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ModRacerDSM

10+ Year Contributor
53
0
Oct 31, 2011
Hanover, Pennsylvania
Alrite so I'm getting a quote on a custom engine. I Have picked out most parts I feel that I will need but need some help with a few. The engine is being built by Promar. I have heard mixed reviews about their engines so more info would help!

Here is the list so far:
-Desired HP output is around 400 with an EFI
-forced induction, havnt decided on the turbo, and im only aiming to run anywhere between 8-15lbs.
-I dont know what to put for lifter type and idle quality. Not really sure what that's even asking
-forged pistons and cast rods? or forged both?
-cast crank
-aftermarket aluminum heads
-aluminum oil pan, but I dont know if it should be deep sump, OE, or circle track
-single plane air gap intake
-conventional water pump. Or is electric better?
-MSD ignition
-flex plate or flywheel?
-Harmonic balancer, is it necessary?
-mechanical or electric fuel pump?

Anything I am missing, dont need, or need to change? You guys are much smarter and more experienced on this stuff than I am so I really apreciate any help and advice.
 
Ok so your wanting to build up a 420a motor, correct? I wouldn't pay some one else to build the motor. That's just me. But any way here is the answers to your questions.
forged both rods and pistons , wiseco, JE eagle, to name a few.
go with the 2.2 storker crank comes with rods pistons and bearings for a little over 2k
I dont know of any one that makes a aftermarket head for the 420a you have to have some one make one out of a block of aluminum, no point unless you wanna set a record, way to much money.
Stock oil pan and oil pick up.
The 420a has a mechanical water pump just get a new one and replace all, oil pump timing parts and belt.
Msd is better than stock.
And flex plate is for an auto and flywheel is for a manual transmission.
Get a lighter harmonic balencer, 80-100 bucks.
And as for fuel pump get a ( walbro i think that's how its spelled ) and re wire it, its the fuel pump that everyone on this site talks about, Im not to familial on it. Just know its a popular choice.
Best of luck getting the 420a to 400hp and have fun its not impossible but it is quite difficult.
Dont forget your megasquirt stand alone ecu, bigger injectors and advil for the head aches.

One more thing go to auto zone pick up a Haynes on your dsm and go to O'rileys and pick up a Chiltions, they both will come in to play, some things Chiltions has that Haynes doesn't have and vice versa.
 
I don't think an aftermarket head will do you any better than getting a stock head and having it worked on (ported polished etc.)

I'm also I might be wrong but you would have to push more than 15 lbs of boost to reach your desired HP goal.

Have you considered ethonal or meth injection, maybe NOS?

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk
 
Ok.. reading thu the list... you had me confused if you were building a DSM/420A or a SBC for racing.:confused:

Why do you want to go thu someone that has mixed reviews? Have you checked with any of our supporting vendors and see if they have something to fit your needs in your budget?

Check with JAM or SIM or Magnus.....

Ok onto your list

Here is the list so far:
-Desired HP output is around 400 with an EFI <<<< Good a Goal is good to have

-forced induction, havnt decided on the turbo, and im only aiming to run anywhere between 8-15lbs.<<<< Are you sure that will be enough?

-I dont know what to put for lifter type and idle quality. Not really sure what that's even asking<<<< That is for a domestic V8, solid, hyd., Roller. for a push rod engineYou have what is called HLA's or a Hydrolic Lash Adjuster for a style of OHC engine

-forged pistons and cast rods? or forged both?<<< From what I have heard and read the rods are weak in the 420A, so forged rods and pistons

-cast crank<<<<< Just reuse your stock one if its in good shape

-aftermarket aluminum heads<<<<< Your stock factory head is already alum. Do they even make one aftermarket?

-aluminum oil pan, but I dont know if it should be deep sump, OE, or circle track
-single plane air gap intake<< here again for the domestics for the most part

-conventional water pump. Or is electric better?<<< Domestics again, you have a mech, and if I am thinking right, it is driven off the time belt

-MSD ignition<<< Do you have a Dizzy? No you do not, so you do not need this

-flex plate or flywheel? Are you an auto or 5 speed?

-Harmonic balancer, is it necessary? <<<Yes and your stock one will be fine if it is in good shape.

-mechanical or electric fuel pump?<<<well I do not know of a place to bolt on a mech fuel pump on a 420A engine nor one that will provide the pressure needed for EFI. So electric is needed, up grade fuel pump/system as needed for your goal.

Personally, the first money you need to buy is some sort of repair manual and get to know your car and engine.

Next would be to find a diffrent engine builder/company that caters to your needs better and will have a personal relationship with you and your engine.
 
Just noting what some one said earlier, a water meth injection would help with your goals, not by much maybe what 15-20 hp max. but every little bit helps and stay away from nos until the motor is completely built, the stock 420a cant handle it. Maybe a 5 shot will work but thats about it and there is no point dropping 500-700 bucks for a 5 shot of nos.

this website has all the parts you need and in a convenient build your own 420a- do not select your rods pistons and bearings in this selection the other link has all that

order your crank and bearings and rods and pistons from this
 
Last edited:
Just noting what some one said earlier, a water meth injection would help with your goals, not by much maybe what 15-20 hp max. but every little bit helps and stay away from nos until the motor is completely built, the stock 420a cant handle it. Maybe a 5 shot will work but thats about it and there is no point dropping 500-700 bucks for a 5 shot of nos.

this website has all the parts you need and in a convenient build your own 420a- do not select your rods pistons and bearings in this selection the other link has all that

order your crank and bearings and rods and pistons from this

I was looking at that site before. Would you recommend peicing the kits together or buying one of there engines. I was looking at the lowe compression turbo short block.
 
Its always cheaper do it your self, plus learn to get your hands dirty not memorize a brochure. I have bought engines for cars before and I have built engines before i take more pride in building one than just dropping one in. plus when you do it your self you know exactly what you have done and you know where you may have messed up. First you need to drop 500-800 bucks on tools before you do anything an engine hoist an engine stand torque wrenches, ( foot and inch) valve lap tools and piston ring compressor, and buy the books.

step 1 buy books.
step 2 buy hand tools all metric, wrenches and sockets up to 24mm
step 3 buy the special tools
step 4 un do all the wire connections label where they go so you know where to put them back it takes time but well worth it
step 5 pull motor have a friend it so much easier
step 6 take trans mission off the motor
step 7 put motor on engine stand
step 8 pull a part motor put each bolt on in a labeled bag or cup for what part it came off of helps with install
step 9 take the bottom end with the pistons and rodsto a machine shop and the the pistons which will be .02 over and get them to bore the motor to the pistons and then attach the rods to the pistons
step 10 while the block is in the shop port match and polish the head use a dremal and a sharpie ( look up several vids on youtube to do so its not hard you just have to be careful)
step 11 insert the pistons and rods in to the block from the top with a piston ring compressor
step 11 install the crank shaft and crank shaft cover/ plate and attach the rods to torque specs
step 12 install the water pump and oil pump and timing gear and other timing parts
step 13 install the valves and vale springs
step 14 install the head to the block torque to spec
step 14 install cams torque to spec
step 15 time the motor
step 16 install valve cover and gasket
step 17 drop the motor in align the side and rear mount first then the front ( i go passenger, rear , driver then front mounts)
step 18 reconnect all alternator starter and power steering pump and ac
step 19 belts
step 20 connect all LABLED connections
step 21 review everything
step 22 review everything
step 23 make sure you have fresh plugs wires and gas might as well put in all new fluids and all while your doing all this
step 24 start car, if it doesnt start check grounds battery and all connections
step 25 if still no start check timing
step 26 attempt to start if no start go on dsm tuners

Use this website along with your manuals to help you tackle this job.420a " a proper rebuild"
 
Which is why its step 1. The manuals have step by step guides on how to remove and install everything and they have torque specs. It is well worth the 50 bucks you will spend on both manuals. hayens and chiltions as well if you can get your hands on a year specific mitsu manual (dealer).


Year 95 has 2 different sets of main bearings pay attention to which ones you need take off the old ones then order the ones you need i had to buy 2 sets of main bearings cause i was not paying attention there is a lil tab on one end of the bearing and on one set the tabs are on the left and on the other the tabs are on the right. Parts dinosaur, has images of the products you will get, its what helped me get the right ones.

If you have any questions feel free to message me for my number and ill help you get this done properly I just did the 420a build a few months ago and its still fresh in my mind. Plus im about to re do it to put the 2.2 stroker in the car.
 
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