Need help on Timing Belt Break issue. What would you do?

[BigJoser]

I was driving on the freeway, maybe going around 50 mph when all of sudden I heard a loud POP! And the car died instantly and I rolled to a stop. At first I thought the engine had locked up but upon inspection I realized the timing belt had snapped. I took off the little cover to inspect the timing belt and the timing belt isn’t there. I could only imagine it got all crunched up at the bottom (pulley area?). So at this point I’m stuck on what I should do. I don’t have time to do any work myself so I have two options. Replace the timing belt and all other items that need to be replaced “got quoted around $500” but I am not guaranteed that it will work because something may be wrong with engine.

Other option-found a place that can replace the engine with one that has about 70k miles on it with all the parts done on it like new timing belt, water pump and all fluids for $1350 out the door with 3 months parts and labor warranty and 1 year engine warranty. Are the 420A engines the kind where it has a safety system to protect it internally if the timing belt breaks or is it the other kind that will totally mess everything up, that may sound stupid but I heard there are engines that actually do that. So what does everyone think? What would you in my case?

This is my second vehicle so I really don’t want to pour too much money into it. I just really need to get it back up and running so I can use it as a reliable commuter car.

 

[miklaver]

thats up to you if you have alot of miles on your motor now go with the new one. if you can get the valves shut on the motor you can try to fill the cylinders with air and listen to hear if air is blowing by any of the valves. you have to do each cylinder with all valves closed in the cylinder you are working with and so on. you need to get air in the cylinder some how i use a compression tester that i bought at sears. i take the gauge of and use the hose with a regulator and turn the air up just enough to fill the cylinder and listen. if air comes out the intake you bent a intake valve if out the exhaust you bent a exhaust valve. you need to do each cylinder.

 

[tommy260]

You need to beef up your profile a little as to engine type, mods, goals, etc. From your post i've gathered that you have a 420a, will look into swapping in another 420a, and just want it to be reliable. If horsepower is not an issue and the existing engine has high miles then go for the swap. It is difficult to tell what kind of internal damage you have done when you throw a timing belt. I personally have never heard of the safety system you speak of coming with the 420a. If reliability is your main concern, and you want to have the same car 10 years down the line with minimum maintinance done then dsm's may not be the car for you.

 

[94_eclipse]

Chances are your valves are bent at the least. I agree with the other guys, it might just be cheaper to find another 420a and swap it in. But it wouldnt hurt to take a few hours and pull of your head to see before you buy another engine.

 

[BigJoser]

Rookie mistake fellas, my bad. I updated my profile.

So the car is a straight stock 97 Eclipse RS. My only goal is to keep the car as reliable as possible for my one way 4 mile one way to work commute m-f. Keeping that in mind the car has about 115k miles on it and it has been reliable from day 1. The few wear and tear issues have been dealt with so overall the car has been great and thats the reason i dont want to give it up. I have been kicking myself in the head for not doing the timing belt job sooner.

The reference about the type of engines that are not effected by timing belt breaks was the difference between a interference and a non interference engine. Apparently with the nons all you do is replace the belt and your good to go but Eclipses use the interference engine so the engine may suffer from internal damage due to a timing belt break.

 

[Locke]

All engines found in DSM's - except for the 1.8l 4g37 found in some unlucky 1g's - are interference engines.

The 420a is an extremely reliable engine, especially in stock form. There is no reason to stray away if reliability is a concern.

 

[BigJoser]

Thanks for all the responses so far. I decided to go with the engine swap and that is currently in progress. One of my concerns was that the car currently has 110K miles with the original clutch. With regular driving(no hard) how long does the clutch last? I contemplating them having put in a new one since they will already have the engine out anyway but they want to charge an additional 325.00 for the clutch since its a kit, I forget the name but its the flywheel included in the kit as well. So what does everyone think? I plan on keeping the car for maybe a few more years. The mechanic didnt tell me anything was wrong with the clutch but then again they can't see it since its inside of a kit. I cant believe how expensive it is, they are only charging me for the part, the labor would be free.

 

[Locke]

A clutch can last 10+ years if not mistreated. If you are unsure of the age of the clutch, or how it was driven previously you may want to get the new clutch in now while the labour is free.

I don't know what clutch your mechanic was thinking of installing, but consider a SouthBend Clutch Rally DXD for only a few more dollars.

 

[4UH8ERS]

Thanks for all the responses so far. I decided to go with the engine swap and that is currently in progress. One of my concerns was that the car currently has 110K miles with the original clutch. With regular driving(no hard) how long does the clutch last? I contemplating them having put in a new one since they will already have the engine out anyway but they want to charge an additional 325.00 for the clutch since its a kit, I forget the name but its the flywheel included in the kit as well. So what does everyone think? I plan on keeping the car for maybe a few more years. The mechanic didnt tell me anything was wrong with the clutch but then again they can't see it since its inside of a kit. I cant believe how expensive it is, they are only charging me for the part, the labor would be free.

Well, your clutch is a modular 1-peice unit with the clutch plate and flywheel riveted together. When you buy the clutch you get a new flywheel with it. Its hard to tell if a clutch is starting to fail unti it starts slipping, although with the clutch removed from the vehicle. You can visibly inspect the bellhousing as well as what you can see of the clutch plate to see if material is missing and starting to come apart. If you want another clutch in it to be safe. Modular clutches really arent cheap and they will be purchasing it from whatever auto-parts store is nearby them if they are an independent shop. As you can see the $325.00 qoute really isnt that bad.

AutoZone.com | Shopping | Parts | Drivetrain | Clutch Set-Matched

A clutch can last 10+ years if not mistreated. If you are unsure of the age of the clutch, or how it was driven previously you may want to get the new clutch in now while the labour is free.

I don't know what clutch your mechanic was thinking of installing, but consider a SouthBend Clutch Rally DXD for only a few more dollars.

Yes southbend is a great option! if time isnt of the essence and you can wait on the shipment.