The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

front mount insert

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Is this the solid one (not the one that just cups the sides of a stock rubber mount)? You just have to cutout the old mount and its sleeve with a saw and have the new mount pressed in. It really shouldn't cost that much for them to do. If they were to press out the old mount and sleeve, yes it would cost that much in labor just to create something to jig to press out the mount, but urethane doesn't need a jig, it just pushes right in. I've always just been able to use a hammer to get the mount in. I wouldn't charge anyone to just push in a poly mount.
 
When I did mine I burned out the rubber mount with a Coleman camping torch and then hammered the sleeve out with a standard screw driver. Took maybe 30 min to do. It's not fun and it's messy but it'll get it done!

Edit: Didn't know you needed it pressed in. What mount are you using?
 
It should just be able to get tapped in with a hammer. Maybe a 2 lb. sledge will do it, but a dinky hammer won't.
 
I just did mine a couple weeks ago. I used an air chisle to get the stock mount out and for the one that needed pressed in, I used WD-40 and a dead blow hammer. A large c-clamp would work as well.
 
Ooh it's the one that has to be pressed through. Still, it should not need to be jigged up on a press. It's a simple job, really, and anything more than $5 to pay someone is a waste. It would literally take me 30 seconds to position everything, press it in, and release the press.
 
You should be able to do that pretty easy with a large C-clamp and a few pieces of flat steel or even a 2x4 maybe.
 
Good luck with a C-clamp. They're made to clamp and hold things, not press or move things with a lot of force. I've had difficulty even pressing caliper pistons with C-clamps to where I've broken them. Then I took the caliper to a press and it took 2 seconds to press with piston in.
 
Two pieces of scrap wood and a large C-clamp along with some WD40 or better still, graphite lube. The oversize C-clamp might cost $10 at Home Depot and you should have one for repositioning brake pistons anyway.
 
All you got to do is lube that bushing up put it into the vice and that should get it 90% of the way in. Then use you mini sledge or a big socket to finish it in the vice.
 
ramsack - I didnt think they would want to charge me more than $15. I told him I did all the hardwork already and all he has to do is press it in. :banghead:

okc - tried the c-clamp but it pops off when I have it on tight.

bwhite - I think a vice might do it but I dont have one at the moment.
 
If you were local I would tell you to bring it to me (if I still had my press, too) and I wouldn't charge you for it. I've pressed one of these in before and it literally takes less than a minute. Have you shown any of these shops what you're doing or just trying to describe it to them?
 
ship it to me ill press it in for you I just did mine a week ago, i have a shop press, just cover shipping

it also helps if you have the metal bolt sleeve outta the insert when your trying. I also thought of trying a floor jack with 2 2x4s and the front cross member (not responsible for anything bad LOL)
 
thanks ramsack LOL

I went to the shop with the mount and told them what I needed done.

ship it to me ill press it in for you I just did mine a week ago, i have a shop press, just cover shipping

it also helps if you have the metal bolt sleeve outta the insert when your trying. I also thought of trying a floor jack with 2 2x4s and the front cross member (not responsible for anything bad LOL)


I was thinking of doing the same thing haha. Did it work for you?
 
I went to a shop already to just get a new ball joint greased and they wanted like $8 for having to put it on a lift. Money for nothing. I don't know how places that want money to do something simple survive. You'd think they would want to help someone so they return with future business.
 
I went to a shop already to just get a new ball joint greased and they wanted like $8 for having to put it on a lift. Money for nothing. I don't know how places that want money to do something simple survive. You'd think they would want to help someone so they return with future business.

You also have to look at it from the other perspective. Some places like that have found out that they need to charge for small things just to stay in business. I'm sure only a few D-Bags get a hard on for ripping regular people off like that.

8 Dollars isn't the end of the world. 45 Dollars for them to push it in is of course ridiculous but they have a right to charge that much because not anyone can just do it. I agree though the prices are somewhat outrageous. Yet they still do need to charge something.
 
With urthane bushing you typically don't need a hydraulic press. I do all mine with an arbor press (basically a mechanical press but with alot less force vs hydraulic & quicker speed), which I actually think is easier/better to use for bushings without metal sleeves. Without a metal sleev, urthane really isn't all that hard to press in. You basically just need to get it past the outer lip & then they slide through pretty easily. If you or one of your buddies has a bench mounted vise, you should be able to install the bushing. It would literally take 2 min to install that with an arbor press & thats if its being difficult.
 
No it was just a thought , I used the arbor press at work. Honestly if you take it to them and they charge more than 15 thats a joke it takes longer finding adaptors than pressing it in.
 
Another method I've heard used is to put your bushing in the freezer overnight to slightly shrink it if it's being that difficult. I didn't have any problems popping mine in using the c-clamp method though. I did have to hold the bushing over the hole by hand to minimize 'squirming' though. I did remove the center brass sleeve though to allow it to flex inward. There should be minimal risk of tearing the insert so long as you keep it inline with the mount.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 4G63 Forge Motorsports BOV
    Original Forge Motorsports bov. Adjustable with over 80 clicks on the dial. Nice to use for...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted WTB 2g half rad
    ISO of a 2g koyo half rad or something equivalent.
    • Michael Wucher
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top