link causing idle surge? log and video included

[dsmcoder]

Ever sense I installed ecmlink v3 and my afpr I have been having idle surge while my car is warmed up. I thought that this issue may be from my afpr so I reinstalled my stock one and I still have the same problem. Can anyone please tell me what could be causing this, thanks.

weird idle - YouTube

 

[Tbains17]

I had some bad idle surge for awhile just got it all fixed up I think. Many things can cause this. What I did was clean out your idle air control valve, clean the tb, Run some seafoam through your vacuum lines and gas tank, change the oil, change the plugs. Just make sure everything is clean of carbon build up. Also you should take the negative cable off your battery for like 5 minutes then put it back on, this will reset your computer. Hope this all helps!

 

[dsmcoder]

Well I already cleaned my throttle body when I replaced the shaft seals. I just seafoamed my car a month ago. My plugs are also almost new.

I believe it could be how ecmlink is adjusted and if someone could look at my log that would be great.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

You call that idle surge? True idle surge normally bounces one's RPM range from 800-1700, over and over and over. I'm checking your log now.

1 : Your TPS is off, by quite a bit. Looks like you're at .51v instead of .63ish. This can be debated. I usually dial mine in, by hand, for .64v and leave it there. TPS can make a huge difference.

2 : Your Combined F/T is way off. That needs to be as close to 0 (+/- 2) as possible. You're sitting at +16

 

[LiquidX]

Fix your TPS first and foremost.

Why do you have an injector size on the fuel tab SMALLER than stock 450cc??? WTF If you are on 450 stock injectors, list it as 450cc. This is how things get damaged.

Your deadtime should be at 0 as well for stock injectors. It will only increase when you go larger, not smaller.

Zero out your MAF adjustments since your fuel is all jacked up.


In fact, just upload this to your ECU.

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EGR is left unchecked since I'm unsure if you deleted it or not.

 

[dsmcoder]

Okay thanks a lot, I'll try those setting tonight and let you know how they go. Also my car is an automatic so I'm not sure If I need to change settings for that also or not?

 

[LiquidX]

Are you running the stock injectors 390cc auto turbo or did you swap out to a different injector?

 

[dsmcoder]

Are you running the stock injectors 390cc auto turbo or did you swap out to a different injector?

Yes 450cc injectors, the last owner swapped them out.

 

[LiquidX]

Ah ok well that changes things for sure then.

You will want to use a -7.8 global for the 450cc injectors. It would really help to have an AFPR to verify fuel pressure and set it accordingly.

 

[dsmcoder]

I do have an afpr that I had installed but I reinstalled the stock one to verify the afpr wasn't making my car run like this. When I had it installed I adjusted it to 43.5psi with the car off and fuel pump on with dsmlink. But when my car is running it goes down to about 40psi is this right?

 

[LiquidX]

Yes, that's normal. You set it with no vacuum source like you did, when the car is running and a pressure source is applied, it will adjust accordingly. You will want to have that installed and set to the pressure you are wishing to use and adjust that accordingly on the fuel tab in Link.

The percentage I gave is assuming 450cc injectors with fuel pressure at 43.5 psi.

 

[dsmcoder]

Since the percentage you gave me is at 43.5psi with the car off, would I need a different percent for when the car is running since I only have 40psi when the car is running?

 

[LiquidX]

Since the percentage you gave me is at 43.5psi with the car off, would I need a different percent for when the car is running since I only have 40psi when the car is running?

No, as I mentioned, the pressure will change when the car is running which is NORMAL. You set pressure either with the car running and removing the vacuum line at the AFPR or just turn the fuel pump on and adjust the regulator to the set pressure.

Don't worry what it's reading when the line is hooked back up, it should drop some.

If you want to run 43.5 psi, set the regulator to 43.5 psi via one of the methods above and set link to read pressure at 43.5. It's called base pressure (where it's adjusted to) and that is all there is to it.

 

[dsmcoder]

Okay I did everything you guys told me to do and I still have the same problem. Also the o2 sensor wouldn't start cycling when my car was warm until I revved it up to 5000rpm for some reason which seemed weird to me.

I posted 2 logs, one for just the warm idle and the full log to show that it took forever for my sensor to start cycling. Any suggestions to what's causing this would be appreciated.

 

[dsmcoder]

My car still idles like crap, anyone have another possible theory of whats causing this?

 

[LiquidX]

Get ISCPosition logged on a new one. More things captured the better even if you don't have it displayed. You can safely capture everything for data-logging to be honest.

Your CombFT is way off, you are at (+)13%-(+)17% during idle. That number needs to be at 0 +-4% while having your AirflowPerRev at 0.25 gm/rev for a stock 2.0L motor. That will get getting adjusted when you work on the MAFcomp screen.

Again, you did verify that the fuel pressure on Link is the same as what it's set to on the AFPR?

Aside from logging ISCPosition, you can check the ISC for burnt coils by testing it.
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/KibYz21IMA0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[dsmcoder]

Okay, the only way I could seem to get my CombFT close to that range was to change the global fuel to zero an adjust the deadtime, it's just kind of hard to set everything because during my idle everything jumps around a lot. My ISC tested good so it seems to be working right. Here is another log with ISCPosition logged.