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1G intake manifold nightmare

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Evo 1 2 or 3 might bolt up. I dont remenpber the port size. Thing is youre doing this solely because you dont want to put the oem back. You do realize a different manifold changes things? You need to consider what each part does in order to decide if you need it...notice I didnt say want it.
 
I have a 2g manifold and I don't like either because the pipe curves downard and kinda blocks getting to the bolts. That's mainly why I like the non bending straighter aftermarket manifolds.
 
The stock has a egr port that brings unburnt exhaust back into the cylinders to reduce nitrous something. I read up on all the deatails. There's more behind it reguarding emission purposes so switching to a new manifold that's not stock may lead me to not passing emissions. But I could always cut the eve hole and weld a new path and bolt the eve onto the aftermarket one. Though that would be impractical.
 
Wouldnt matter anyway because a 2g manifold has different size ports. You will likely accomplish your task of installation ease but possibly at the expense of other items. My recommendation is to set your goals and find out what yiu need. You may add things to that list that may not be needed but you need to know how they work. Not knowing is a recipe for disappointment or failure.
 
So whats wrong with the stock manifold? Why did you have to take it off?

Head rebuild. Well hoping that valves are bent or this is all for nothing and it's my rods....which a mechanic used a stethoscope and said it was my head whacking.
 
Hold up. Im not sure if I'm getting this right, but you want to buy a different intake manifold that wont even work on your car just because the stock on was giving you a hard time?

You should just stop and sell the car now. I'd hate to see you complaining in the future when you have to remove the turbo, exhaust manifold or 02.

Get a set of ratching wrenches and you'll save yourself a bunch of headaches. $25 for a basic set at harborfreight if you cant afford quality ones.
 
Head rebuild. Well hoping that valves are bent or this is all for nothing and it's my rods....which a mechanic used a stethoscope and said it was my head whacking.

This makes no sense whatsoever. He used a stethoscope to diagnose a bent valve? You need to find a new mechanic.
 
here they are as I said.
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Hold up. Im not sure if I'm getting this right, but you want to buy a different intake manifold that wont even work on your car just because the stock on was giving you a hard time?

You should just stop and sell the car now. I'd hate to see you complaining in the future when you have to remove the turbo, exhaust manifold or 02.

Get a set of ratching wrenches and you'll save yourself a bunch of headaches. $25 for a basic set at harborfreight if you cant afford quality ones.

I've already removed the turbo and the exhaust manifold. I got the tubular which requires me to bolt the turbo and exhaust manifold together then install as a unit. That was easy and honestly. If I can't work with a aftermarket manifold then I'll have no problem putting the 1g manifold on. Reasons for removing it separately from the head is I've never removed a head and wanted to make completely sure the're is nothing that will interfere with pulling the head off. Like the knock sensor. I guarantee if I didn't pull the manifold I may have broken the wire for the knock sensor. I'm not the best and I k ow you guys hate my methods, but 90 percent of the time, my methods save me. Makes me work harder as well, and I do appriciate every ones help more than they will belive.
 
And no I do not want to buy a damn cheaper manifold that won't work for my car. I want to buy one that will. That is why I posted the two I found. I check in with this site before I move forward of my own accord because I care about my car and acknowledge the fact that I am still a noob when it comes to this car.
 
What will bolt on and what will "work" are different things. Im not a manifold expert. Consult those that are.
I have to say by your own admission your methods are very splattered and all over the place. You claim to know what you want but youre all over the map in trying to get there.
 
What will bolt on and what will "work" are different things. Im not a manifold expert. Consult those that are.
I have to say by your own admission your methods are very splattered and all over the place. You claim to know what you want but youre all over the map in trying to get there.

I know. The reason my methods are splattered and all over the place is because that's how I think. If I want to do something I don't just think of a couple ways it can play out I think of all of them, then research each possibility. Or at least try to....people here don't seem to like that about me.
 
It's good advice. And I'll take it, but it doesn't help that one part of me just wants to see my car shooting down a drag strip on video or even out accelerating a must and. You know?
 
I know what a mechanics stethoscope is. Im saying you need a new mechanic because the use of one will not tell you you have a bent valve. A proper test is a compression test followed by a leak down test. This will show the motors health and narrow down any issues to specific areas so you dont have to do a blind guess.

Anyways, the manifolds you posted wont work as they are for the 2g 7 bolt's with smaller runners. You have to run the same generation manifold as the head(excluding the 93-94 7 bolts)
 
I know what a mechanics stethoscope is. Im saying you need a new mechanic because the use of one will not tell you you have a bent valve. A proper test is a compression test followed by a leak down test. This will show the motors health and narrow down any issues to specific areas so you dont have to do a blind guess.

Anyways, the manifolds you posted wont work as they are for the 2g 7 bolt's with smaller runners. You have to run the same generation manifold as the head(excluding the 93-94 7 bolts)

In his defense. He said the noise was coming from the head. And that is disappointing to hear, guess they mislabled the 1g VR4 manifold?
 
I know what a mechanics stethoscope is. Im saying you need a new mechanic because the use of one will not tell you you have a bent valve. A proper test is a compression test followed by a leak down test. This will show the motors health and narrow down any issues to specific areas so you dont have to do a blind guess.

Anyways, the manifolds you posted wont work as they are for the 2g 7 bolt's with smaller runners. You have to run the same generation manifold as the head(excluding the 93-94 7 bolts)

I'm doing a compression test tomorrow. Hand cranking. How many tones should I compress each cylinder? Do 5 full top to bottom rotations, or 10? I read it was just five, but my gfs dad said one compression stroke is all that's needed.
 
So did you bother pulling the valve cover off and to take a look around? And no you cant do a compression test by hand cranking as you will never make enough pressure to overcome the natural leakdown of a cylinder.

As for the manifolds. Dont even bother looking into them unless you just want to waste money and make your car perform worst (especially with a cheap ebay manifold with no r&d/testing)
 
Yes I did, the lobes look great for the mileage. Everything seemed ok, but I'm just not sure how I'd spot a problem since I've never seen the inside of a engine hands on.(museum yes as well as full knowledge of the interworkings of an internal combustion engine). Can I do this....I believe so. Cam gears were lined up, but for the three hours I looked and felt on the crank pulley. I found absolutely nothing. So after I suppose.....I could reconnect the battery and disconnect the fuel pump....Or just hot wire the starter and crank the engine that way.
 
Yes I did, the lobes look great for the mileage. Everything seemed ok, but I'm just not sure how I'd spot a problem since I've never seen the inside of a engine hands on.(museum yes as well as full knowledge of the interworkings of an internal combustion engine). Can I do this....I believe so. Cam gears were lined up, but for the three hours I looked and felt on the crank pulley. I found absolutely nothing. So after I suppose.....I could reconnect the battery and disconnect the fuel pump....Or just hot wire the starter and crank the engine that way.

Thats what you gotta do. Come back to us with some compression numbers. In the mean time, ratcheting wrenches are a god send. Grab a set, go at the manifold, and get back to us.
 
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