overheating

[cyrez187]

hey anyone else have the problem of overheating? because when im boosting a bit my car gets up to 250 on the autometer guage and stays there, is bad running your car at that temp? anyway to bring my temps down?

 

[crunchymilk]

yeah that's way too hot

you need to figure out how to divert airlow to your radiator, how is it at idle? Are the fans still wired stock?

 

[xxthayxx]

yeah..try the 2 fan wire mod if you havent done it yet..a 160 Degree Thermostat and some Redline Water Wetter helps aswell to cool the engine.

 

[cyrez187]

ya it gets hot at idle too, ive tried that redline stuff it helps but still, and i got a flydine rad with a 160 thermostat as well. but i only have 1 fan, if i wired in another fan would that help? my buddy told me the fan is only on when idleing not when driving so another fan wouldnt do anything. is it bad to be driving anything above 210?

 

[cyrez187]

whats the 2 fan wire mod,just wire the fans so they are on all the time? and if i got another fan and had 2 would that make a difference as well?

 

[BigRand]

whats the 2 fan wire mod,just wire the fans so they are on all the time? and if i got another fan and had 2 would that make a difference as well?

Just out of curiosity, because I'm having some what of the same issue.

if you have an electric autometer water temp gauge, and the wire that hooks to the thermostat is slightly exposed and not covered correctly in wire loom, could the heat from the engine throw the gauge reading off?

The reason I ask this, is because my regular water temp gauge doesn't move at all, when my temp gauge moves from 200-210, infact even when the regular stock temp gauge is lower then normal on a cold night, the autometer water temp gauge still reads about 210.


So Cyrez, what does your stock water temp gauge look like?

What about just after the car is warmed up?

And after a good spirited freeway, or hard drive?

 

[cyrez187]

my stock one doesnt even work,i was just woundering if i had 2 fans if it would help ### im running outta ideas

 

[4UH8ERS]

my stock one doesnt even work,i was just woundering if i had 2 fans if it would help ### im running outta ideas

. Is it the gauge cluster itself or your temp sensor thats broke. If you cluster is messed up i can sell you one cheap that works fine.

 

[XMasta19]

...I just removed the sensor for the factory dummy gauge. I think watching temps on my autometer gauge and on my megasquirt realtime display is enough monitoring for me...

 

[cyrez187]

ya i have the autometer one, my cluster one doesnt work, but why am i overheating guys would 2 fans help?? i really need to fix this problem, because im getting ridiculous hot!

 

[cyrez187]

if i take the blue wire off the stock rad fan and put it to power will it always be on? i want the fan on when the car is on always! i see a black ground wire and a blue wire coming off the fan

 

[BigRand]

When your driving, try making sure that your heater controls are letting in air from the outside, this will help let air pass through the car. I also try to turn the fan switch on to low most of the time.

if your not too hot in your car, turn the heater to hot, and that should help cool the motor as well.

 

[Kirby]

So first of all don not drive the car at 250 degree temps, that is WAY too high. Now yes another fan will help with the temps, and your friend is a moron. The fans are powered based on temps, not motion. I have the C&R rad and it came with one fan that was not enough, so I put a second fan on there as well. The real question is what is causing the heat? If it heats up at idle then the fan is not the issue unless it's not comming on at all. If you start the car and just let it idle does the fan come on? Does the car overheat at idle? Is it only overheating with the AC on? Did you wire your one fan to the AC fan or to the regular fan harness? How old is the thermostat? How old is the water pump? Is it weeping coolant, are you getting circulation? There a couple of things that can cause you to run hot, if your thermostat and water pump are known to be good then there are a few other things to check. After you have checked the simple things like the guage sender the stat and checking for circulation at the pump. Check the gaskets on your turbo. I had a star kit with no gaskets for the DP or the turbo flange. There was small amounts of leakage that were causing temp increases. There is also the possibility that there is a HG leak that is only getting into the water jacket. Are you showing any signs of coolant burning? It is possible that when the engine is under such high cilinder pressures that the gasses are getting through the gasket. Are you still on your stock HG? Do you have head studs and the MLS? If it's not the easy stuff then it's the hard stuff.

 

[TalonESIT]

I have an over heating problem that I have been working on as well. Since I live in Vegas the heat out here does not help much either. I don't have an egt gauge yet because I bought a wideband at first instead. I was wondering, with the egt gauges, at what temperature levels (Temp. # on egt's) does the stock temp gauge needle raise. Sorry if the question is confusing...

Also, When it's anything past 105 degrees over here and I have my AC on my stock Temp. needle rises a little bit, but drops right back after I turn off the AC. I can't remove my AC because it is way too hot over here, but anyone have any suggestions?

 

[4UH8ERS]

I have an over heating problem that I have been working on as well. Since I live in Vegas the heat out here does not help much either. I don't have an egt gauge yet because I bought a wideband at first instead. I was wondering, with the egt gauges, at what temperature levels (Temp. # on egt's) does the stock temp gauge needle raise. Sorry if the question is confusing...

Also, When it's anything past 105 degrees over here and I have my AC on my stock Temp. needle rises a little bit, but drops right back after I turn off the AC. I can't remove my AC because it is way too hot over here, but anyone have any suggestions?

if you got some extra cash you can get.

1. visteon aluminum racing radiator with attached cooling fan: $450.00 bucks shipped from radiator barn.

2. fluidyne radiator and som fal slim lines bolt up nicely to them. your looking at about 500.00+ new going that route.

and always redline water wetter is nice assuming you use the correct mixture.

then run the a/c all you want.

 

[TalonESIT]

if you got some extra cash you can get.

1. visteon aluminum racing radiator with attached cooling fan: $450.00 bucks shipped from radiator barn.

2. fluidyne radiator and som fal slim lines bolt up nicely to them. your looking at about 500.00+ new going that route.

and always redline water wetter is nice assuming you use the correct mixture.

then run the a/c all you want.

That was going to be my next purchase, but I was searching around the forums and I read that an upgraded radiator doesn't do all that much for your engine temperature. I forgot the exact thread, but it did discourage me from purchasing the radiator at the time. Is that true? I thought the radiator was a major factor in cooling until I read that thread.

Oh btw, I don't use a coolant mix. Since it doesn't get anywhere near freezing over here, I've switched to a 40 below mixture; not the additive but the full system. It works real well!!

 

[elfroggo]

You should try to make a duct to direct flow to the radiator and possibly use heat shields to prevent heatsoak from hot exhaust manifold/turbo components.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

An upgraded radiator won't lower your engine temps, it'll just dissipate heat more efficiently, which better prevents heat soak. The only real way to alter your engine temperature is to switch thermostats.

 

[TalonESIT]

An upgraded radiator won't lower your engine temps, it'll just dissipate heat more efficiently, which better prevents heat soak. The only real way to alter your engine temperature is to switch thermostats.

Ok ^.^ thanks for clearing that up for me. Does anyone have any links or ideas on how to make heat shields out of sheet metal? I know how to make it, but I don't know what it would mount to. I searched, but I'm not sure on what key words to use...

I don't mean to steal a thread either...

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Trial and error. Everyone's turbo setup is a little different, so there won't be one clear-cut way. I plan on making a few of them when I come home in November. If you still need one by then, let me know.

 

[Jeff99GS]

This may sound Obvious but, Did you check to see if you are losing coolant?? My car was doing the same thing last summer, It turned out my Heater core was bad.....So I fixed the heater core.
A week later the car was still getting HOT and losing small amouts of coolant. So I looked all over and I finally felt some wetness around the bottom of the little hose that comes off the thermostat housing and connects to the heater line. That Little Hose is right over the Exhaust Manifold, so any dripping is instantly burned off and you will never even know its leaking.
It causes only a slight drop in the coolant level because it is only 1" below the coolant filler neck. That Slight drop in coolant is enough to let AIR into your cooling system
You shouldn't be able to see you thermostat spring when you open your Radiator cap. If you can see it, then your coolant is low.

 

[GotSome-Turbo]

I had that little huse break on me once in the middle of traffic congestion. I thought I had blown a freakin head gasket !! If you look on you rmanifold immediately below it and see what looks like "white calcium" deposites, that's a good indicator that it's leaking.

 

[TalonESIT]

Thanks for all the tips everyone, but luckily I don't have any coolant leaks. The only time the temperature raises is if I turn on my AC when it's 105 degrees + outside...

 

[VelocitàPaola]

I think that's your problem right there. At this stage, I'm not sure how much more efficient you can ask your eleven year old cooling system to be in 100*+ weather. Besides replacing everything with new parts, you can try Water Wetter (like already suggested), or maybe a UDP. The UDP should lessen the load on your car with the A/C on.

 

[Kirby]

Well you are not buying the radiator trying to lower the running temp of your engine, you are just buying it to keep from overheating. And that is it's exact function. Now that you have all that extra heat under the hood, when you run the AC it puts too much strain on the system and it starts to overheat. So if you get that radiator with an increased capasity it will match your increased demand and everything will even out. Since you are in Vegas, I know it can still get a little chilly at night. If you do ever use your heater then buy a 180 degree stat, if you NEVER use it then buy the 160 degree stat. Then if it still overheats on you when the AC is on, then buy that new rad. Radiators do have a life span, they are not good forever, and 10 years is a pretty long run... Try the simple stuff first but if it doesn't stop it then you'll have to look other places.. Also check your guage sender. I had one of those go bad on me before. Not the ECU but the single wire one. You can get those really cheap at the zone and it could just be giving incorrect readings...