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help!!! i did somthing to mess up my gst...

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tturbolife1

15+ Year Contributor
144
1
Apr 29, 2008
westwood, New Jersey
i was looking around the engine bay when i saw 2 wires that werent attached to anything: red with 2 silver stripes next to eachother. and black one rite next to it. i tested both and red had power and black was ground when i walked away the red wire kinda curled back into its position and touched the IC pipes and started smoking. i had left the key in the ignition so it had power. i figured it was no big deal and finished up what i was doing and tried to start the car.......oooohhh nnooooo!. it started but no it doesnt read my RPMs and says i have 12 vac when 10 min before i had 20 vac. and it sounds like im running on 2 cylinders.and alot deeper sound anyone know what that wire goes too? or comes from?.
ALSO my AEM wideband says 17-18 and the SAFC2 doesnt read anything but corr and thr . no rpms or anything..
 

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i will do that now. but why would my vac go down too. im thinking it has somthing to do with the rpm signal?does that control somthing else? my fuel pressure is 43 and jumping really fast
 
The reason why your vacuum went down is because youre only firing on 2 cylinders like u said.
 
+1 for fuses ###### blew ecm relay fuse or battery fuse. Also test the wire again and see if it still has 12volt before you replace any fuses. Any check engine lights?
 
yes CEL was on from before and i dont have the software on my logger at the moment:cry:

just checked the fuses didnt see anything blown? i took a video but i dont know how to post it on here
 
:ohdamn: if you still have +12 to the wire chances are you prob fried something. if its not showing +12 you prob blew a fuse. If you can find out why the cel is on that would be a great help if it throws a code for anything electronic that may lead you to your culprit
 
it has a 6bolt swap you using the 1g cas? you should still be getting throttle on the safc even if it was the cas. is your safc set to karmen?
 
the car was running fine before i touched the wire to the IC pipe. nuthing was wrong with the car.. 5 min before the wire touched, i cleaned the plugs and after it started up even better and was running fine. the throttle and cor still work on the safc2.. no one exactly what that wire leads to?
 
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If you have checked all your fuses. I would say you need to see what that cel is all about that my lead you to the circuit thats messed up. i know it was on before but i guarantee it kicking a code for whats going on electrical wise.
 
my friend ran codes for me... turns out it was just the old code of ETC i already have ordered a new one last week so thats not the problem. any other suggestions?
 
Wow, you have the same gauges in the same order as me. I think you even have the same pillar pod LOL!
 
check the voltage coming from your alt while running. bad alt voltage will seriously #### with your gauges, I know this from experience, especially the no rpm.
 
are you getting spark to all cylinders?

il check that tomorw.^ as for rite now i was looking to see where the goes and i was reading in the manual it is the air voltage signal? anyone know other possibilities? What if it is a wire from my CAS and messed up timming? could that be a suspect? it is a rewired cas due to the swap.

Wow, you have the same gauges in the same order as me. I think you even have the same pillar pod LOL!

great minds think alike:thumb:

check the voltage coming from your alt while running. bad alt voltage will seriously #### with your gauges, I know this from experience, especially the no rpm.

even though before the wire touched ground it was running fine? how will alt make the just the rpms not show up?
I remember on my old gs i changed the speed sensor that was located on my trans and a wire came loose(before i got a solder iron)and the rpm and i think tach didnt work . could it be just a wire from the ecu rpm? and my car was running fine before with the wire just sitting there.... me being curious george wanted to see what it was, should have just left it...:beatentodeath:
 
If you've never experienced a bad alternator, you would be very surprised to see how your car runs on low voltage. Just a suggestion, wouldn't be a bad place to start, especially since your having electrical problems...
 
If you've never experienced a bad alternator, you would be very surprised to see how your car runs on low voltage. Just a suggestion, wouldn't be a bad place to start, especially since your having electrical problems...

il check the voltage now along with my sparkplugs to see if theres spark

update 2 cylinders dont have spark. 4 and 1 = no spark and its a 12volt power wire leading into the ecu and its also connected to the o2 sensor in the front and a couple vac line sensors.

i still dont understand why my RPM gauge doesnt work or why im only running 2 cylinders? fired ECU?
 
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You could have blew your power transistor unit or a coil went bad. My guess would be the power transistor, the white wire on it is the tach and that could be the reason for no tach signal. It is located on the intake manifold by the fuel rail has 7 wires.

Power Transister:
Stock (2g) 8 pin connector wire colors:
pin 1: blue-black (output to fire cyl 2,3 coil's primary)
pin 2: brown-red (input from ECU to fire cyl 2,3)
pin 3: black (ground)
pin 4: white (tach output to ECU and gauge)
pin 5: unused
pin 6: larger black-white (+12V from ignition switch)
pin 7: black-blue (input from ECU to fire cyl 1,4)
pin 8: black-white (output to fire cyl 1,4 coil's primary but leaves coil as blue-red going to single pin "engine speed detection connector", then from there to pin 8 here as black-white)
 
Time for an EPROM + LINK! :thumb:

I immediately suspected one of the coils getting fried but since you said the wire goes to the ECU, more than likely you fried that. All you needed was an excuse to get dsmlink right? That sucks man seriously but it could be a good thing (assuming it's just the ecu)...at any rate, good luck with getting it fixed!
 
You could have blew your power transistor unit or a coil went bad. My guess would be the power transistor, the white wire on it is the tach and that could be the reason for no tach signal. It is located on the intake manifold by the fuel rail has 7 wires.

Power Transister:
Stock (2g) 8 pin connector wire colors:
pin 1: blue-black (output to fire cyl 2,3 coil's primary)
pin 2: brown-red (input from ECU to fire cyl 2,3)
pin 3: black (ground)
pin 4: white (tach output to ECU and gauge)
pin 5: unused
pin 6: larger black-white (+12V from ignition switch)
pin 7: black-blue (input from ECU to fire cyl 1,4)
pin 8: black-white (output to fire cyl 1,4 coil's primary but leaves coil as blue-red going to single pin "engine speed detection connector", then from there to pin 8 here as black-white)

would i be able to just replace the transister?
 
would i be able to just replace the transister?

yes. they can fry too. It takes a lot more to fry an ecu than what you did. i had my wiring messed up for over a month of messing with the car and fried the ecu, i could smell it too. Talk about wiring up the mainwiring harness blindfolded. My friends transistor went because of the battery recharger being installed backwards.
 
You could have blew your power transistor unit or a coil went bad...
Excellent post. I agree, I believe the next step is to check the power transistor wiring. Pin 7 of the PT should have continuity with pin 10 on the ECU harness. If it does then I'm about 99% sure the PT needs replaced.

http://vfaq.com/mods/ecu-harness-2G.html

would i be able to just replace the transister?
Possibly, but back trace where those loose wires go first so this doesn't happen again.
 
now that i think of it, the PT was touching my UICP when the wire was smoking on the pipe!

the the PT also called the ignitor? or is that somthing totally different?

Possibly, but back trace where those loose wires go first so this doesn't happen again.

when i traced it , it lead to the ecu, the 2 power supplies and also lead to the o2 sensor and vac line sensors..so where does that wire actually go is a mystery. it is a 12v coming from the ecu thats all i know so far. the car was running with out any problems before this all happend so i cant complain. at first i thought it had somthing to do with the rewired CAS i did myself but i check it again and again and then i figured not to mess with it because it was running fine before.
 
I think everyone here has handled the question appropriately. Most definitely sounds to me like a bad power transistor. Just keep in mind that sometimes PTs act funny when they are under heat. So sometimes when cold it will act fine, but after driving it may cause misfire, etc.

Your best bet is to just find a junkyard PT or swap one from a friends DSM and see how it goes.
 
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