Identify this part on tranny

[sweet97]

I have a new TRE-spec AWD tranny and am having what many are with difficult clutch engagemant/disengage. between the slave and the master is another cylinder on the front of the tranny that the lines/fluid must pass through. Thinking on bypassing it hoping it will solve this shift problem. I have emailed Jon and am waiting for a response. Anyone know what it is? Mark

 

[eclpsegsx12]

its the clutch fluid accumulator....bypass it, it will help with what your having trouble with

 

[sweet97]

Man 98 Eclise GSX I hope so as I am running out of things to replace. $3500. In tranny and X-ACT wheel, ACT 2100 kit and new oem master and installation. Clutch fluid accumulator?? OK Thanks, I'll post the result. Mark

 

[splattj]

You should leave the accumilator in. What you probably need to do is shim the clutch fork.
From www.teamrip.com :
Shim the clutch pivot ball with a 1.0-1.5mm washer. By by keeping the angles at 90* you get the most effective stroke of the throw-out bearing for any given amount of pedal movement.

 

[sweet97]

I got the tranny from Team Rip and though the last recommendatin they have is the shim but not flagged in red. I doubt it was done. AAMCO installed the tranny and dd a great job. Jon said the fork is new. From doing searches there are a lot of problems and a variety of things that have worked to perform the "FIX". I will exhaust them before I spend another $400 on this tranny! Thanks, Mark

 

[eclpsegsx12]

theres a vfaq on the clutch accumulator saying that it doesnt do anything....i took mine out and my clutch engaged faster and better...1g's dont have them so i took mine out

 

[C130tech]

This Accumulator has to be removed.

I took mine out and also installed a Stainless Steel Braided Hose from a 1G with a 1G Rigid line (had the Parts kicking around).

You can buy a Stainless Steel Braided Hose for a 2G for about $20.

Hope this helps.

Ghislain.

 

[sweet97]

My car is a 1G AWD. The tranny is a new TRE-spec. It seems thaT mITSU HAS A GENERIC TRANNY THAT IS USED TO FIT ALL awd VEHICLES. So I have the accumulator. The thinking is that is just another place to cause the engagement trouble I am having. Jon Ripple said remove it. Is the ball for the "ball & fork" outside the tranny case? In other words can it be shimmed without pulling the tranny. Again Jon said th ball and fork are new and should not need to be shimmed but that it could be tried. The consensus is that ACT had some quality control issues with the pressure plate. thanks, I will post the result. Mark

 

[Defiant]

http://home.fuse.net/lenser/clutch_accumulator.htm

http://ca.dsm.org/FAQ/2g-clutch-fcu.html

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/instructions/2gclutchlineinstructions.htm

 

[sweet97]

Thanks for the links but I found them to be vague on just what bypassing it will do. I ask the ? will bypassing this help resolve the clutch disengagemant problem. I've gotten a yes it will, no it won't and Mitsu put this on and it does nothing! Somewhere I have an air trap because pumping the pedal does help sometimes and as I have said I have ALL new components and still the clutch engages IMMEDIATLY when lifting the pedal off the floor! Mark

 

[Mystikmax]

Thanks for the links but I found them to be vague on just what bypassing it will do. I ask the ? will bypassing this help resolve the clutch disengagemant problem. I've gotten a yes it will, no it won't and Mitsu put this on and it does nothing! Somewhere I have an air trap because pumping the pedal does help sometimes and as I have said I have ALL new components and still the clutch engages IMMEDIATLY when lifting the pedal off the floor! Mark

It does sound like you have air in the system, or your slave cylinder may be leaking, bypassing the seal and letting in air. Carefully pry the rubber boot back to see if any fluid is in there. Im put my trans in yesterday and I cant get into gear without grinding and my clutch engaes RIGHT OFF THE FLOOR. I noticed my slave is leaking, so I ordered a new one , and we'll see tomorrow if that helps.

 

[splattj]

The accumulator is there to make the clutch feel more appealing. The shorter the route that the fluid travels the easier it will be to chase all the air out. A properly maintained and bled stock hydrolic cluch system should work just fine. It's when you change out the flywheel and put in a new pressure plate/clutch that the geometry changes and you will have to tweak things to get them right.
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm
The Ball/Fork is in the bell housing. I don't know if you'll be able to shim with the tranny on the car.

 

[sweet97]

Mine has been resolved, "Praise the Lord". I had all new parts. TRE-Spec tranny, X-ACT flywheel, ACT 2100, new ball and fork. Replaced the master with an OEM at $150. to be safe. Nothing. Shimmed the slave rod with a bolt in the up the rod ends in. No help. Mechanic removed the fluid accumulator and welded 2 nuts to the clutch lever that the master rod screws into to get a longer throw. One acts as a lock nut. UREKA!! It is like new from the factory, 100% cured.!!!!! Mark