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Blown turbo help

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96gsdsm

15+ Year Contributor
194
7
Sep 10, 2005
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Ok, so the deal is I blew out my small 16g today, blue smoke everywhere out of the exhaust and everything. I can't drive the car without putting out a James bond smokescreen.

Now my problem ... I have to park on the street at night and a garage is only available to me during the day, which means the car has to switch sides of the street every night. I would really like to take out the turbo to see if it's re-buildable or not, But that means the car is immoble and a $20 ticket every other night and the possibility of a tow for me. It doesn't need to go far or be legal or anything, I honestly don't care If I have an open manifold or anything, but my street is angled heavily towards the curbs, so pushing it would be out of the question, It HAS to be driven onto the other side.


I never thought I would ever ask this question....
Is there a way to make a 4g63 drive without a turbo?

Just maby for a week or 2 while I place orders and possibly rebuild stuff.
 
Same thing just happened to me. I thought it was rings but everything was fine with the car till i got some boost leaks and then she started to smoke more and more when i boosted. And the wheel doesn't spin very easily. Now it just smokes ALL THE TIME, at idle, while driving, while boosting.

I say maybe look for a cheap replacement for now, a 14b or a t2small. Just to get you on the road till you save up to rebuild or replace to something better than a small16g.
 
staticbrainwash said:
Same thing just happened to me. I thought it was rings but everything was fine with the car till i got some boost leaks and then she started to smoke more and more when i boosted. And the wheel doesn't spin very easily. Now it just smokes ALL THE TIME, at idle, while driving, while boosting.

I say maybe look for a cheap replacement for now, a 14b or a t2small. Just to get you on the road till you save up to rebuild or replace to something better than a small16g.

I like the small 16g because it spools quick and I autocross alot. I'd rather give up the high horsepower capability to be able to get it back up to full spool in and out of corners real quick.

The thing is money isn't a problem, It would take me just as long, if not longer to order/install a 14b or t25 then it would for me to rebuild because a rebuild kit is already in the mail, and hopefully it's rebuildable and I didnt waste my money.

The ideal thing for me right now would be a place to park where I didn't have to move the car every night... then all my problems would be solved.
 
My 14b went out like that a few years back. After pulling it apart i found the bronze bearing had broke into three pieces. My shaft was good and i thought about a rebuild, but a nice new ported out 16g went in instead. I hope your kit includes that bearing, if you have a chance change it. If you have to pull apart the shaft be sure to mark the wheels (and nuts) locations and assemble everything EXACTLY how it was, remember turbos are balanced on the shaft and need to be returned to where they were orignally. Good luck.
 
96gsdsm said:
I like the small 16g because it spools quick and I autocross alot. I'd rather give up the high horsepower capability to be able to get it back up to full spool in and out of corners real quick.

The thing is money isn't a problem, It would take me just as long, if not longer to order/install a 14b or t25 then it would for me to rebuild because a rebuild kit is already in the mail, and hopefully it's rebuildable and I didnt waste my money.

The ideal thing for me right now would be a place to park where I didn't have to move the car every night... then all my problems would be solved.


Thats cool, i was just throwing the option out there. It's good you've got the kit on order, just make sure like said above you get the thing balanced. Or it'll just chunk all over again.

There is a way to make a turbo car na but i don't know if it's worth it really. Just disconnect the intake tuber from the turbo and pull the uicp. Get a NA intake pipe and connect up the mas to the na pipe and attach to the TB. If i were you (and if it's an option) i'd just let the car sit till you get the rebuild kit.
 
staticbrainwash said:
Just disconnect the intake tuber from the turbo and pull the uicp. Get a NA intake pipe and connect up the mas to the na pipe and attach to the TB.

Letting the car sit is not an option, It WILL get towed.

Although ... the above statement is a really good Idea, actually just the answer I was looking for, and I don't know why I didn't think of it. Hopefully it will run with no 02 sensor hooked up.

Also, thanks for ## balancing concerns guys, $100 for a rebuild kit plus the huge pain in the but that it's gonna be on me, and and I'm going to make sure that that thing's going to sit straight at 80k - 100k rpm's. I really don't want to go through this again.
 
96gsdsm said:
Although ... the above statement is a really good Idea, actually just the answer I was looking for, and I don't know why I didn't think of it. Hopefully it will run with no 02 sensor hooked up.

Sorry to shoot out another question, but it's real quick I promise.... Is there a way to easily block the oil/water lines? Just yes or no, otherwise I'll just invite over a bunch of guys and buy a 24pack everynight and have them help me push my car across the street every night for booze haha.
 
That is just to get the car to run.

You'd have to change out headers and exhaust and cap lines and stuff to make it fully NA. The turbo will still spin if you hook up the intake pipe like i said above because it's still connected to the exhaust manny.

If i were you i'd just try to borrow some driveway space at someones house till that all gets taken care of. That sucks dude, i know how it goes. Except i HAVE to drive mine. So i shoot oil all over all the time.

Thankfully i have a turbo (used 14b) on the way, and i also have a buschur motor coming too. So things will be taken car of no matter what, haha.

Good luck dude, and let us know what it looks like when you pull that turbo off.

PS, Just be prepared for the car to have NO power if you do this. And maybe get a second opinion on doing it just to make sure. I know for a fact i've seen it done before though, i'm just not sure if the headers and turbo were replaced with NA components.
 
take the 4 bolts out that hold the turbo to the manifold and yank the turbo. Take off the oil feed line and water and cap them somehow. cut some PVC pipe and run it from the throttle body on the intake to the MAF. you won't want to drive the car to the market like this, but it will allow you to drive it to the other side of the street.

FYI (be prepared for a loud exhaust, dont move the car at 5 a.m.)

just my 2c
 
Well, here is my solution.....

I pulled off intercooler piping and used a 3" to 2" adapter (for the MAF) from Home Depot and connected the MAF to the throttle body.

The Vac line for the BOV got connected to the breather vent and all other turbo related vac lines were capped.

I disconnected the wastegate actuator rod from the wastegate so that the turbo wouldn't spool, and I put in a M10 with 1.25 threads the same length as the OEM banjo bolt to cap off the oil to the turbo.

No more boost, no more oil.

It smoked ALOT untill all the oil was out of the turbo and all burned (about 3/4 quart)

It runs just fine, a little lope at idle, but otherwise normal.

I'm ordering a new evo3 16g, so hopefully spool won't be so bad (considering my small 16g was dead, it will probably be faster)
((at least that's my excuse to myself as to why I'm buying a bigger turbo)):sneaky:

Just as a footnote ... a 1g with 7.8:1 compressions and no boost is slower then a 3 cyclinder geo metro.:toobad: But I still have a "16v turbo AWD" sticker on the side of my car, so at least I look fast :shhh: Next thing to come is a big triple decker wing so I can look even faster ROFL

Thanks guys ... problem solved
 
Now that wasn't so bad was it?

I guess you can take the car to the market.. Just slowly:thumb:
 
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