Can I make any boost controller in car?

[Coder24]

I found a boost controller online and I see that alot of them say either in car or under hood? What is the difference? Can't I just add some hoses and make it an in car boost controller? Also most incars come with a T connection thats made out of a metal box...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/IN-C...005QQitemZ150176790138QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW like that. Is that controller any good? The other one im looking at is a Turbo XS but it doesnt say underhood or anything. its standard.

 

[silverbullett]

I think you are talking about a manual boost controller. Those are the "underhood" ones. Hallman makes one that is "underhood" but you can control it from inside the car.

 

[Coder24]

I think you are talking about a manual boost controller. Those are the "underhood" ones. Hallman makes one that is "underhood" but you can control it from inside the car.

correct I am talking bout manuel boost controllers. but here what Im asking...Can I just extend the line a little more and use it in the car? also do turbo XS boost controllers have locks on them so the knob wont turn? like this guy http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TURB...011QQitemZ320175098714QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

[1point8Ltpower]

This is my first time trying to give advice, it may be wrong too, so don't quote me. I believe the underhood one like i have, you just adjust the pressure with a screw on the actual controller itself. The in cabin ones have an extension on the screw (all the way inside) i believe. You would like to have as little hose as possible, you want it to do its job quick, without having to build pressure all the way into the cabin and then respond.

 

[97 4G63]

Simple awnser to your question is NO you cannot extend it
hallman BC are really nice i got one in cavin mount and it works great the price is not bad either at around $140 from extremepsi.com

 

[Coder24]

Simple awnser to your question is NO you cannot extend it
hallman BC are really nice i got one in cavin mount and it works great the price is not bad either at around $140 from extremepsi.com

I used to have a hallman Under hood one but it was stolen along with 70.00 out of my car. so I have to find another boost controller. what does everythone think about turbo XS(the one in the 2nd link) and what do you guys think about the first one? the off brand?

 

[boostismyfriend]

Yes you can, i had one in my car work great

 

[97 4G63]

Yes you can, i had one in my car work great

Ok can you please explain how you did it??

 

[Coder24]

Yes you can, i had one in my car work great

please elaberate.

 

[xorti7]

correct I am talking bout manuel boost controllers. but here what Im asking...Can I just extend the line a little more and use it in the car?

To answer your question about simply extending the hoses that connect a manual boost controller so that it is in the cabin: Yes, you could. However, the longer the boost controller to waste gate hose is, the more boost spike you're going to have. You want to keep this hose as short as possible.

Personally, an under the hood boost controller will work just fine. Honestly, how often are you going to adjust boost? Find a good boost level and leave it.

The turbo xs, like pretty much any manual boost controller, has a lock so the knob doesn't turn on its own.

Just stay away from a cheap bleeder and you'll be set.

 

[oldman]

1. No, you don't want to just extend hoses all the way into the cockpit and all the way back out to your wastegate. The key in precise boost control is to make the hoses as short as possible.

2. The first ebay one is probably one of the worst I have seen, countless threads I have been involved in regarding boost control issues were associated with that controller.

3. TurboXS standard MBC is a bleeder type MBC (so is the ebay one), not the most ideal.

Basically, you want a solid ball and spring MBC like Hallman and Joe-p.....etc. If you want to have control in your cockpit, you need to do it right by going either with an EBC or MBC's like the Hallman EVO RX MBC. Lastly, make sure your MBC is not connected to the BOV line even if the MBC instructions tell you to do so. Good luck.

 

[tkelly27]

It might be prone to spiking with it in the cabin, and or not hold boost as steady as it could under the hood. The boost has to go all the way from the intake manifold, into the cabin, lift the ball, then back into the engine bay to the WG can.

A bleed system shouldn't matter, if I'm thinking about it right. But then you'll have a hissing sound when you hit boost.

Do you want it to be adjustable, or you just don't like popping your hood? Adjusting the boost while you're driving is dangerous and a bad idea. If you hit a bump while turning the dial you could have a toasted engine. Selectable boost is a better idea, here's a two stage, if you're clever you can make unlimited stages
http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-faq-fo...ing-your-own-dual-stage-boost-controller.html
solenoids can be had at junkyards for the price of putting it in your pocket, that would make the cost of each additional stage $10 for the MBC and $0.50 for wires. Still have to get out and adjust them, but once they are dialed in you can select whichever one you want.

psh... $70 boost controllers with ceramic balls... my steel balls are all I've ever needed XD

 

[Coder24]

1. No, you don't want to just extend hoses all the way into the cockpit and all the way back out to your wastegate. The key in precise boost control is to make the hoses as short as possible.

2. The first ebay one is probably one of the worst I have seen, countless threads I have been involved in regarding boost control issues were associated with that controller.

3. TurboXS standard MBC is a bleeder type MBC (so is the ebay one), not the most ideal.

Basically, you want a solid ball and spring MBC like Hallman and Joe-p.....etc. If you want to have control in your cockpit, you need to do it right by going either with an EBC or MBC's like the Hallman EVO RX MBC. Lastly, make sure your MBC is not connected to the BOV line even if the MBC instructions tell you to do so. Good luck.

Why shouldn't I run a line into the bov? the way I had it before was on an OLDER style of HAllman boost controllers(the one with the alan screw on top) well I ran the bottom line to the wastegate. then I ran the bov to a T connection along with the intake mani and and then a line from the T to the side of the boost controller. then my boost gauge to the P nipple on the TB. I dont see any problem with doing that? how else would I set it up?

 

[Coder24]

It might be prone to spiking with it in the cabin, and or not hold boost as steady as it could under the hood. The boost has to go all the way from the intake manifold, into the cabin, lift the ball, then back into the engine bay to the WG can.

A bleed system shouldn't matter, if I'm thinking about it right. But then you'll have a hissing sound when you hit boost.

Do you want it to be adjustable, or you just don't like popping your hood? Adjusting the boost while you're driving is dangerous and a bad idea. If you hit a bump while turning the dial you could have a toasted engine. Selectable boost is a better idea, here's a two stage, if you're clever you can make unlimited stages
http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-faq-fo...ing-your-own-dual-stage-boost-controller.html
solenoids can be had at junkyards for the price of putting it in your pocket, that would make the cost of each additional stage $10 for the MBC and $0.50 for wires. Still have to get out and adjust them, but once they are dialed in you can select whichever one you want.

psh... $70 boost controllers with ceramic balls... my steel balls are all I've ever needed XD

I just dont want to be popping the hood all the time. how long is the cable on the hallman pro boost? roughly where should it sit in the engine bay? where is a good place to mount the cabin knob in a 1ga

 

[oldman]

Why shouldn't I run a line into the bov?

This issue has been beaten to death. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=237982

 

[Coder24]

This issue has been beaten to death. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=237982

Ok well how am I supposed to do that when the 14b doesnt have a J nipple on it? Thats a great question. Please inform me on this. Also where would the BOV line be ran to? Into the intake manifold hole or into the TB?

 

[oldman]

ok well how am i supposed to do that when the 14b doesnt have a J nipple on it? thats a great question. please inform me on this.

You drill and tap a 1/8 npt to 1/8" fitting onto your SBR j-pipe. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=269122

also where would the Bov line be ran to? into the intake manifold hole or into the TB?

The stock location, the fitting on the front of the IM right behind the #3 injector.

BTW please use proper caps when posting in the tech sections.

 

[Coder24]

You drill and tap a 1/8 npt to 1/8" fitting onto your SBR j-pipe. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=269122


The stock location, the fitting on the front of the IM right behind the #3 injector.

BTW please use proper caps when posting in the tech sections.

Ok...Wouldn't it be pointless to tap the J-pipe since its only like 1/8" thick? I think for now I'll leave it the way it is then later on down the road ill re-do the lines. Thanks for the input! Aaron.

 

[oldman]

Ok...Wouldn't it be pointless to tap the J-pipe since its only like 1/8" thick? I think for now I'll leave it the way it is then later on down the road ill re-do the lines. Thanks for the input! Aaron.

If you're going to leave it where it is for now,

1. Make sure your BOV is recirculated because your BOV will be partially open under boost due to pressure bleed on the BOV line, expect slower spool as well as higher intake temp due to the opened BOV.

2. Make certain that you don't buy a bleeder type MBC, having a bleeder type valve on the BOV line will not only cause your BOV to partially open under boost, it can also cause BOV flutter/compressor surge after letting off because a bleeder type valve not only is a boost leak under boost, it's also a vacuum leak reducing the amount of vacuum supplied to the BOV after letting off, it will also introduce un-metered air into your system during idle and part throttle since the BOV line is connected to the intake manifold.

 

[Coder24]

If you're going to leave it where it is for now,

1. Make sure your BOV is recirculated because your BOV will be partially open under boost due to pressure bleed on the BOV line, expect slower spool as well as higher intake temp due to the opened BOV.

2. Make certain that you don't buy a bleeder type MBC, having a bleeder type valve on the BOV line will not only cause your BOV to partially open under boost, it can also cause BOV flutter/compressor surge after letting off because a bleeder type valve not only is a boost leak under boost, it's also a vacuum leak reducing the amount of vacuum supplied to the BOV after letting off, it will also introduce un-metered air into your system during idle and part throttle since the BOV line is connected to the intake manifold.

its recirc...and i am trying to find a Halman Pro boost controller

 

[JDM_DSM]

I just dont want to be popping the hood all the time.

How often do you plan on adjusting your boost? Popping the hood and twisting a knob takes all of 1 minute.
I would suggest making a dual stage controller. It can be done a bit simpler than the mx6 link suggested.
Basically for mine I used 2 switchable solenoids from the junkyard and wired them to a switch in the car. The solenoids set up 2 routes for the air from the boost source to go, depending on the switch, one is a direct line, which runs 9psi for cruising and fuel economy, the other one runs through my MBC and is set to whatever I want for high boost mode.
It's connected to a 3-way switch right now, so I might add in my stock boost solenoid to make 3 settings (9psi, 12psi, user selectable). Of course if you feel the need you could also replace the stock boost solenoid with a second MBC and have 2 user selectable boost points.

The biggest advantage I see is that once the MBC is set I can just flick a switch and instantly be at a pre-determined boost level. With something like the Hallman pro you're going to have to set it, then figure out some way of remembering which knob position means what boost level. That seems pretty inconvenient to me.