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cas sensor- Need HELP! Going Crazy!

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dennis-1009

10+ Year Contributor
65
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Sep 7, 2009
Loch Sheldrake, New York
:banghead::banghead:
I have a 6 bolt block in a gen 2 car with a 98 head. I put the vehicle in TDC and I lined up the CAS sensor, I got the car to start for a few seconds and then it shut off and it would not start again. I believe that I wired the sensor properly, although I am not too sure. The check engine light went away for a little while and then the light is back and the CAS code is back as well. I do not know what else to try. If possible could anyone give me some feedback. Maybe the wiring is wrong or if there is something else that you may notice that I am doing wrong. Any help is greatly appreciated. Diagrams would be great.
:confused:
 
Triple check your wiring. You can download the 2g schematics at the ecmlink wiki page for reference, they may even have the 1g drawings. I think theres also some good 1g case info here at tuners. If the wiring seems all good, you may have a bad cas. I also hope your using a black top hall effect cas in your 2g because you end up with the infamous random misfire p0300 code.
 
Take your CAS off the head but leave it plugged in and with the key turned on (where it would be while driving) turn the CAS by hand. If your CAS is working you will hear your injectors clicking. If not, make sure none of the wiring came apart and if you have to swap the sensor out for another, preferrably one you KNOW is good.
 
Stock 98 ECU?

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I was able to get this problem fixed and finally my car was running perfectly. All of a sudden it would not stay running and after a few minutes it would stall and would not start back up right away. I pulled the plugs and cylinder 2 & 3 is flooding. I am not sure if it is a problem with the CAS or if it could be my power transmitter or another problem. I am going to check the timing just in case. Does anyone know of a way to check the CAS before I purchase a new one? Thanks.
 
You can check the CAS by using a oscilloscope and check the wave form. considering you probably don't have one the best way is to... look at the diagram "liquidX" posted above With the connector disconnected check
pin #3 for batt power supply voltage
pin #4 for continuity to ground
pin #1 4.8-5.2VDC
pin #2 4.8-5.2vdc
tests will have to be performed with the key in the ON posistion

Do all the plugs have good spark?
 
No the wires are on the top.
I checked the CAS sensor, I had the ignition on and pulled the CAS out and turned it and I could hear the injectors clicking. When I reinstalled the CAS. I tested the ISC and the ohms read between 29-30 for each. I installed a new power transistor and I checked the coil pack and it is fine. I still flooding two cylinders, 2 and 3, and the car stalls when it gets warm and will not stay running when I try to start it again and when it is running it idles high for a few minutes and then drops. I am not sure where to go next. I was thinking there may be an issue with the TPS or if the CAS is bad. I am going to check the injectors again in the morning and try to test the CAS again.
 
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