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GST dies at high RPM..help!

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kylehlub

15+ Year Contributor
56
1
Jun 28, 2005
madison, Wisconsin
I just bought a 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GS-T. 67,000 miles. The upgrades under the hood are EVOIII Turbo and o2 housing,Injen intake, Apexi turbo back exhaust, Apexi upper intercooler Pipe, HKS blow off valve, RC 550 injctors, Walbro 255 fuel pump, NGK wire and spark plug. Right now it is boosting 15 psi, which is fine for all the upgrades.

Just a couple of days ago, the car died on me when I RPM the engine around 7-8. It would start right up again but if I RPM it around 7-8, it would die on me again. Anyone got any idea why it is doing this? Thanks.
 
my car does it too. it is like a safety feature so that you don't blow your car up. i think it is fuel cut if i am wrong please don't kill me. :coy:
 
A stop light has three colors....
green: go
yellow: slow down
red: STOP


Your tach has nice bright RED hashes starting at 7

cross reference information above

:nono:
 
It has a evo III upgrade and tons of other mod..the turbo doesn't really kick in hard until 6-7 rpm...
 
kylehlub said:
It has a evo III upgrade and tons of other mod..the turbo doesn't really kick in hard until 6-7 rpm...
Who ever installed that turbo didn't do their home work.......That is whay they have flow charts and compressor maps, to find out if that particular blower will work on that car. My best sugestion would be use an electronic boost controller like the one from Apex-i and seeif you can get boost to come up faster! Also make shure you have no boost leaks and that you have plenty of intake and exhaust room! :dsm:
 
kylehlub said:
It has a evo III upgrade and tons of other mod..the turbo doesn't really kick in hard until 6-7 rpm...
You're bouncing off the stock rev limiter of 7500. Saying it doesn't kick in hard until 6k doesn't really mean anything, tell us what the boost gauge is telling you. A properly functioning EVO3 setup should hit full boost no later than 36k.
 
#1: Check for boost leaks. Make a homemade boost leak tester. Listen for high pitched air coming out of your I/C piping. If this doesnt help come back. Also tell us what other mods you have including FMIC, SMIC? size of piping and what kind of piping. Tell us how everything is put together. It will help a great deal. And please dont rev your car past redline.
 
Ok..here is the full upgrade on the car.

Engin://EVOIII Turbo and o2 housing,Injen intake, Apexi turbo back exhaust, Apexi upper intercooler Pipe, HKS blow off valve, RC 550 injctors, Walbro 255 fuel pump, NGK wire and spark plug.//Exterior: 5 zigen 17x7 wheel with custom painted match body color, WingWest three pieces high spoiler, Altezza 3 gen gun metal tailight .//Interior: Brush Aluminum Dash Kit,Indiglow dash guage,Momo shift knob and boot, short shifter, Apexi AFCII, HKS Turbo Timer, Manual Boost controller, AC boost and air fuel guages, Alarm with auto starter.

I understand that you should not rev the car too high but regardless, the car should not die even if you do rev it high...because the car is dieing, there must be an issue. The way I understood it is that stock GST peak at 3 rpm but adding an evoIII, bigger turbo allows it to peak later, eliminating turbo lag. A friend of mine said that it might be the alternator being weak and not able to hold that much juice. Does this make any sense to anyone?
 
Ok...reading on the info on this site is starting to hurt my head. Ironic that I am going to one of the best graduate school, UW-Madison and yet all these stuff makes no sense to me. Guess I will stick to books and not cars....And Shit Wilkinson didn't even get drafted, what a bunch of crap....Ok. Does anyone know where I can get my car tune? Name of popular place, or any place near Madison, Wisconsin? Thanks.
 
I did another run test today and found out that at

3000 RPM, boost is 0psi
4000 RPM, boost is 5psi
5000 RPM, boost is 10psi (usually dies around 5-6000 RPM)
6000 RPM, boost is 15psi

How do I get the car to boost more at lower RPM

I ran it at night and the car didn't die even though I went up to 6RPM (15psi boost). The temperature was around 70 as compared to 90 degrees when the car dies around 5-6 RPM.
 
Ok...i know this might sound stupid but I just want to make sure. A boost guage starts at the bottom with 30, 20, 10, 0, 10, 20, 30 right. When you say it's boosting 10 psi, you mean the second 10 right? Also if you have a set boost, say 10, when the car is at idle, the boost should read 10 as in the first 10 right?
 
Anything above 0 is boost, anything below 0 is vacuum. :thumb: You have to be boosting (as in driving hard enough for your turbo to spool up) in order to see anything above 0, regardless of what you have it set to. At idle you should be at about 18-20 vacuum.

20 15 10 5 0 5 10 15 20

VACUUM - 0 - BOOST

If the needle is at 5 on ^ this side, it means your at 5psi (or bar, whatever your guage reads out at, although you seem to be in psi)
 
Now based on that my car hits

0 at 3000 RPM, then 5 at 4000 RPM, then 10 at 5000 RPM, and 15 at 6000 RPM. At idel it's at 15 vacum. Now is this what it should be doing?

You said that you have to be driving hard enough for the turbo to spool up. I don't understand how people are hitting 18 psi at 4 RPM and 20 psi at 3500 RPM because at 3500 RPM, you're not even driving that hard.
 
kylehlub said:
You said that you have to be driving hard enough for the turbo to spool up. I don't understand how people are hitting 18 psi at 4 RPM and 20 psi at 3500 RPM because at 3500 RPM, you're not even driving that hard.

Hard meaning close to wide open throttle, or AT wot. 3500 RPM in 1st gear with the gas pedal floored going from a stop is harder then 3500 rpm in 5th gear going 70 on the freeway. At 70pmh in 5th i'm usually at around 0 to 5psi. When people say spool up times based on RPM's, it's usually at WOT, not just at that rpm in general. Could you imagine boosting 20psi everywhere you go? LOL!


Now based on your spoolup times, I'd say you have a boost leak somewhere in your piping, so you're not getting all the boost that your turbo is making. Either that or you may have a problem with your wastegate. It may not be working properly (not be able to close all the way), or worse, you might have a crack in that area (which is a common problem with stock 14b exhaust housings, but I don't know about with the exhaust housings that come with the 16g's). Take off your 02 housing and check to see if you have a problem there (wasegate flapper, cracks, etc.)
 
Check your gaskets. Head to Exhaust Manifold. Exhaust Manifold to Turbo. Even Check your turbo bolts to make sure they are tightened down. I know tons of people who didnt retighten them after letting it get hot and then cooling down. They always work themselves out. If any of those gaskets are broken they will allow exhaust gases to fly out. Check all nuts to make sure everything is tight. Im almost betting a gasket is blown or bolt/nut is loose.
 
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