person? I know it can be done and i know its a PITA, but nobody will me...

Haha.. okay, you should still be able to see it from the top if you know where to look. As No Skillz stated, people tend to replace both the master and the slave at the same time. The slave can be found for around $50 and the master under $100. I got lucky and a local place had a master for $55.

To bleed with one person:
Stick a vacum hose (or any hose really) onto the bleeder valve and make sure it is secure.
Take a water bottle and put a little bit of clean brake fluid in it.
Place the other end in the water bottle and place it on a chair or wedge the bottle somewhere in the engine bay where it is higher than the bleeder valve and won't fall off.
Take your flarenut wrench (you can use a boxend, but risk stripping the screw) and open the valve.
Go pump the clutch 5 times and check the brake fluid reservoir, add fluid when needed.
Repeat previous step until no more air comes out
You may need to manually bleed the slave cylinder by pushing on it instead of the pedal.
Close bleeder valve.
Place the water bottle lower than the bleeder valve and remove the hose from the valve (done correctly and you won't spill a lot of fluid)
Clean up, pump the clutch several times, and test drive.
 
Your clutch problems can be anything along your hydraulic system. That includes master cylinder, clutch reservoir, and various lines in addition to the slave cylinder. Chances are your problem lies with your master or slave. If your car was fine before and now has these clutch problems, a bleed will do you no good. You have a serious leak that will not go away with a simple bleed. I suggest looking underneath your dash at the master cylinder boot for signs of fluid/leak. Same applies for crawling underneath your car and looking underneath the boot of your slave, as well as looking along the entire hydraulic system for areas that are leakinig (especially connector areas). When replacing either cylinder, it is also a good idea to replace the other at the same time as both do the same amount of work... when one goes the other is likely on it's way out also.

As a personal suggestion, I would replace the reservoir with a SS line while everything is apart and drained. The reservoir is garbage and the SS line tightens up the feel alot.

true, but i figure i might as well bleed it first to be safe you know? like i could feel when the clutch stayed on the floor, and then it would pop up a few seconds later...and this has been happening for about 5 months but this is only the second time. the first time i had my mech look at it and he said that i just had an air pocket, fixed the pocket for free and i was set....5 months later, same thing. so i guess what i'm saying now is that does it take that long for a cylinder to go out? its not like i have a stock clutch or anything like that. also, I've noticed that i cant grind gears. for instance, i can start my car (i dont have to press the clutch to start it) and i can (if i REALLY wanted to) force it in gear. now i know that is a BIG :nono: but usually if you try to do somethin like that, your tranny will make that grinding noise, is there somethin wrong with that or am i just losing it?
 
....As a personal suggestion, I would replace the reservoir with a SS line while everything is apart and drained. The reservoir is garbage and the SS line tightens up the feel alot.

do you know of a company that makes SS lines?
 
do you know of a company that makes SS lines?
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/ecldrivetrain.htm
2/3s of the way down

true, but i figure i might as well bleed it first to be safe you know? like i could feel when the clutch stayed on the floor, and then it would pop up a few seconds later...and this has been happening for about 5 months but this is only the second time. the first time i had my mech look at it and he said that i just had an air pocket, fixed the pocket for free and i was set....5 months later, same thing. so i guess what i'm saying now is that does it take that long for a cylinder to go out? its not like i have a stock clutch or anything like that. also, I've noticed that i cant grind gears. for instance, i can start my car (i dont have to press the clutch to start it) and i can (if i REALLY wanted to) force it in gear. now i know that is a BIG :nono: but usually if you try to do somethin like that, your tranny will make that grinding noise, is there somethin wrong with that or am i just losing it?

Grab the pedal with your hand and try pumping up the pressure. Does the clutch pressure start to return to normal? If so, how long does it last?

On a side note, I think your revving problems are unrelated.
 
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/ecldrivetrain.htm
2/3s of the way down



Grab the pedal with your hand and try pumping up the pressure. Does the clutch pressure start to return to normal? If so, how long does it last?

On a side note, I think your revving problems are unrelated.

i cant even pump it because it just stays on the floor. i can pull it up with my feet, but as soon as i press down on it it just drops.
 
I changed the master a slave cylinders last week, My slave was bad and there were no leaks on either end. While trying to figure out which one was bad, I noticed that the master cylinder should push back if the slave is good or bad. So this makes me think that your master is bad, not pushing back, just a dead pedal. The way I tested it was to undo the line coming from the master and plug it, fill the resevoir, and check for pressure. No pressure, or not enough means your master cylinder needs a rebuild.

From what I've read on these forums, when one goes bad, the other ones not far behind.
 
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