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Bare Block Questions

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Rabbi

15+ Year Contributor
174
1
Mar 15, 2004
Muskegon, Michigan
i got my block torn down ready to goto the machine shop, i have a few questions.


Should i knock all the balance shaft bearings out? Im going to eliminate the shafts anyway. does the rear balance shaft bearing need to be in place when i re-assemble the motor? It has no oiling passage, so im assuming it can just be removed?


Is there any reason not to go .20 over when i have the bore the motor? Im planning on wiseco pistons if that matters.


Anything else i need to have them do at the machine shop besides bore/hone , hot tanked and checked for cracks?
 
Should i knock all the balance shaft bearings out? Im going to eliminate the shafts anyway. does the rear balance shaft bearing need to be in place when i re-assemble the motor? It has no oiling passage, so im assuming it can just be removed?
I'd take them out, you'll have to reinstall the front BS bearings or use block-off bearings but the rear ones don't have to be reinstalled.

Is there any reason not to go .20 over when i have the bore the motor? Im planning on wiseco pistons if that matters.
The only reason I wouldn't overbore them is if they only need honed, you don't need to bore them and if machining costs or trustworthiness of the machine shop is an issue.

Anything else i need to have them do at the machine shop besides bore/hone , hot tanked and checked for cracks?
Have the deck resurfaced, and have them replace the 2G piston oil squirters with 1G style or have the oiler holes plugged. The 2G oilers are inferior, and since you're going with a forged piston I think I'd probably just have the holes plugged. You will also want to have the oil relief hole ported to combat high oil pressure, especially if you eliminate the piston oil squirters.
 
I'd take them out, you'll have to reinstall the front BS bearings or use block-off bearings but the rear ones don't have to be reinstalled.


The only reason I wouldn't overbore them is if they only need honed, you don't need to bore them and if machining costs or trustworthiness of the machine shop is an issue.


Have the deck resurfaced, and have them replace the 2G piston oil squirters with 1G style or have the oiler holes plugged. The 2G oilers are inferior, and since you're going with a forged piston I think I'd probably just have the holes plugged. You will also want to have the oil relief hole ported to combat high oil pressure, especially if you eliminate the piston oil squirters.


i thought the 2g blocks didnt have oil squirters? i didnt see any when i disembled the block anyway
 
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