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Clutch job this weekend in Novato need help

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finishing the job up tomorrow if anyone wants to lend a hand. will be up and started around 8am. pm me and ill send you my number or leave yours and ill call.

tourque specs on the flywheel bolts?

is blue locktite ok or is red required?
 
I did the rear main seal.

Then spent a few hours trying to get the tranny up and in the car by myself today with no luck.

Im exhausted, will try again tomorrow if anyone wants to lend a hand.

being on a gravel surface and not having a transmission jack sucks.
 
i was trying to get the trans in this morning and dropped the trans on my finger. crushed the living bejesus out of it.

done for today. i think im going to have to rent a hoist to do this.
 
Sorry bout your finger, I have a floor jack and a chery picker but i'm not in town this weekend. The car being in dirt/gravel is killing you, you need to be able to move the floor jack around with the trans on it to get it lined up.
 
yeah i have a nice big think board for the jack to move around on
 
FWD isn't as heavy as AWD, you can get a buddy to lean over the passenger side fender and align it while you bench it from underneath. This will probably take a couple tries, and it'll be easier if you remove or move the lower radiator hose.

With a hoist you can get it up and in in under 30 seconds.
 
finnaly got it bolted it. went and bought a hoist from kragen ($130). now that i dont need it n e more im going to return it. its was a biatch getting in alone and its like 100 degrees out today here now.

i jacked the engine up a bit it was sagging down, that helped alot. took about 4 or 5 attemtps but its in now. there was a casualty, the lower radiator host developed a leak as did my middle finger (crushed) and my index finger on the oppisite side got sliced.

tomorrow morning ill put the axles back in and see how this thing runs.
 
got everything back in and drove it around the block. sounds pretty good so far but the engine is surging. when i turn the ac on it stops. there is some whirring around the transmission while in neutral that goes away when i put the clutch in. i dont think I got it bled totally perfectly yet. engine needs a little bit of a tune up too. more to come.
 
still sounds like somthing is going on with the throwout bearing or somthing. Im hearing a whirring / almost grinding noise that goes away when i push the clutch around. maybe somthing with adjustment? hoping that I dont have to pull this trans out again :( clutch holds well but the sound is bugging me out a bit. any locals feel like stopping by and taking a listening to it?
 
I drove the car around a little bit yesterday. Hopefully it just needs to be broken in more. the throw out bearing is starting to quiet down some. I think its going to need to have the font axles rebuilt as I bent the drivers up pretty bad when i was doing the job and the other side has cracks in the boot.

test compression on cylinders 2 and 4 its was 130# +. I would have done them all but I couldn't get the plug wires off and didnt want to destroy them in the process.
 
I drove the car around a little bit yesterday. Hopefully it just needs to be broken in more. the throw out bearing is starting to quiet down some. I think its going to need to have the font axles rebuilt as I bent the drivers up pretty bad when i was doing the job and the other side has cracks in the boot.

test compression on cylinders 2 and 4 its was 130# +. I would have done them all but I couldn't get the plug wires off and didnt want to destroy them in the process.

was this done cold or warm? because 130...thats not good man. thats rebuild territory. not rebuild...i mean built motor time. :thumb:
 
it was done warm ( I would consider it hot) and the compression test kit was not make for an engine with recessed spark plug holes so i dont know that I got a perfect reading. I thought 130 was the minimum service limit. Whats the deal with the spark plug wires and removing them? Not trying to destroy them but I think I'll take the test again and do a wet test while im at it.

Im looking for used / cheap front end / axle parts if anyone has them. Also still trying to find the cause of the surge im getting.
 
130 is pretty low. 121psi is the service limit. even on my stock motor it was up around 150psi across. so your motor is technically still ok...but if you plan on making power then i would suggest a rebuild at the least.

and for spark plug wires...just pull straight up
 
Good ol' transmission job on your lonesome..

I did my swap all by myself and it was a AWD car (a bazillion times harder and heavier than a FWD, not to mention the T-Case) Within a long night I managed to button up my new TRE tranny (did it all by hand too, just me some hand tools and my cheap $20 Kragen black and red jack.. It helps being an ex college football player LOL) *I could probably do the entire thing in half a day, from start to finish. Drop it, uninstall old, reinstall new, reinstall clutch, adjust pedal etc.. And that is by myself with handtools. Even less if I used my air tools and a transmission jack or a hoist..*

Of course down the road without fail my ACT 2600 sh*tted on me coincidentally just as I had finished up with my long break-in period. *great now I'd have to do another fkin break-in period for the clutch/flywheel.. sigh*(didn't get a chance to enjoy it) So I switched over to the cheapy ebay XTD clutches I have heard great reviews on and I opted for the stage 4 but wanted the sprung 6 puck instead of the unsprung and needless to say, I, like all the other previously ACT users will NEVER go back to ACT. This cluch performs at a level that my 2600 could. (Better performance, better pedal feel, and literally half the price.. yes please) *Stage 4 + lightened Flywheel (11lbs I think.. not too light like the problematic 9lb Fidanzas and not heavy like the horrible stockers..) was like $300...*

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I don't know about the 2900s but as far as I'm concerned I'll stick with XTD from here on out. I just went with the OEM TOB (which is key, sounds like your problem might be you used the POS TOB that came with your clutch kit..)

If you did infact use a non OEM TOB I suggest you buy one, suck it up and endure through another uninstall because if you let that thing die/seize up on you you'll be looking at another clutch and possible another transmission.. One of the smallest parts in your tranny but its the most important by far.. but who knows, maybe you'll be one of the lucky few who gets away with the metal sleeved aftermarket TOBs..
 

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How long have you been running this clutch? Any problems? I have a local guy that NEEDS to upgrade. Since he wan't to race it (and it's FWD), I suggested an ACT 2100 pressure plate with 6-puck sprung disc and a StreetLite Flywheel. But if you've been running this clutch for 6+ months. I'll tell him to pick that up instead.
 
How long have you been running this clutch? Any problems? I have a local guy that NEEDS to upgrade. Since he wan't to race it (and it's FWD), I suggested an ACT 2100 pressure plate with 6-puck sprung disc and a StreetLite Flywheel. But if you've been running this clutch for 6+ months. I'll tell him to pick that up instead.

Nah I've been running it only a couple months with a couple trips to the strip. Snapped off some mid/low 12s. Studder boxing around 5.5K.. Daily driven.
 
the TOB was all metal. I was hoping i could do the clutch job and get this thing on the road easily but its being a pain. when the clutch is pushed in I dont hear any noise. when a release the pedal is almost sounds like a grinding noise. yeah i think i can do it in a day now that ive dont it before and have good tools. i just sucks to have to pull it all apart again :(
 
no problem with my act. had it for like 7k miles or so. it seems to be hit or miss. luckily other than josh, none of my other friends have been hit.
 
the TOB was all metal. I was hoping i could do the clutch job and get this thing on the road easily but its being a pain. when the clutch is pushed in I dont hear any noise. when a release the pedal is almost sounds like a grinding noise. yeah i think i can do it in a day now that ive dont it before and have good tools. i just sucks to have to pull it all apart again :(

Yeah all metal TOB = Bad.. sorry bro.
 
no problem with my act. had it for like 7k miles or so. it seems to be hit or miss. luckily other than josh, none of my other friends have been hit.

Well when I had mine it worked fine.. Just over time it wears out and at the track it slips more and more as the night wears on, especially with a street disc. The good thing is though you can dump the clutch with it..

The XTD grabs too hard to ever dump the clutch ..
 
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