DSM Noob Guidance

[ScreamSalvation]

Well, I picked up my GST, it was bought as a project car and is definately going to take some work to get her running right.

Here is how it stands 98 GST with a 6 bolt engine dropped in. Car runs and drives but runs super lean at idle (in the 16-17 range) and when you get on the throttle at 10psi goes super rich (9-10) and bogs down. Next paycheck I am planning on GM MAS, Translator, and a datalogger.

Looking through the engine bay it seems like a lot of things are screwed up:
1.Po was venting BoV into atmosphere with no gm mas and translator (going to be fixing that asap before the car is driven anymore) Lucky the PO actually kept the car garaged.

2.plasic radiator where the spout actually broke off when I went to change the hoses (New aluminum radiator on order)

3. Shit load of lines in the engine bay t-ed off and connected strange. (Bov is on a T with the wastegate actuator, which is also connected to the boost gauge and also connect to two lines on the top of the engine)

4. There is a line on the top of the engine that is apparently under vacuum and closing the line (Line walling is so thin it actually makes the line suck into itself and makes a god awful buzz/whistle)

Questions:
After the radiator is put in and I fix a leak that seems to be on the heater line I will be getting a GM MAS and translator. If I go with the Gen 2 can I eliminate the need for a SAFC as it seems to do the same thing?

I haven't had time to go take pics but could you guys id the vac lines and any help getting them straightened out and in order would be greatly appreciated. I filled out what I could so far in my profile. Expect pics and more questions to come.

Any and all advise is greatly appreciated, I am not car stupid but this is my first DSM and turbo setup.

 

[talon_frost]

the T coming out of the bov should go to one end of the mbc, then the other end of the mbc should go to the wastegate accuator.most vaccume lines can be disconnected as long as they are capped on both ends. As for the bov being vented i would change that first, fix the mbc lines, then do a blt jsut to make sure air is staying in the system.

 

[nfernotalon]

Re circ the BOV, connect the MBC to the compressor or j pipe then to the waste gate actuator, see what that fixes. I bet most of your problems

 

[ScreamSalvation]

Car has no Boost controller right now so I will toss that on my list. Going through the FAQ the other day i saw a list of good MBCs.

If i decide to keep the BoV vented how well with the MAFT Gen 2 actually tune when compared to a SAFC II? Gotta tear at the BoV a little bit to see if I can get the horn the PO put onto it off for a hose if I recirc.

 

[nfernotalon]

You still need safc to tune im sure.

 

[talon_frost]

if you use the gm adaptor you can vent with no problems

 

[ScreamSalvation]

Looking at the MAFT Gen 2 description "This new version of the MAF Translator is a dramatic new upgrade from the regular unit. Borrowing technology from the Translator Pro, the Gen 2 now has the ability to adjust fuel + or - 60% in 1/2% steps across 14 RPM bands in 3 different load areas!"

Sounds just like a SAFC to me. Was wondering if anyone had dealings with the Gen 2.

 

[ScreamSalvation]

But my plans so far are get the car running right and well, get a datalogger to check things out. And then start cleaning the nasty interior and fixing the broken panels in there.

Hopefully I am on the right track so far

 

[talon_frost]

yeah fix the boost leaks and the boost control lines then your car SHOULD run like new its thats the problem

 

[talon187]

i run a maf pro right now i ran an safc2 and the maft i wouldnt recomend the maft....the reason for this is because the gm sensor only mesures how much air folow is coming in now the temp or density...i had to retune my car almost everyday depdning on weather....i would also say if you get the maft get an a safc2 fine tune it with the safc2...but i would spend my money on eaither a vpc and gcc if you can find one or a maf pro setup for speed density

 

[ScreamSalvation]

Stupid question I know but, when you refer to the J-pipe you are talking about the lower pipe from the turbo into the intercooler, correct?

 

[fatherbubble]

J-pipe is the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler. A J shaped pipe.

 

[ScreamSalvation]

Gotcha was just making sure, the IC pipes on this car are welded together so it is more like a large S type shape. Made theoretical sense for the wastegate actuator to be in that location though.

Off to work and try to get more cash for parts.

 

[Defiant]

Wow. Look how worn-down this path is. I don't think we're trailblazing.