The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

field car restoration.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

dsm'r sk1mp

10+ Year Contributor
342
1
Aug 8, 2009
post falls, Idaho
back in the game:rocks: picked up a 91 awd eagle talon for four hundred bucks out of a field. brought it home and I begin checking things right away. began with a compression check. c.1- 171 c.2 168 c.3 170 c.4 167 at first I could not believe it. I called the seller and he forgot to tell me the car was completely rebuilt eight months ago and he would be bringing me the papers and receipts:confused::hellyeah: I then continued on to find out why it would not start. checked for fuel pressure and injector pulse. No problems there, I then replaced the green top C.A.S with a black top and she fired up first try. It burned a lot of black smoke and had a miss so I killed it. found out it was because during the time of checking the injectors a wire got cracked and pulled out. fix the miss. I'm getting a code and I also had a check radiator light. So i continued on to actually fill the radiator and burp the system. Before I went to far I put some fuel stabilizer in and let the car idle up to running temp. I burped the system, filled the rest with water and the light turned off. As soon as the radiator light turned off the idle dropped to two hundred rpm then died. i checked the plug wires, they get spark, the plugs ended up being shot. My biggest question is did the plugs go bad because of the fuel or because they are auto lights....:banghead:
 
They are probably fouled from such a rich mixture. The coolant temperature sensor has quite a bit to do with fuel trims and can even give 1g's a very hard time starting if it has gone bad. I would clean up the plugs, check the gap on them, and replace your coolant temperature sensor (the one for the ECU, not the gauge).
 
I actually think they completely fouled them out. im going to get all new sensors tomorrow, the car came with two spare ecu one is an eprom a coil pack and a complete and full rebuild kit (only gaskets and valve stems) to for the car. im thinking the o2 sensor is going hay wire with such a rich mixture as well. i may be wrong
 
Don't just start buying parts and throwing them on there. You can test everything. I would drain all the old gas out before anything. Than change the oil and throw a new set of bpr6es plugs in it and do a boost leak test.
 
Draining the gas tomorrow. I am going to tear down and check timing as well I think it might be off a tooth. I also will be pulling the head changing the valve stem seals and goung arp head studs. Thinking I'm going to also going do a leak down and boost leak test in the prosses. No matter ehat I stole this car for four hundred bucks. Its got receipts on full rebuild about two thousand miles prior. Also in the process of painting the its already sanded hace the new driver door showing uo tomorrow as well. And its stick white color already so I'm golden
 
Don't replace or do anything until you get fresh gas in it. IT will smoke and run like crap with old nasty gas. You could end up doing a bunch of extra work for nothing.
 
They are probably fouled from such a rich mixture. The coolant temperature sensor has quite a bit to do with fuel trims and can even give 1g's a very hard time starting if it has gone bad. I would clean up the plugs, check the gap on them, and replace your coolant temperature sensor (the one for the ECU, not the gauge).

sorry to but it but is that the one on the thermostat housing?
 
sorry to but it but is that the one on the thermostat housing?

I am sorry bur I did not understand that question in any way... I am assuming that you are asking what thermastat sensor I'm replacing and I an replacing all sensors on the thsrmastat. I also understand all the gass will be replaced so I can easily rest for anything else bad. I also know in experience a far in a feild for that long generally gets bad valve seals due to being open and or closed for a long period of time.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted WTB 2g half rad
    ISO of a 2g koyo half rad or something equivalent.
    • Michael Wucher
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Coilover Springs
    Used pair of Eibach coilover springs from an old set of Ground Control coilovers. 2.5" inner...
    • RamenPride
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 4G63 Mitsubishi logo early valve cover
    Early Mitsubishi logo valvecover. “1990” All threaded holes are good. Has the 90 style vent...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
Back
Top