broke a bolt of the turbo exhaust man... how do I get it out? pics included

[KillerX]

Well heres my first post and its not a good one...

well i broke the bolt off my turbo exhaust manifold but now the question is how do i get it out? i was thinking of putting a nut on it welding it then trying to take it out but im afraid itll break more inside

any suggestions?

ohh ya i got a nice pic of the old manifold down here too

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heres the old manifold think its still good?

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Brad

 

[forcefed4]

one of mine did that.

I just soaked it in rustbuster for a couple of hours and then it just came out with a pair of pliers.

 

[exile]

What I do at construction sites when something like that happens (never tried it in my car but it should work) is soak it in a 'deep penetrating' lubricant.. tap on it a little bit to let the stuff get into the threads and I take Locking Pliers (@ sears) and clamp down on that thing as hard as I can and slowly turn it out.

If it's so stuck to the point that it breaks off again (never seen that) you're going to have to go to extreme messures.

And be slow and careful, it's obvious when it's about to snap. It only takes 1 time for you to learn when to stop turning .

 

[twack]

Holy rust buckets batman!!!

 

[KillerX]

ha ha thanks guys for all your help i may try that and maybe weld the bolt on there as well since i have a welder just sitting here.
Ohh ya taking off my manifold wasent the only prob... now I got a new one as a result of this...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=50376786#post50376786


twack, Ya Canada sucks for rust my g/fs 2005 Toyota Celica has rust on it already

Brad

 

[sakrafice]

Heat the bolt up, it will expand and u should be able to use some vice scripts and take it out.

 

[ROOKIE1]

pb blaster , wd40

 

[GTM]

...
is soak it in a 'deep penetrating' lubricant.. tap on it a little bit to let the stuff get into the threads and I take Locking Pliers (@ sears) and clamp down on that thing as hard as I can and slowly turn it out.

If it's so stuck to the point that it breaks off again (never seen that) you're going to have to go to extreme messures.

And be slow and careful, it's obvious when it's about to snap. It only takes 1 time for you to learn when to stop turning .

All good advice, WD-40 works quite well. Give it a couple of good smacks with hammer. ViceGrips 7"-8" long, set as close to the throat, clamp, release, turn screw 1/4 turn and clamp again. Work the ViceGrips back and forth with more pressure on the unscrew each time.

If it breaks again and it is quite possible, smack with hammer, center punch exact center and start with 1/8" drill all the way through,, next 1/4" drill. Take the old bolt and find the correct closest undersize drill by puting it in drill index, drill carefully and you will have a very thin sleeve which you can dig out with a nail or pick set. I would avoid using an "EasyOut" or broken bolt extractor, sue good quality drill bits, keep the metal chips out of the turbo.
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The probable reason it broke was from the crack allowing hot gas to be directed at the bolt, the stud may be suspect so don't overtorque.

Let us know how it works out.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[keymaster]

GTM, any advice on what kind of drill bit to use on a broken turbo bolt? I snapped one off in my turbine housing, and really need to get it out. They're grade 11 bolts, and we dulled a titanium/carbide bit trying to drill it.

 

[GTM]

GTM, any advice on what kind of drill bit to use on a broken turbo bolt? I snapped one off in my turbine housing, and really need to get it out. They're grade 11 bolts, and we dulled a titanium/carbide bit trying to drill it.

I'm of the opinion these tungston drills are nothing but a bunch of G.D. hype. They don't drill worth crap and I sharpen my own drill angles for the metal being drilled and they won't hold an edge.

Go to the hardware store and buy (HS?) Hansons in (2) 1/16, (2) 1/8, (2) 1/4, sizes. (maybe $3 total) These will get you pilot holes for other sizes. If you look at the end of the drill you see a flat area that has to wear it's way through, by drilling a pilot hole the next size misses the flat and uses the cutting edge more effectively.

As a general rule a drill bit cuts best at just over stalling speed so don't stand on the trigger or lean on the drill motor when 200 rpm gets a perfect curl or chips flying.. WD-40 is pretty good cutting solvent for automotive applications so don't forget to keep spraying. Patience, patience, patience, center punch you work, don't be in a hurry

Some day I'm going to write a Tech Guide to drills, cutting angles, kerf relief, and hand sharpening with a grinder.

Let me know if this solves your problem.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[keymaster]

Thanks a ton, GTM, I'll see if I can find those bits. Do you know off-hand what material they are made of?

 

[KillerX]

GTM, great info on the drilling kept this in my dsm info bookmarks
Brad

 

[Twinky-Ninja]

Have you tried drilling a small hole on the top of the broken stud, and using an easyout drill bit? They have pulled through for me many times.

dave

 

[Perfect Tool]

Have you tried drilling a small hole on the top of the broken stud, and using an easyout drill bit? They have pulled through for me many times.

dave

Thats what I was going to say, drill a hole in the center then just hammer it out if it just doesn't turn into powder when you drill haha..

Either that or hit it with a hammer until it pops out, works with tripped stuff all the time too.

 

[Talesin]

Had one get so stuck that I couldn't drill it out after it'd snapped off. Wore through five or six bits without leaving much more than a scratch, gave up and just bought a new exhaust housing. Thankfully my mechanic knew how to rebuild turbos, so just popped the old off and put the new on. Though it was for the best anyway, the old exhaust housing was horribly cracked.

Ended up buying a set of new bolts just recently, only to have one of the jerry-rig temporary bolts refuse to come out. A good soak overnight with liquid wrench, and the sense of relief was incredible when it decided to let go cleanly. Still ran a tap down the threads just to make sure they were clean.

 

[GTM]

Thats what I was going to say, drill a hole in the center then just hammer it out if it just doesn't turn into powder when you drill haha..

Either that or hit it with a hammer until it pops out, works with tripped stuff all the time too.

I presume this was some attempt at humor...

Offering advice like this can get you in the dog house around here.
........................................................

Most EasyOuts specify drill size so it shouldn't be screwing out the other end.
.....................

I think the drill bits are designated HS (high speed). Yes it's bad news when you break a drill off inside the hole which requires drilling along side and or using a small punch to loosen or break it up.

If you are going through several bits and it's not cutting then it's time to either learn how to sharpen or buy good quality to start with. If you have a dull bit to start with you will only work harden the bolt which requires resharpening with a steeper angle.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[prplhz96]

Before I tried to drill it out, I would hit it with a torch. Someone earlier said heat the bolt, but you actually want to heat the exhaust housing not the bolt. As you heat the exhaust manifold around the bolt heat will dissapate to the bolt, but the majority will expand the exhaust housing(in other words, expanding the exhaust housing and not the bolt). Heat, PBlaster and good set of vice grips will remove that bolt no problem.