boost gauge gets stuck sometimes

[dboyle23]

I have had my mechanical boost gauge installed for awhile now, and I have always had this problem. But I don't know if it is contributing to my tuning problem.

When I start the car, the boost gauge reads 0 and is stuck there. After awhile it will go down to -19 as it should, and the idle changes drastically, along with the AFR.

What can cause this??

Ok, heres another thing about it
You know that little knob on the driver side of the stock FPS? If I take off that knob and cap the FPS with my finger, then the idle goes GREAT and the car sounds as it should.

What is the purpose of this knob? Is it just supposed to cap the whole thing off? Can I just put something in it's place to cap it off? Because it seems like its leaking when its on there, like its not doing its job.

 

[mikus]

It's the gauge or the source. Where is it tapped into specifically?

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

By knob do you mean vacuum port? Sounds like it to me. In which case you have a boost/vacuum leak and yes, you need to plug it. Also for the boost gauge make sure it is tapped on the manifold side of the FPS.

 

[dboyle23]

Yeah its tapped on the manifold side of the FPS. So, I just plug up the other side? Because the cap they have there just isn't do it, I can hear it leaking. When I plug it there is no leak sound and the car idle's perfect.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Yeah its tapped on the manifold side of the FPS. So, I just plug up the other side? Because the cap they have there just isn't do it, I can hear it leaking. When I plug it there is no leak sound and the car idle's perfect.

You do have the vacuum line running from the FPS to the FPR, right? Its line "L" in this diagram:

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

You do have the vacuum line running from the FPS to the FPR, right? Its line "L" in this diagram:

There should be no air leaking from up there.

 

[dboyle23]

Yeah, its good, I followed the vfaq for the install.

I have a T in the hose that goes to the passenger side of the FPS.