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head bolt tightining pattern

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theboss88

10+ Year Contributor
71
0
Nov 8, 2008
allentown, Pennsylvania
I'm putting my head back together and need to know the bolt pattern for the head bolts and the torque specs
 
so no one knows this pattern
money is super tight and i just need to know this pattern for i can get my car back together
 
Start at one corner, and hand tighten. Then go the opposite corner and do the same in an X pattern. Hand tightening. Then work your way to the middle, starting from the outside working your way in. Then get your torque wrench and tighten to 65-72 ft lbs using the same pattern. What I did was first tighnen to 65 ft lbs, and then retighten to 72 ft lbs. :dsm:
 
I am sorry to say it but that is completely wrong. You never tighten any mating surface from the outside to the inside. You ALWAYS tighten from the center out. ABSOLUTELY ALWAYS. If you do it the other way then you run the risk of pulling warpage to the center.

Tighten like this.

8 6 1 3 9
10 4 2 5 7

I would hand tighten, then do 25, 50, 72. You need a larger distance between the torque values. 65-72 really won't move the bolt much, or at all, unless you have a Snap-on, but mine would barely distinguish 7 ft/lbs for a final torque difference. Oil the threads with SAE 30 and tap the bolt holes if possible.

The 72 ft/lbs sounds correct. I only have the 1g service manual, and mine is 80 lbs and the 2G bolts are 1mm smaller diameter, so they should be slightly less.

If you already finished the job, then loosen them all in the exact opposite order (10,9,8...) and do it again correctly. You will be fine if the motor wasn't started and heat cycled. You might be fine if you did it the other way, but I wouldn't run my car like that. A car with stock HP might be fine, but still...
 
wrong again i show you ow is it

9 5 1 4 8
10 6 2 3 7
have to be done 3 steps first 25, second 50, third 80 pounds
 
I knew this would happen. The way I posted was straight from the way the service tech at Gillman Mitsubishi told me they do.
 
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