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degree in 272 cams

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What kind of adjustable cam gears do you have? Contact crower and ask them what the cams should be degreed to do the adjustments on the adjustable sprockets, use locktight on the camgear adjustment bolts (### I've seen these move and come loose due to vibration, slippery flat aluminium properties or who knows why) and done.
 
to Kris: my friend probley is gonna do it, but he is lagging a week now ( im really just to excited to get this new engine setup up and running) so i was wanting to know if there were any shops that could degree in the cams,

Nito15: From my understanding of degree in cams; means to set the aftermarket cam shafts (crower272) to zero with the crank shaft, i think its totally different than degree in the cam gears. (I have AEM adjustable cam gears) but im not to sure on these two degree in processes.
 
I have HKS cams, proven drop in power over 500hp through the years with the best of quality, non regrinded and designed for the factory cam sprocket with no need to degree the cam. Unless i dont understand what you ase asking the only other thing would be to cut the cam at every lobe and reweld it to match the moving crankshafts timing somehow which is just too far out there to begin to comprehend why a cam manufacfurer would build a cam for a specific engine but not to work with it as intended unless it is tampered with for it to work appropriately. From my understanding ricer cam manufacturers and bootleggers typically ask for +3 +5 or +8 degrees on only the intake cam speocket to gain the correct "lobe timing" the cams are maximized/ upgraded for and very minimal degreeing of the exhaust cam for fine tuning.
 
ugggghhhhhhhhh

SOOOO....... every time you rebuild a motor, you deck the cylinder block surface and the cylinder head surface. After doing so, you have now moved the cam gears closer to the crank shaft. Because the tensioner is on one side and the idler is fixed on the other side, the cams have now moved out of phase from the crank. this is because the timing belt is a predetermined length. Its an extremely small amount, however it is measureable. The cam manufacturer could NEVER account for this, because everyone removes a different amount of material. Adjustable cam gears are the ONLY way to degree in cams. The valve cover should be taken off, and anyone with a degree wheel, dial indicator, and precise hands can do this. This way when you go on the dyno and adjust your cams for power, you can know your true offset from TDC and thus the likelyhood of your valves "talking".

Almost no one does it because its usually less than a degree and people are lazy, poor, and stupid. I bet you no one in SD has had this process done. Everyone just slaps on adjustable cam gears and turns them and sees if they "feel" more power. Probably the best place to have it done would be to go to a shop that specializes in chevy 350's and pay to have them do it.
 
tstkl said:
ugggghhhhhhhhh

SOOOO....... every time you rebuild a motor, you deck the cylinder block surface and the cylinder head surface. After doing so, you have now moved the cam gears closer to the crank shaft. Because the tensioner is on one side and the idler is fixed on the other side, the cams have now moved out of phase from the crank. this is because the timing belt is a predetermined length. Its an extremely small amount, however it is measureable. The cam manufacturer could NEVER account for this, because everyone removes a different amount of material. Adjustable cam gears are the ONLY way to degree in cams. The valve cover should be taken off, and anyone with a degree wheel, dial indicator, and precise hands can do this. This way when you go on the dyno and adjust your cams for power, you can know your true offset from TDC and thus the likelyhood of your valves "talking".

Almost no one does it because its usually less than a degree and people are lazy, poor, and stupid. I bet you no one in SD has had this process done. Everyone just slaps on adjustable cam gears and turns them and sees if they "feel" more power. Probably the best place to have it done would be to go to a shop that specializes in chevy 350's and pay to have them do it.
Click to expand...

I had it done to mine when I had my BC272's but they are known to be about 3* off which they were, retarded. it is a very good process to have done if you are looking for the optimal power where that 5-6 ft/lbs gain is a win or a loss of lots of $$$$.
 
kris i found a guy that does really good work, im gonna call him on wednessday, his name is Larry Holms, ive been told that he does really good work but the price reflects his work, i wonder if hopsings machine will degree cams
 
banishedmunk said:
I had it done to mine when I had my BC272's but they are known to be about 3* off which they were, retarded. it is a very good process to have done if you are looking for the optimal power where that 5-6 ft/lbs gain is a win or a loss of lots of $$$$.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't be surprised if your right, because BC is known for somewhat sub par products, but some cams are designed to have off center centerlines, see this fp cam as an example:

http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/graphics/00000001/graphs_full/FactoryvsFPCam1.jpg
 
If you where closer to me I could'a dialed in that sum bich for yah. I have the wheel, dial with extended tip, my custom made wheel mount & a pair of solid lifters. Thumbs up for getting your cams dialed in. No such thing as "drop in" cams in the aftermarket.
 
boosting_laser said:
If you where closer to me I could'a dialed in that sum bich for yah. I have the wheel, dial with extended tip, my custom made wheel mount & a pair of solid lifters. Thumbs up for getting your cams dialed in. No such thing as "drop in" cams in the aftermarket.
Click to expand...

I completely forgot about the solid lifters. I've heard some people say you can weld a stock lifter but I'd rather use solid or those manually adjustable race lifters.
 
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