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My newly built sub box enclosure.

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jacobevan611

10+ Year Contributor
459
2
Jan 4, 2009
livermore, California
It was recently just my birthday and i picked up a kicker sub and a rockford fosgate amp. Since we bought the sub, amp and wiring kit the manager threw in a free sub box. I used the sub box for a couple of days but decided I didn't like it so I drove to home depot and picked some 3/4 inch mdf particle board and a roll of black carpet from wall mart. My dad and I designed this sub box to be small and allow me to use my entire trunk but to be big enough so that my sub still hit hard. It accomplished both of those tasks. The entire sub enclosure, sub, and amp weigh only 30 pounds. It took about 3 days to complete the entire project. Here are the results. Tell me what you think. :thumb:
 
<a href="http://s47.photobucket.com/albums/f180/fit0225/jacobs%20photos/?action=view&current=car011.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f180/fit0225/jacobs%20photos/car011.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s47.photobucket.com/albums/f180/fit0225/jacobs%20photos/?action=view&current=car012.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f180/fit0225/jacobs%20photos/car012.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
Yea that looks clean! nice job. Too bad AWDs have the raised floor board. It limits the choice (at least height) of the box we can use. Unless we remove the spare. Would have been interested in something like that. Would have even paid you $40 to make me one for a 12". :)

Do you have anything that keeps it from moving out of position.
 
Looks good, small and light, clean and you still have hatch room.Also easy to take out at the track. Good job.
 
thanks guys. the box is 12 inches tall (all around), 15 /3/4 inches wide in the front and 8.5 inches wide in the back. It is a 10 inch sub. As pf right now it is held in place by a bungee cord LOL because I was too tired last night to think of what to use to secure it. I plan on screwing it to the metal underneath the plastic on the hatch and using a huge washer with the bolt since particle board is so weak a bolt would most likely rip through. thanks again.
 
Hey man, nice box! I did something similar using fiberglass. It was in a gsx, and it's a 10" also:

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(anybody interested in the box pm me, going to start a new 2x10" fiberglass box project)
 

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looks good i like that you accomplished the task and still have plenty of hatch space left

I'm going to work on building an enclosure and I was wondering what you used to anchor the box in place. I usually use wood screws but after driving around for awhile they dont seem to hold very well and wiggle loose.
 
Good minds think alike huh? ;) I am very pleased, It's a 10 also, taking about 180w rms. Fiberglass is pretty cool to build with. Have you been building sub boxes for a while? How much power are you running to yours?

To anchor mine, I ran two bolts from the inside of the box down through the body, which is near the rubber drain hose that drains from the hatch weatherstrip area. Needless to say it holds in there very well.

If you decide to go that route just make sure you use some rattle can primer on the metal you drilled/dremel'd through. After that you'll want to use some silicone between the metal and a washer and top it off with a nice nylon lock nut and you're good to go.

-Ryan

hey thanks man, that set up you have is unique! how did it sound?
 
Thats cool man. I'm running 400 rms watts of power and thats plenty for me. I never have it up all the way anyways. Actually this was my dad and I's first time ever building a sub box. I am very pleased with the way it turned out.
 
As pf right now it is held in place by a bungee cord LOL because I was too tired last night to think of what to use to secure it. I plan on screwing it to the metal underneath the plastic on the hatch and using a huge washer with the bolt since particle board is so weak a bolt would most likely rip through. thanks again.

instead of screwing or bolting the box, you should get some small L brackets and just screw like 4 brackets(2 in front and one on each side) to keep the box from moving. I removed my back seat and built a platform for my box and that what I did only I used something more appealing to the eye than a L bracket. I'd tell you what it is but I don't know what its called. haha
 
ya i already have one l bracket on the side towards the back. the problem is that i dont want any metal brackets visible. I want it to look completely clean how it does in the picture but not fall over when i corner hard.
 
I'm going to make a sub box similar to yours. Except look fully stock, so the box will reach all the way to the seats... but be pushed back as far to the pass side as it can. so I don't lose any real trunk space. Kinda like the Tiburon Sub. I'll end up putting a 1400w Pioneer Premier Flat Sub inside it since I'm doing the whole Pioneer thing again.

I used to have a Kicker CVT in my Talon with a custom box to meet flush with the back of the seatst, and touch the floor of the trunk at an angle like \ and it would miss the hump inside the trunk. But it was stolen. this time, I'm bolding this box down and the sub installed with custom screws.

I know I'll have to use carpet and fiberglass resin for the backside to get the mold right, then the roof, front wall and floor will be MDF.

I'll take a picture of The new Tiburon's stock Infinity Sub enclosure tomorrow. Since I own one.
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ya i already have one l bracket on the side towards the back. the problem is that i dont want any metal brackets visible. I want it to look completely clean how it does in the picture but not fall over when i corner hard.

The brackets I used are small, black and they are like a half circle on the top part. They look nice actually, don't take away any cleanliness(if thats a word).
 
Well my original plan was to screw the sub to the metal on the frame of the car but then I would have to remove the eight screws holding hte sub in and take out the sub if I needed to access my spair. My next plan was to get 2 black bungy corse (1 for the bottom of the box and 1 for the top) and attach them to hooks I would screw in to the plastic. I drove to my local osh and I couldn't find any black bungee cords. After that I decided that all of my previous ideas wouldn't be sturdy enough because I tend to take corners harshly at times. I then decided I would buy some L brackets. The ones I bought were cheap ($1.50) and they were sturdy and had a nice black finish. I bought them along with some stainless wood screws and installed them. Here is the finished product.
 

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No you wouldn't! Just cut the cover of the spare where the sub is. Honestly, I wont ever install my sub the way you did, anymore. It will be bolted down from the inside, and with special screws holding the sub in... Too many theifs.

All you'd have to do is cut the carper and the hard paper board thing... right up against the sub. Bolt the sub down and boom your done, sub is bolted down and safe and you can still remove your spare.
 
:ohdamn: Why didn't I think of that? Well maybe when I have some free time I'll try your idea. Another thing is I don't really have to worry about thieves where i'm from and that's besides the fact that it is impossible to see what's inside the trunk.
 
I always usually do that, Like I did it to my accord. Box was bolted from the inside of the box, through the frame with alot of screws. You couldn't move the box at all. We tried. My friend almost broke the face off the box. Then I got these special screws that are like a Hex/star with a pin except has one more or one less pin than the other style. So you have to save the special drill bit, which I have a few of them layin around. I used those for the sub.

Cause in all reality, if your going to steal someones system, what tools are you going to bring honestly? LOL

I was about to do that to the custom built box I had for the 1g AWD trunk. I was talking to this guy I know that doesn't live here about it. I told him my system was already done just cause I didn't trust him. Told him how I save my stuff from being stolen is I try to steal it then fix what is wrong. Think like a theif ya know. Well the day I was going to bolt everything down, my window was shattered and everything stolen. This was the day my alarm was down because of a dead remote. Ironic!

But anyway, you want to save stuff from being stolen, think like a thief, steal your own shit. Then mod it to where its a PITA. Honestly right now it would take a theif a couple days to honestly steal my car. Best way would be to have a flatbed haul off with the car, then work on it from there.
 
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