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newer style lifter question for ticking

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nazthug

15+ Year Contributor
478
8
Dec 24, 2003
livermore, California
I know there are new lifters out available with bigger oil passages to eliminate valve ticking


BUT I have a 1999 gst, build date late 98, but still a 99 model

My question is do i already have these new "99" lifters or not?

I have pretty annoying ticking and i am trying to eliminate it

its loud for the first 3 minutes of warmup or so

Then it gets quiet but you can still hear it, from inside and outside

Sounds like some is coming from valves, some from manifold and some from the bottom of the car


I am getting my timing belt done, along with ALL other pulleys and auto tensioner and water pump, so any ticking related to that will be eliminated

I may also replace the harmonic pulley just in case

I just want to get rid of it, i want a nice, smooth, quiet engine
 
i think only the 3 gen eclipses have the revised lifters
 
98 is when they first started putting the larger holed lifters in.. My buddy has a 98GSX and he had them, my 99GSX had them as well... If they are ticking, you should just remove them and clean them with some brake/carb cleaner... They will be good as new after that.. :thumb:
 
hmm...interesting


everyone always tries to recommend oil...blablabla...LOL

I tried it all

I first tried mobile 1 synth.

Now im runnng royal purple

I also ran engine cleaner before each oil change.

Nothing helped.

When i changed the oil, for the first like 200 miles, it seemed quieter.

I will try pulling them out and cleaning them

Whats the best way to clean them? Soak them in something over night?
 
nazthug said:
hmm...interesting


everyone always tries to recommend oil...blablabla...LOL

I tried it all

I first tried mobile 1 synth.

Now im runnng royal purple

I also ran engine cleaner before each oil change.

Nothing helped.

When i changed the oil, for the first like 200 miles, it seemed quieter.

I will try pulling them out and cleaning them

Whats the best way to clean them? Soak them in something over night?


I would spray cleaner in the holes first and get the big chunks of oil out and then let them soak for a couple hours or so... Then soak them in oil before you put them back in...
 
I've been told by more than a few people that using Lucas oil additive helps out a lot. Might want to give it a shot. It's cheap.
 
Making the oil thicker using additives or a generally thicker oil is just a bandaid.

You have 2 choices:

-Take the lifters out and clean them (there is a good thread on that on the baord)
-Replace the lifters with the revised ones. The revised lifters cost ~$150 and a few hours of your time. Personally I would rather replace them than clean them and hope for the best. If you do clean them make SURE they go in the same location you took them out of.
 
nazthug said:
BUT I have a 1999 gst, build date late 98, but still a 99 model

maybe i'm just stupid but I want to clear this up. And, this doesn't answer your question I know. I believe that the build season for cars is the Fall of every year so therefore if your car was made in Late 98, it is a 99 Model. If it is built in the spring it is considered a 99 and a Half. Like the 64 1/2 Mustang.
 
oil stabilizers did nothing for me bit make the tick louder.

cleaning the lifters did not help much for me.

and it doesnt matter what order the lifters go back in. They are all the same.
 
this hole lifter thing interests me as well. My friend had problems with his in his 1995 talon so I gave him my stock 97 gsx lifters because I am running a 1g head with a new set of lifters. Comparing the 1995s and 1997s the 1997s had MUCH bigger holes up top so I know they were changed prior to 1998. Also the 1997s don't tick at all that were stock on my car....
 
if you clean your lifters, make sure and bleed them!! if you don't bleed them, they will tick upon startup no matter what.
 
I haven't taken the head apart on my eclipse yet so I'm not sure, are our lifters adjustable as far as the clearance between the lifter and the valve? If so adjusting that helps quite a bit because I had to do that on my last car after I put on a new head.
 
the only way to adjust the clearance is to grind some off of the tip of each valve.

For those who are plagued with ticking:
If your valve stem height isn't correct, your head will tick no matter what. If the valve stem height is off .005" either direction, you will tick. You generally have about .010" margin of tolerance before the stem height is unacceptable. I have to deal with that every day at work (i work at a head shop). People who get their head rebuilt at the other shop in town will bring their heads back to me complaining about the head being very noisy for just being rebuilt. Whenever i take the head apart and measure the valve stem height, it is always off.
Also, bad roller rockers will cause tick/noise. If your head is noisy and you can't get rid of it, chances are either: your lifters are bad, your roller rockers are worn out, or your valve stem clearance is off. Even a 1G head with 1G lifters won't tick if they are built properly. I rebuilt my head about 30k ago with new 1G lifters, and i have not had one noise at all. My engine runs so quiet that you can barely tell it's on. I have also built about about 100+ 4g63 mitsubishi and hyundai heads within the past few years and i have only had two of the customers complain about noise. Belive it or not, your head can come out of the factory with the valves not measuring right. A worn out valve seat or a depressed valve face can cause the stem height to be off. Both of which can be caused by not breaking a motor in right (yes, a newly built head has to be broken in, although it doesn't take as long as the rest of the motor), or just generally driving the piss out of the motor all the time.

Basically what i'm getting to is that if you're plagued with the lifter tick and nothing gets rid of it, a nice PROPER head rebuild is the only way.
 
I worked for Carquest for 6 years and I have sold and used a lot of Lucas Oil Stabilizer. Its 100% oil based, no stupid teflon or anything that belongs on a cooking pan. I have used it in my 89 Cutlass Supreme for the past 200,000 miles and it has a total of 350,000 miles on it now so I know its not hurting anything. My Talon lifters have been ticking so I am going to try it next oil change. It may even prolong turbo life because of its extra lubrication qualitites. It helps keep everything coated and slippery to prevent dry starts. I'm sure it would help prevent the turbo from being dry when the car is first started. Lucas also claims that it doesnt make the oil thicker either so it doesnt plug anything up.
 
"dry starts are not a problem on cars that are used daily. It takes about 6 days for enough oil to have seeped off important parts for it to be a problem.

Lucas oil HAS to be thicker. That is how the stuff stays in one place so long.

I would much rather have lots of oil passing through my turbo than a small amount lingering for a bit. The oil doesn't stick around too long so it can't get too hot and break down.
 
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