2G Possible head gasket issue

[Kod]

well here is what is going on

thermostat went a little above half but never got hot but had to baby it or it would've gone to high but then straightened itself out for maybe 3 minutes then back to the same way

im thinking that maybe the thermostat is sticking (at least hoping so)

no coolant / sweet smell from the exahust
haven't check the plugs for white color yet

anybody got any advice let me know thanks

shop near me will charge 40$ to do a compression test which if the thermostat doesn't fix it is my next option.

what's the typically price for a head job or time so i got an idea.

think they charge 55$ a hr

Edit 2/11/14

Replaced thermostat and no overheating staying at normal temp and tested by revving engine to 4k (after reaching temperature) then revving to 6k then holding at 3k - 3.5k then revving back up to 6k then let it idle for a few minutes, made sure fan was working and it does, no temperature issues.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Do your own compression test rent a tool from anywhere, then see if the results are within spec or not.

 

[Pipnorcali]

So it got a lil hot for a few min then went back to normal? You can get a coolant tester for like $40 and see if you got exhaust gas in the coolant.
I dont get why you'd want a comp. test

 

[Kod]

Well I have noticed a lack in power but wondering if that is the turbo going because doesn't spool like it should and makes a loud pitch whistle for 10 - 30 seconds after letting off boost (probably the wastegate?)

Compression test would give same results as buying a coolant tester though wouldn't it? Or least give a better idea if the compression is weak.

I checked the head just to see if i could put my hand on it and I could it wasn't scolding hot or anything like that.

 

[Pipnorcali]

Low comp. could be many things from bad rings to something in the head ..hard to pinpoint it to a head gasket ..
Check n make sure you dont have a small crack in one of the coolant hoses (going to the turbo ones)

 

[Kod]

I don't loose any coolant, reservoir stays good, rarely it might leak a little out of the one O ring that comes from the lower compartment of the engine to the thermostat housing but nothing near a significant amount, plus I check all fluids daily.

Oil has no signs of any mixture, exhaust no sweet smell but far as I know if your pump goes then it will overheat period (experienced this with previous vehicles).
Will check turbo lines and see if anything is going on there.

My thermostat I did change 2 1/2 yrs ago because it stuck closed but straightened it self out so I was able to get home with normal temperature.

I don't think a shot EGR valve can cause any heating issues in any shape way or form other than make you burn more gas then you should be, but my ISC motor I know is shot too pins 1 - 3 is right on the money but 4 - 6 is shot.

It did idle funny the other day after running to the store and then starting up it went to 2.5k rpm then shot back down to 800 rpm then shot back up then back down.

 

[erkitner]

Alright, brother. Let's put your heating issue to bed.

First off, don't look at your coolant reservoir like its gonna give you real-time info. This is only for overflow. When your engine cools down, your engine will suck coolant from there to replace anything lost. But only after cool-down.

If you sit at idle and the heat rises, hit the gas and hold it at 2500 RPMs. Does it drop to normal?

If it does, you're experiencing "vapor lock". All this is a stuck air bubble. Kinda like a stroke in the human body....just less damaging. Lol

You gotta burp your coolant system. Get the air bubbles out. If not, that air bubble will hit the water pump when you get to idle and cant push the coolant through the system to efficiently cool your engine. Just gets stuck there...turning nothing but air.

Here's what you do:

1. Let your engine get to cold. Like COLD.
2. Remove the cap at the water neck (where you add coolant).
3. Start the car.
4. Add coolant until at the VERY top.
5. Let the engine warm up naturally.
6. If (more like WHEN) the coolant level drops, ADD COOLANT IMMEDIATELY!
7. Keep the coolant level full at all times. (If you add a teaspoon of coolant and it spills, youre doing it right)
8. Once your engine reaches operating temperature, it should start to "burp". (Bubbles will appear at the fill hole, big or small). This is normal. Add coolant till "spilling over" again)
9. Gently squeeze the upper radiator hose and release. (You should see more bubbles) This is the "massage the radiator hose portion. Works those bubbles out.
10. Repeat steps 6-9 until no more bubbles appear.... EVER. (This process should take about 30 minutes altogether.)

Stay cool!

DSM4Life!

It did idle funny the other day after running to the store and then starting up it went to 2.5k rpm then shot back down to 800 rpm then shot back up then back down.[/QUOTE]

This is normal. Your idle RPM will base themselves off coolant temp sent from the 2nd sensor to your ECU to overcome any "vapor lock" situation.

As I said before: Burp it.

 

[gnarkill6x6]

I say give what erkitner said a try, sounds strange to burp the system. But it will really help. You would be surprised how much air is probably in your system if you haven't burped, pressurized it.

Have you ever replaced the water pump or know if anyone else replaced it? Not certain on the stock ones. But I know a lot of stuff is being made with resin so over time it will break down and need replaced. Not sure if our OEM are metal or not.

 

[erkitner]

sounds strange to burp the system. But it will really help. You would be surprised how much air is probably in your system if you haven't burped, pressurized it.

Its not "strange". This is what we do FIRST in intermittent overheating situations for ALL cars. (I work at a dealership.)

Have you ever replaced the water pump or know if anyone else replaced it? Not certain on the stock ones. But I know a lot of stuff is being made with resin so over time it will break down and need replaced. Not sure if our OEM are metal or not.[/QUOTE]

Our OEM water pumps ARE metal. Aluminum, actually. The only part of your water pump that causes catastrophic overheating is when the shaft seal fails (age, wear and tear) or the impeller shaft BREAKS due to corrosion (due to high alkalinity usually caused by neglect.)

 

[Kod]

Ill give this a shot this morning but I am smart enough to use distilled water only and water pump I had replaced last year when I had the time done because a soft plug for the balance shaft came out and sprayed out ridiculously bad.

Thanks for the replies!