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Can some one help me please setup my Maf Translatour???

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hippy

15+ Year Contributor
322
0
Jan 18, 2004
chtown,
I have a 98 eclipse gsx with a 6 bolt and i cant semm to find out on here where my knobs should be set at? I have a t3/t4 scm61, 660 injectors , 255 pump, fmic, hks bov, and i really want a hook up my translatour but dont know where to have everything set at? ALso i should mention i have dsm link. Do i have to go into it and change anything to run the different maf?? Please help me thanks! I v read on here and most say set the aux to 4 and the rest of the knobs to zero, but what about them little sliders to i have to move them up or down?? ANd there is also 2 xtra wires with the 2.02 do i need them hooked up or just go from plug to plug?? Thanks alot guys!
 
i have similar set up, and you should set the maft to 450cc... i believe its Base is 0. Aux is 2, rest of the 3 knobs are all at 0's....

ill have to dbl check that....
 
The user must have access to some feedback tools. Although rough tuning can be accomplished by the seat-of-the-pants method, a Scantool is extremely valuable in determining the best settings of the Translator. The ECU does not update its learned fuel trim values all the time and a perceived change could be learned out once the fuel trim updates activate. Some amount of drive-time must be allowed so the ECU can adjust to the changes.

Begin with the AUX/BASE setting selected for the vehicle configuration. The AUX/BASE setting must be accomplished first since this correction factor is always active. Check the total trim at steady road-load cruise (35-45 mph) once the ECU has had some time to adjust. The total trim (active fuel trim * O2 trim) should be between 80% and 100%. Once the AUX/BASE setting is correct, leave it alone and adjust the other dials to accomplish your desired tuning.

Most cars will run very well with the AUX/BASE tuned correctly and no other changes. If there are vacuum leaks, the IDLE dial may need adjustment to bring the idle fuel trim into the center of its range. Conversely, a rich idle caused by injectors can be tuned out with the IDLE dial. If the fuel trim is ‘low’ (less than 90%) turn the IDLE dial counter-clockwise to correct it. The dial adjusts about 5% per ‘click’.

The MID dial is adjusted to tune the fuel delivery during mid-throttle operation, 1-8 psi boost. By turning the dial counter clockwise the fuel mixture can be leaned out to enhance turbo spool-up. Leaning the fuel mixture can lead to detonation if octane is insufficient. Turning the dial so lean that the O2 sensor shows less than .500 volts will result in reduced performance. The optimum, setting is somewhat car/configuration/octane dependent. Running the highest octane available is the best way to ensure optimum performance.

The WOT dial is used to adjust the fuel delivery at full throttle. . By turning the dial counter-clockwise the fuel mixture can be leaned out to increase horsepower. Leaning the fuel mixture can lead to detonation if octane is insufficient. Turning the dial so lean that the O2 sensor shows less than .800 volts can cause excessive detonation. The optimum, setting is somewhat car/configuration/octane dependent. Running the highest octane available is the best way to ensure optimum performance.

In RPM mode, the AUX dial is used to tune fuel delivery when the AUX Trigger wire is energized. The AUX setting is ADDED TO the entire fuel curve. For Alcohol and Propane, the AUX dial should be set in the lean range to compensate for the ‘fuel’ being added. Connect the purple wire so it will be energized when the Alcohol/Propane system is activating. For Nitrous Oxide, the AUX dial should be set in the rich range and leaned out only as the tuning progresses to ensure no detonation occurs. Connect the purple wire so it will be energized when the Nitrous system is activating.

A note about tuning WOT fuel delivery
Detonation (ping or spark knock) is the enemy of every engine. This is ESPECIALLY true of turbocharged and supercharged engines. Occasional detonation on pump gas is not unusual. Heavy detonation on pump gas, or any detonation on race gas, indicates a problem. Continued operation under these conditions will result in broken parts. Head gaskets, pistons, and bearings all take a tremendous beating when a boosted engine detonates. Avoid detonation under all circumstances.

The Translator is a tool to adjust fuel delivery and increase the performance of your vehicle. Like any tool it can be misused and can cause damage. Proper use of the Translator (using a scantool for tuning) will enhance the vehicle performance and owner enjoyment.
 
92_75i said:
i have similar set up, and you should set the maft to 450cc... i believe its Base is 0. Aux is 2, rest of the 3 knobs are all at 0's....

ill have to dbl check that....

Why set the maft to 450's? I'm running 660's to and was just curious.
 
I had the same questiong, but everyone I asked, i was told to set the maft to 450cc injectors... i honestly still dont know why, but to this day I honestly feel a better difference when its on the 450cc than 660
 
Rex2342 said:
Why set the maft to 450's? I'm running 660's to and was just curious.

i think its because you have to set everything to stock. if i can remember correctly if you 0 everything out the maft is set for 390cc injectors which are stock on 1g tubo autos. so you set the injectors to stock and tune with the dsm link. your basically paying for the MAFT to vent your bov.
 
What if your not using DSMLINK? (Sorry to hijack your thread hippy)
 
dnhieu said:
i think its because you have to set everything to stock. if i can remember correctly if you 0 everything out the maft is set for 390cc injectors which are stock on 1g tubo autos. so you set the injectors to stock and tune with the dsm link. your basically paying for the MAFT to vent your bov.

You are correct, but you are also paying for the translator if you plan on making more then 500 hp. At that point you have seriously passed the capabillities of the 1g and 2g mafs.
 
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