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I'm getting conflicting stories and need help??

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speedy_talon28

15+ Year Contributor
364
3
Apr 1, 2006
elkhart, Indiana
I have searched for this and read some good/bad things about extended slave cylinder rods. I have a centerforce dual friction clutch so, I bought a extended cylinder rod but, I have read good/bad things about them could somebody please shed some light on this subject because I don't want to hurt my clutch or throw-out bearing. thanks :)
 
I Got this from Autozone. http://www.procarcare.com/icarumba/resourcecenter/encyclopedia/icar_resourcecenter_encyclopedia_manualtran.asp

Hydraulic clutch activation
See Figure 10

Hydraulic clutch activation systems consist of a master and a slave cylinder. When pressure is applied to the clutch pedal (the pedal is depressed), the pushrod contacts the plunger and pushes it up the bore of the master cylinder. During the first 1/32 in. (0.8 mm) of movement, the center valve seal closes the port to the fluid reservoir tank and as the plunger continues to move up the bore of the cylinder, the fluid is forced through the outlet line to the slave cylinder mounted on the clutch housing. As fluid is pushed down the pipe from the master cylinder, this in turn forces the piston in the slave cylinder outward. A pushrod is connected to the slave cylinder and rides in the pocket of the clutch fork. As the slave cylinder piston moves rearward the pushrod forces the clutch fork and the release bearing to disengage the pressure plate from the clutch disc. On the return stroke (pedal released), the plunger moves back as a result of the return pressure of the clutch. Fluid returns to the master cylinder and the final movement of the plunger lifts the valve seal off the seat, allowing an unrestricted flow of fluid between the system and the reservoir.

A piston return spring in the slave cylinder preloads the clutch linkage and assures contact of the release bearing with the clutch release fingers at all times. As the driven disc wears, the diaphragm spring fingers move rearward forcing the release bearing, fork and pushrod to move. This movement forces the slave cylinder piston forward in its bore, displacing hydraulic fluid up into the master cylinder reservoir, thereby providing the self-adjusting feature of the hydraulic clutch linkage system.

Dont know if it will help but extra information never hurt anybody if it doesn't. And I know we're not suppose to speculate in here, but I dont think it could hurt to have a little more disengagement as long as its not TOO much. Is it adjustable? I know that some are and if thats the case then you should have enough to adjust either way I would assume. But like I said, I'm just speculating...

P.S. I also just got a new Clutchmasters Stage 3 and it almost seems as if it doesn't disengage enough also. I would also look forward to hearing some sound info. Wisemen?...
 
Try it without the extender. If the flywheel is machined correctly for that clutch and you have a good slave and master cylinder it should work fine once adjusted correctly. Make sure you have no leaks at the slave or master cylinder. If they have not been replaced they should. 30% of shifting problems come from these areas.
 
Defiant, I saw the post about how extend rods are a bad idea but, in a silly way I guess I was looking for other info to back it up. Well, I am going to use my oem slave rod and put the extended rod in my tool box, thanks for all your input guys :)
 
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