auto tranny rebuild

[gmentals]

I have decided that I am going to teach myself to rebuild a 2g awd auto. I was wondering if anyone else has done this and can offer any input. I have seen the ipt kit for $489, but I was wondering if there is anything else cheaper of the same quality. What about the alto rebuild kit? I would assume it is of an equal quality, since they have been around so long. Also what is good to use to clean up the inside and outside of the tranny? Once it is disassembled does anything special have to be done to clean it(i.e.- dipped)?

 

[Old Mitsu Tech]

Well, I've rebuilt a few. You have to be careful and one thing I learned the hard way is when you put the big snap ring in, make the ends come together at the pulse generator hole. If you don't, the reverse brake will lock it up and it won't move. This is because the pulse generator will push it out of its groove when you install the pulse generators. Make sure the pulse generators are open.

Other than that, just be careful and make sure it goes back exactly like it came apart. Don't tear or cut any seals or it won't work properly.

Good Luck

 

[gmentals]

Thanks man I'll keep that in mind. Do you know of any special tools I will need?

 

[Old Mitsu Tech]

Not off hand, but if you install anything wrong, it won't work. Get a book that shows you how to air check your servos as you are coming out. This will help in making sure you didn't overlook anything only to discover it when you are trying to take off.

Air check is important.

Also, if you have somewhat of a good relationship with a transmission shop, they can tell you real quick what went wrong by what you tell them it is doing.

They are almost psychic if they are a good shop.

Good LUck and be careful.

 

[alex]

Here are some numbers to give to parts stores to ensure you get the right stuff. The first filter kit I got I told the guy car make and so on. Got home and it was wrong. After calling other stores, the same part number (wrong one) kept coming up. This way you can call ahead and order if needed. These numbers are for the F4A33 tranny.


The filter kit I prefer is the Beck/Arnley Filter kit. It has a neoprene gasket (black rubber) and works best.

Part#044-0245

If you want to go back into the pan and change the shift adjuster you will most likely ruin the gasket.

The gasket only, I found two numbers:

Fel-Pro #TOS 18703 replaces MD738078 (Mitsu Number).

ATP Part#TG107 (not verified*)

Other filter kits:

Fram Part # FT-1153 (cork gasket)

AC DELCO Part# TF 284 (not verified*)

ATP Part# JX150 (also not verified*)

*not verified means I have cross reference the numbers on the web, so I have not seen or used. The others (fram, felpro and beck) I have purchased and used.

The RTV I use is Permatex #80016 2BR. It has worked the best so far for stopping leaks. I check my car a lot and it does not leak at all (knock on wood). Also, this RTV is black so it blends in better in most cases.

As for Tranny fluid, I used Mitsubishi Diamond ATF up until the shift kit. The OEM fluid is more expensive (surprise surprise) than B&M TrickShift. So, I picked up a bunch from PepBoys and use it only. Its hard to tell which fluid is better due to the fact the shift kit was put in at the same time, which of course makes it feel better.


The Manual Valve for the valve body (people seem to break this a lot while doing shift kit).

That number is MD716843.


Helicoil for the head/valve cover bolts. This will mend the bolts with a 10mm head (IE. Oil Pan, Tranny Pan, Etc.)

Kit#5546-6 M6x1

Insert Package Part #R1084-6

You can take the bolt to some auto parts store and they will give you the correct kit for that size. I plan to Heli-Coil the entire head (where Valve Cover attaches) on the engine I am rebuilding. I have read these are coils steel and offer a longer lasting thread.


This is the O-Ring for the BISS screw. I picked mine up at Sears Hardware (plumbing section) and fixed my idle problem. The old O-Ring went bad due to age and no longer sealed.



The Part Number is 3/8 x 1/4 x 1/16 #5 O-RING It costed 25cents or something like that.


The fuel Filter I used was this one. It comes with two crush washers BTW.

Fram G6553


Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (MCCC)

Usually 7 bucks a can from your Local Dodge dealer. You follow the directions from VFAQ and it cleans carbon from the valves, etc. Cleans Throttle Bodies nicely also.

Anti-Seize for those stubborn bolts. Permatex Advanced Formula Item# 80078. Use them on the turbo to manifold bolts, downpipe bolts, spark plugs and anywhere else that bolts stick. If you work on the car a lot this is a good idea.


PB Blaster This is great to soak and free rusted bolts, I also spray it on exhaust rubber hangers to slide them off. Good stuff.

I got this information off www.vfaq.com

 

[gmentals]

Dude that is an exact copy of some info from plymouthlaser.com. I appreciate the attempt, but dont try to take credit for the work other people have done in gathering info.

 

[alex]

Ok, thats probley why I have stated in there that I got it from www.vfaq.com in which I did. Read the whole thing next time.

 

[gmentals]

Yeah, I read the whole post and I see where you said where you got it from. I am already familiar with that info, so thanks anyway.

 

[alex]

Dude that is an exact copy of some info from plymouthlaser.com. I appreciate the attempt, but dont try to take credit for the work other people have done in gathering info.

Then make sure you read the whole post before critisizing other people on how they dont give credit.