LC1 Programming issues 2.5v dsmlink

[OgamiGST]

Ok so here we go all I need to know is what do I put in for the LM programmer to run properly I have the brown wire running to the rear o2 sensor white wire link is telling me on thing and the gauge is about 2 to 3 points off si if you could please give me the full reprogram info like all the numbers and where they go. I posted my log so you can see what Ive done in link the numbers there are 3 points higher than what is reading on the gauge

 

[GsxEcutioner]

Brown wire is analog 2, yellow is analog 1, set yellow as narrow band and tap into the front sensor input and simulate it. Brown wire to gauge. Remember to calibrate the sensor.
-shane

 

[OgamiGST]

Ive got all of that yellow wire can't be used to SIM because v2.5 dosn't have that function so basically I just have the rear o2 wire hood up to the brown and the Wideband sensor it's self is on a seperate bung on my down pipe. I just need the gauge to match what DSMlink is telling me so I need to use the lm programmer to reprogram the wires please tell me THIS info... and do mean recalibrate br free air or just push the button for 30 seconds and let go please be more specific

 

[GsxEcutioner]

innovatelc1orlm1install [ECMTuning - wiki]

 

[OgamiGST]

innovatelc1orlm1install [ECMTuning - wiki]

aaahh that is for someone who have v3 chip they are SIMing narrow band that's why they are setting the input 1 to a 1v value.

 

[snowborder714]

Read the first paragraph. That page was initially written when v2.5 was around.

 

[GsxEcutioner]

Read the first paragraph. That page was initially written when v2.5 was around.

thanks, obviously someone didnt read it, or search for it.
-shane

 

[OgamiGST]

thanks, obviously someone didnt read it, or search for it.
-shane

Sorry I had assumed it was for v3 SIM

Well I tried programming it for 2 hours and it wouldn't save the settings. The gauge just goes from 7.4 and cycles then at WOT it just goes up to 10.5 and stays. Dsmlink tells a completely different story, so what is going on with this thing do i need to do another open air calibration to get the gauge the match LINK? I really have no clue what is going on here I read the manual and programed with the 3.15v LM programmer because that was the last known version that worked

 

[snowborder714]

How do you know it didn't save the settings? Maybe I (or someone else) could remote into your computer and try, if you're able to have internet out at your car? I've never had an issue using that version. So if you open LM Programmer, Analog 1 still reads with 0-1v settings? If so, a free air calibration will do you no good at this point as the LC-1 needs to be set.

 

[OgamiGST]

How do you know it didn't save the settings? Maybe I (or someone else) could remote into your computer and try, if you're able to have internet out at your car? I've never had an issue using that version. So if you open LM Programmer, Analog 1 still reads with 0-1v settings? If so, a free air calibration will do you no good at this point as the LC-1 needs to be set.

Yes I set the settings according to the site you gave me with the 1v to output 1 and 5v to output 2 as well as the 9, 19 and the 4, 15.4. But the gauge doesn't cycle up that far it's just from 7.7 to 10.4. I open the LM programmer and every time it opens it using the lambda and the numbers that are defaulted, shouldn't it come up showing the changes I made? Also I read on how it doesn't really let you know that anything actually programmed sometimes the gauge is blinking and other times the light just blinks when I'm programming. Do I need to unplug the gauge and plug it back in? I'm really lost here

 

[snowborder714]

I'm sorry, but maybe we weren't clear around what the reprogramming would actually do. You're reprogramming the yellow wire (Analog 1) to have the same values as the brown wire (Analog 2). If you input the yellow wire as is to the gauge, it won't work as expected. You need to make the yellow wire mimic the brown wire, so you basically have two brown wires. This is how you get the gauge and link to read the same, because both of the wires will be outputting the same values.

 

[OgamiGST]

I'm sorry, but maybe we weren't clear around what the reprogramming would actually do. You're reprogramming the yellow wire (Analog 1) to have the same values as the brown wire (Analog 2). If you input the yellow wire as is to the gauge, it won't work as expected. You need to make the yellow wire mimic the brown wire, so you basically have two brown wires. This is how you get the gauge and link to read the same, because both of the wires will be outputting the same values.

...ok so all I need to do is program the output one with the same numbers as output 2? WTF ah man I could have had a hot dinner last night ... and just to clarify I will put in the 5v and then the 4 to 15.4?

 

[snowborder714]

Yes, and I'm pretty sure I told you that in your other thread about this topic. Let me go look and I'll copy/paste anything I find where I mentioned that.

Edit: I guess I never made it clear as glass - my bad. I'll have to get started on writing a tech article on all the ways and variances with how to hook up and log the LC-1 to avoid any of this confusion in the future. I post on this darn topic at least a few times a month

 

[OgamiGST]

You probably did, sorry sometimes I totally space things out. I had Banishedmonk install everything for me he just made me do the programming part myself, and I'm pretty much always in the dark when it comes to gauges and stuff mechanical I'm ok with but programming and digital stuff makes me nervious.

 

[snowborder714]

Thankfully they make the nice program and pretty screens to make it less daunting

So once you get Analog 1 showing the same values as Analog 2, make sure it's saved by closing and reopening the software. From there, you shouldn't have any issues with the gauge acting like it has been.

 

[OgamiGST]

Yes, and I'm pretty sure I told you that in your other thread about this topic. Let me go look and I'll copy/paste anything I find where I mentioned that.

Edit: I guess I never made it clear as glass - my bad. I'll have to get started on writing a tech article on all the ways and variances with how to hook up and log the LC-1 to avoid any of this confusion in the future. I post on this darn topic at least a few times a month

I thank you a ton for helping me out, I get really frusterated some times because I've been working on her for a while now and still have not been able to tune or have any real fun with her. I've done everything right as far as getting all of my support mods first, logging dsmlink, gauges, sensors and everthing. I just want to be able to tune and have a little fun. I'm not even excited about learning to tune because I don't want to break anything. It's my daily driver so I really can't afford a screw up. I hope this finally end this adventure. Maybe on a side note you could give me some pointers on how to tune through link safely. Banishedmonk did the idle tune that's posted in the log I put in the first message, if you could look at for a sec and give me your opinion I would be very appreciative.

 

[snowborder714]

From a quick glance, it looks great. Download the "early access" version of v3 and install that. There's an updated version of AFRatioEst that doesn't require you to input any data. The lack of input data is why you're seeing 10.4 values in the above log. Once you input your deadtime, it reads fine.

Only picky thing I have to say is AirflowPerRev is a tad low. I see it hitting .24 and .23, where it should be around .25-.26. So a small deadtime adjustment should be able to clear that, but everything looks spot on.

 

[OgamiGST]

From a quick glance, it looks great. Download the "early access" version of v3 and install that. There's an updated version of AFRatioEst that doesn't require you to input any data. The lack of input data is why you're seeing 10.4 values in the above log. Once you input your deadtime, it reads fine.

Only picky thing I have to say is AirflowPerRev is a tad low. I see it hitting .24 and .23, where it should be around .25-.26. So a small deadtime adjustment should be able to clear that, but everything looks spot on.

Ah thank you so much I'm glad to hear that, yeah I forgot to punch in the dead time on the AFRatioEST I put in that I have 750 injectors but I had to go back a screen to see my dead time and just totally forgot. I do know I have a boost leak coming from the throttle body, I need to replace the shaft seals and the Jpipe might be leaking so I can imagine it might throw off the AF as well. oh yeah and I have a strange intake manifold pressure sensor that likes to give me issues. Man Kris said your a awesome moderator ...he was right ! thank you again