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Complete brake job

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Th3ory

Proven Member
219
29
Aug 6, 2015
Centralia, Washington
I was quoted about $1000 for the local tire/suspension shops to replace all four calipers, brackets, rotors, and pads.

I would really like to save about $500 and do the labor myself, is there anything special to look out for while doing this complete brake job on a 2gb dsm? I will pick up a Chilton's repair manual, and hope I can do this job myself. I would like to go with SS lines, calipers, brackets, rotors, pads. Any advise, I haven't found a How to: on a full brake job while searching.
 
It also helps to have the car as level as possible with all four wheels off the ground via jack stands or lift, especially while bleeding the brake system.
 
1000?!?!??
Are you serious?!??
It's really tempting to change my line of work.
Go to rock auto.com
If you play around a bit you can get everything from the same place. I'm guessing around $300 for everything. I recommend staying away from drilled/slotted (if anything just go with slotted rotors) and using blanks. If they don't have the black e-coating on them already use rustoleum high heat BBQ paint on the whole rotor. The pads will strip all the paint off the contact areas before you get out of the driveway. Just a tip to keep em pretty.
edit: before you guys start tearing me a new one, I'm not talking about fancy shmansy overpriced hawk pads and rotors. I'm talking about standard centric, Wagner or brembo rotors and similar brand ceramic pads, as well as typical reman rotors. I beat my poor girl to death everyday driving down a mountain and they've held up great.
 
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chiltons is gay lovers with haynes. they are too busy having buttsecks to be much help.
what will help is the super not-gay manual (so not gay, it can knock up your sister from 3 states away). you can get the not gay manual and his whole family of not gay mitsubishi manuals from my mediafire page at https://www.mediafire.com/folder/5k14qlaulb9s1/dsm_mitsubishi

one thing i would suggest if your gonna be installing SS lines, is a good quality set of flare nut wrenches. They will help to loosen the fitting on the hard brake lines without damaging them.
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After the install, they pads/rotors need to be bedded in properly. Make sure you look up the procedure and are ready to do it at first drive.
 

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Why new calipers?

I purchased the car from a lady who owned the car most of its life, she lived by Mt.Rainer, each winter she drove threw the ice melt they place on the mountain roads, which pitted the calipers really bad, they are very ugly, so I figure ill replace everything at once.

Thanks for the input guys!
 
They look pretty rough, maybe a wirewheel on a drill, but I don't know about a wire brush.

The rest of the car is in much better shape, even underneath, so I figured I would just replace the calipers with remains and paint. However, I could try a wirewheel or brush.
 

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Those aren't that bad, I bet they will clean up. You can get like a 6pk of wire wheels at Harbor freight (if you have those?) for under 10 bucks. Wire wheels are very handy so it can't hurt to have them on hand.
 
If you're just doing a basic brake redo, just clean the stock calipers up and paint them. Saves your a couple hundred overall.

Now you could do an upgrade on the fronts to outlander spec brakes, and it'll only be about 50-100 bucks more than stock replacement, but a large gain in stopping force. Do what your budget permits tho, gl!
 
one thing i would suggest if your gonna be installing SS lines, is a good quality set of flare nut wrenches. They will help to loosen the fitting on the hard brake lines without damaging them..
Be aware that on many calipers that fit our dsms the brake bleeder valve is sometimes 8mm (mine is) which I have never seen in a reasonably priced flare nut wrench (maybe a $100 Snap On set perhaps).
 
Be aware that on many calipers that fit our dsms the brake bleeder valve is sometimes 8mm (mine is) which I have never seen in a reasonably priced flare nut wrench (maybe a $100 Snap On set perhaps).

I have a set of craftsman line wrenches (aka: flare nut wrench) that go from 6mm to 18mm, bout 35 bux for metric, same for sae set.
 
Be aware that on many calipers that fit our dsms the brake bleeder valve is sometimes 8mm (mine is) which I have never seen in a reasonably priced flare nut wrench (maybe a $100 Snap On set perhaps).
I don't know why you guys use a flare wrench here.
I put a box end of it (even better than a flare) then attach my bleed hose. When I'm done I remove the hose then remove wrench. Flare would be fine but unnecessary here.
 
Not to keep steering off topic, but I got a Tekton 6pc set from homedepot.com for $20. Probably about the same price from harbor freight. For the amount of times I use them I couldn't see any point paying more.
And I agree, completely unnecessary for bleeding if you don't have em.
 
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