2G Problems with battery relocate

[nuclearr]

Ok I have a ground issue with my battery relocate. For staters I am on my 4th alt since relocating to the trunk (relocated less than 6 months ago). And needing a second sarter. I found I had a loose main engine ground so I fixed that. I also added a second ground So the starter and the block now have there own grounds. They are grounded to the battery tie down stud on the strut tower. Each are 4 guage. I aso have a 4 gage in the trunk boted to one of the factory holes for a 12mm bolt.

When my car idles it miss fires due to my ground issue. And gets worse when I turn on my head lights.

My power wire is a 2 guage. With a 150 amp fuse

My new alt is a Mitsu reman 90 amp for a Galant

 

[Rsawd95dsm]

I would check to see that all the grounds are clean and where they hook up are clean and rust/paint free and secondly I would move the ground strap from the strut tower to the fire wall

 

[nuclearr]

I inspected and cleaned the ends sunday when I installed the galant alt.

Why would the fire wall vs. strut tower make any difference?

At that time I also installed the second ground wire. It ran great sunday and monday. Then today I got to leave for work and it was acting up again just not as much as it use to.

 

[nuclearr]

UPDATE:

I think this is resolved. I will know for sure when I drive it to work on monday.

I put in a 4ga ground that goes from the engine to the trunk. It goes from the engine to a terminal on the strut tower where it is sodered then runs to a terminal bolted to the trunk floor. Where is also sodered then to the battery. For some reason the chassi on my spyder is a horible ground. It did not mater if it was the fire wall or the strut tower.

I had a missfire that would only show up in the lower rpms, after about 2k it went away.

There is also a second wire going from one of the starter bolts to the strut tower. I may also ground the alt will see on that one.

 

[jtmcinder]

It makes no sense that a long 4ga ground would be better than a short one. The entire chassis is ground. A short wire from any given thing to the chassis is what you want. My guess - ack! he's guessing! someone report him! - is that each time you move a ground, you scrape off more paint and/or muck and get a better connection.

 

[nuclearr]

It makes no sense that a long 4ga ground would be better than a short one. The entire chassis is ground. A short wire from any given thing to the chassis is what you want. My guess - ack! he's guessing! someone report him! - is that each time you move a ground, you scrape off more paint and/or muck and get a better connection.

I know that is why I only had a lead going to the floor pan in the trunk into a facotry 12mm bolt hole and the engine ground went to the factory location on the fire wall. It seems to be better now that I have a full length ground from the engine to the battery. But I will only really be able to tell after a good amount of driving, around the block doesnt mean much.

Edit: I now see your saying I should create a potential rust spot I'll pass and keep my full lenght ground.

 

[jtmcinder]

Okey-dokey Lemon Smokey, but creating what you call a potential rust-spot is what a lot of other people call creating a good connection. As to the rust: after you have verified that the connection is good, you paint over the whole thing.

 

[nuclearr]

Tell you what go look at a Miata or anything with a stock battery in the trunk or a bmw under the rear seat, you will not find the paint striped off it is all grounded though a bolt hole or a stud.

Then doing what you said looks like a hack job when your done painting it.

 

[cotsi95]

He is right the proper way to make a ground is to have a solid metal to metal connection by removing paint. You also want the shortest grounds possible, so running one the entire length of the car is not ideal.

 

[nuclearr]

The short grounds are still inplace.... They are conected by a secondary full lenth ground there is no differnence.

I think my alt issue may have been resoved by the 90 amp mitsu reman alt. Instead of the nation wide local junko parts dealers.

I now know part of my missfire issue is not related to the ground issue, as it is still there. I must track it down. But this full length ground did help it.

I know metal to metal is best but I am not striping the paint to make a better ground especailly when that turns out not to be the main issue. If you can not ground through the bolt there is some other issue like panited bolts/studs or paint in the threads. Both of which are not my issue.

I did not post this post to recive the sarcasim I recived above. Just to try to figure out my issue. The full lenght ground helps and would recomend it to all.

Now on to the next issue my low rpm random missfire which most likely is my crappy 2g injector clips. Or bad coil packs.

 

[talon2gbuyer]

I'm surprised no one has made a relocation kit for DSM's yet..

 

[nuclearr]

They do check the supporting vendors. I chose to make my own because it was cheaper. I also did things differently so I was told I was wrong. I however have no more charging issues from the relocate its now been 8months since I fried my last alt. They were only lasting a month before I started to have issues.