The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support STM Tuned

removing fuel pressure soilenoid, forreal?

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.


20+ Year Contributor
Oct 29, 2002
Paris_AR that site says you can unhook the fuel pressure solenoid and not have any problems as long as you leave the electrical conector pluged in, is this true? cuz the way i understood it the afpr was connected to that solenoid via a vaccuum line , and the solenoid was what actually adjusted the pressure in accordance to idle position, is this correct or does the aeromotive afpr, completely eleminate the need for this solenoid? thanks
I dont know the answer for sure but everyone says to eliminate it. I am interested to see what everyone has to say.
junk all that garbage. Make sure you use a vac line from the FPR to the intake mani and your fine. That was the first thing i did 2 years ago.
Ok, I did a 6 bolt swap in my 98 gst and I am hooking mine up. The fps adjust fuel preasure on startup for different temp conditions. So when your engine is at normal operating temp, it will take longer for it to start. Maybe it would be fine for your case but I won't eliminate it.
I've been running it bypassed ever since it blew my headgasket for me. The hose popped off the solenoid at 17psi and it detonated badly.

So far with about 6k miles on the new motor without the solenoid I have noticed absolutly no difference in startup, or idle.
Mine has been completely removed since I owned the car, no issue.
The FPS is for cold engine starts only. At start-up the vacuume that would decrease the fuel pressue is bleed off the FPR by the FPS which in turns alows for a richers start which is needed on a Cold motor. Those running say 43.6 PSI of fuel pressure in a 1G might not ever notice a start problem. Only thing that can happen is it take a few more seconds like 5-10 seconds to start your car in extreame cold.

Also the FPS didn't blow up your car. Not checking your vacuume/boost lines for claps to ensure they don't come off did. Which sucks as the vacuume line to the FPR is about one of the most important their is under the hood.
Yep same here, did the whole Vac line removal from Taboo. 2 years and no problems. Throttle body lines are all blocked too :thumb:
The only car Ive ever seen that had problems with removing it was in colorado, and in winter.

My friends car would back fire, miss, and generally not Idle at all. I hooked up the FPS and everything went back to normal.

Note: This was in sub 20* at about 5200ft above sea level.

Ive havent seen any other cars have issues with it though.

-Dallas J
I just have a piece of hose straight from my fpr to my intake manifold and have no problems at all, not even in very cold weather.
I kept the fpr solinod, but got rid of my egr valve, and the other nonsence solinods to go with it, along witht the ugly braket. I also removed my AC a short while ago, so I was able to remove the AC fuse box and clean things up a bit more. Now I need to take a pressure washer to my engine bay. :D


  • 2 058.jpg
    2 058.jpg
    53.2 KB · Views: 241
Like most others have mentioned, I unhooked mine about two years ago and have had no problems. And with DSMLink, you can remove the FPS entirely and not throw a code. :thumb:
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds