Anyone experienced in sub design want to help me?

[boost97gst]

Seems like quite a few of you know a LOT about wave tuning and frequency. Would a couple 10s(very high quality of course, cant cheap out) work for you? You would retain your space and if built right should be able to get all the low freq you need and plenty of dB. Ive used a tone generator on my polk 10" in my home theater and was very surprised to see how low and loud it is. Thats a very expensive piece though and its not in a car... Apples to oranges i suppose.

Good luck with your project

 

[Breezio69]

A great box filler to improve sound in a small box is that white "insulation filler" used to stuff blankets. Its like an inch thick and comes in sheets or a roll thats about a foot wide. Anyways, just staple it on the inside of the box all around. Just a little trick.

I think you can get it at walmart by the pillows/ bed pads. If not, a craft or fabric store for sure has it.

Edit, it was bugging me that I couldn't remember what its called. Batting, I use the stuff that's an inch thick or more.

 

[DJ Raydiate]

Seems like quite a few of you know a LOT about wave tuning and frequency. Would a couple 10s(very high quality of course, cant cheap out) work for you? You would retain your space and if built right should be able to get all the low freq you need and plenty of dB. Ive used a tone generator on my polk 10" in my home theater and was very surprised to see how low and loud it is. Thats a very expensive piece though and its not in a car... Apples to oranges i suppose.

Good luck with your project

I got my 12s as hand me downs and space (or lack of) wasn't an issue for me. I will be building a box like this (maybe the op will give dimensions once done hint hint) when I go to upgrade to the ones I want in a year or so (other projects first).

 

[42395_skyline]

It looks good. How many cu ft did you figure that out to be? 1.3 per side? That's going to be killer. My subs needed 1.25-1.75cu ft each so my box is pretty big. I have no hatch room but I was able to built a privacy cover out of 1/2 mdf and added 2 6x9s on to it. If you look into my rear window, all you can see is the 6x9s and a BOSS light that I made.

Yes, roughly 1.3 Ft^3 per side. Would love to see a pic of that, sounds killer! What subs did you go with?

Seems like quite a few of you know a LOT about wave tuning and frequency. Would a couple 10s(very high quality of course, cant cheap out) work for you? You would retain your space and if built right should be able to get all the low freq you need and plenty of dB. Ive used a tone generator on my polk 10" in my home theater and was very surprised to see how low and loud it is. Thats a very expensive piece though and its not in a car... Apples to oranges i suppose.

Good luck with your project

If I could go back, I probably would of gotten 2 10's instead. But once I see my custom setup done I think I will appreciate it more because of the hard work I put into it. Especially it being my first time.

A great box filler to improve sound in a small box is that white "insulation filler" used to stuff blankets. Its like an inch thick and comes in sheets or a roll thats about a foot wide. Anyways, just staple it on the inside of the box all around. Just a little trick.

I think you can get it at walmart by the pillows/ bed pads. If not, a craft or fabric store for sure has it.

Edit, it was bugging me that I couldn't remember what its called. Batting, I use the stuff that's an inch thick or more.

Wouldn't a pound of polyfill in each side be better than an inch of the filler stabled to the walls?

I got my 12s as hand me downs and space (or lack of) wasn't an issue for me. I will be building a box like this (maybe the op will give dimensions once done hint hint) when I go to upgrade to the ones I want in a year or so (other projects first).

I just realized I missed this post Yea I can share the dimensions once it's built. Maybe you can do an accurate measurement and let me know how much volume it has. I only did a rough calculation since I know it's safely over 1.25 each. so I didn't care about specific space.

 

[42395_skyline]

I have been searching for an amp kit since I made this thread and still haven't decided on one. If anyone can recommend one I will take consideration. Not sure if I want to go with a 4AWG CCA or 6/8AWG pure copper kit. I know if I want the kit this weekend it has to be less than $100.

 

[DJ Raydiate]

You can piece your own kit together from ordering wire and such on ebay instead for one whole kit. Its like a convenience charge for having it all in a kit. Find a kit that you like and then look on ebay for pretty much the same thing, It would come out cheaper. That's just my opinion though.20ft 4 GA Amplifier Installation 4 Gauge Wire Flexible Quality 12V Power Cable | eBayPure copper would be better but for what your doing, I think this would be just fine.

 

[42395_skyline]

You can piece your own kit together from ordering wire and such on ebay instead for one whole kit. Its like a convenience charge for having it all in a kit. Find a kit that you like and then look on ebay for pretty much the same thing, It would come out cheaper. That's just my opinion though.20ft 4 GA Amplifier Installation 4 Gauge Wire Flexible Quality 12V Power Cable | eBayPure copper would be better but for what your doing, I think this would be just fine.

If I did go with 4AWG CCA I could get a full kit for $30 shipped on amazon, which would be cheaper. I really doubt it would make a difference on 800watt system but I just am very hesitant. I know those walmart kits are out of the question, they don't even have true 4AWG CCA. More like 6/8AWG CCA with thick insulation. [ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008UXYNWA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3QWSZ44N8P3XH"]This[/ame] is the link I was looking at, reviews from sonicelectronix say that it is decent enough for smaller system like mines.

 

[DJ Raydiate]

If I did go with 4AWG CCA I could get a full kit for $30 shipped on amazon, which would be cheaper. I really doubt it would make a difference on 800watt system but I just am very hesitant. I know those walmart kits are out of the question, they don't even have true 4AWG CCA. More like 6/8AWG CCA with thick insulation. This is the link I was looking at, reviews from sonicelectronix say that it is decent enough for smaller system like mines.

That's a better price than I thought. I have bought from sonic before and I would again so..

 

[42395_skyline]

That's a better price than I thought. I have bought from sonic before and I would again so..

I'm thinking of just trying it out Only $30. I'll use the included speaker wire as the remote wire and use my own 14AWG CCA speaker wire to hook up the subs. Hope it all works out fine Now I need to get to thinking of a place to put a hidden amp kill switch

 

[91-GS]

If you don't use factory ash tray you can mount a switch inside of it.

 

[42395_skyline]

If you don't use factory ash tray you can mount a switch inside of it.

That's one of the first places I considered but I do use it. I was thinking under the seat might be a good place but it's not the quickest reach. I'm trying to find a place I an quickly access but is completely hidden unless you know it's there. I like the oem look. It's hard to keep though when adding all these aftermarket stuff

 

[Mark4g63t]

I think you guy's should look into a box that is actually designed for a 2 door coupe, not just throw a huge heavy box with multiple subs in. Will take up less weight, space, and sound better. Just my $.02.

 

[DJ Raydiate]

I think you guy's should look into a box that is actually designed for a 2 door coupe, not just throw a huge heavy box with multiple subs in. Will take up less weight, space, and sound better. Just my $.02.

I built my box around the speakers specifications. I got them from my brother that had them in a box designed for a 2 door coupe. The smaller box starved the speakers from the air space required for them to run properly. The OP is doing the right thing by building the box around the speakers for best sound. By the time he is done, it should look nice and clean and still have space in the rear.

Say one buys a box that is 1cu ft per side. Then they go and find a set of speakers that they like,put them in that box. Lets just say that the min. cu ft required for the sub IS 1 cu ft. However, Once one puts the speaker inside the box, it is no longer 1cu ft of airspace left inside there.

One has to take into consideration that you will have some loss of airspace when the speaker is added, hence it's best to build boxes vs buying and if done right, it will look 10xs better than any prefab box. That's my $.02

That's one of the first places I considered but I do use it. I was thinking under the seat might be a good place but it's not the quickest reach. I'm trying to find a place I an quickly access but is completely hidden unless you know it's there. I like the oem look. It's hard to keep though when adding all these aftermarket stuff

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-exterior-interior/456048-how-add-extra-oem-switch-accessories.html

 

[42395_skyline]

I think you guy's should look into a box that is actually designed for a 2 door coupe, not just throw a huge heavy box with multiple subs in. Will take up less weight, space, and sound better. Just my $.02.

I see where you are coming from and in some cases you are correct. But here is my case.

Weight: I will have some extra weight, but I have removed my spare tire and tools and I am considering further weight reduction depending on the total weight of the system once finished. I will weight the box, subs, and amp then subtract the total of my usual tools and spare to see if I am fine with the extra weight or if I want to remove a little more. I also only weight 117 pounds.

Space: Getting a pre-fab box would take extra space than my custom fit design. Also I was able to choose my air space specifically for my subs.

Sound: Custom box's sound better when done correct. A pre-fab box may not have the correct volume or may even be poorly made depending on where you get it.

I could of had 2 10's or one 12 which would way less and take up less space, but I just decided I wanted to give up some space and add some weight.

I built my box around the speakers specifications. I got them from my brother that had them in a box designed for a 2 door coupe. The smaller box starved the speakers from the air space required for them to run properly. The OP is doing the right thing by building the box around the speakers for best sound. By the time he is done, it should look nice and clean and still have space in the rear.

Say one buys a box that is 1cu ft per side. Then they go and find a set of speakers that they like,put them in that box. Lets just say that the min. cu ft required for the sub IS 1 cu ft. However, Once one puts the speaker inside the box, it is no longer 1cu ft of airspace left inside there.

One has to take into consideration that you will have some loss of airspace when the speaker is added, hence it's best to build boxes vs buying and if done right, it will look 10xs better than any prefab box. That's my $.02


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-exterior-interior/456048-how-add-extra-oem-switch-accessories.html

I saw that recently actually, I got unusually exited That blank has always bothered me. I was trying to figure out if I would have a better use for it though.

Today at a halloween party someone brought to my attention that I could add a hidden switch under the seat behind the plastic on the top left of the seat. I would take pictures but I can't right now. Seems like a good location. Also great for when you see a cop. Decisions decision

EDIT: I am going to use the extra OEM switch for the killswitch and if I find a better use for it I will just change it. Thanks DJ

 

[91-GS]

Mounting the switch in a seat is not a bad idea, just gotta keep in mind that seat does move and that you will need quite a long piece of wire to reach there.

Are you keeping cruise control or A/C? One of those switches will work.

A crazier idea would be to cut a small slot inside of an existing gap between two console panels. Behind it mount two contacts that are part of 'remote' wire. Now wen you need to shut off the subs, you take a business card, a credit card, or any other kind of card and stick it in the gap. That pushes the contacts apart and shuts off the sub.

An equally crazy idea would be to have a normally open magnetic reed switch mounted behind one of the panels, perhaps right under the cup holder and have a magnet taped to the bottom of a can sitting in there (or some other object that one would normally find in a cup holder or some place where junk likes to gather). The idea is that the magnet closes the switch allowing the amp to turn on. Removing the item removes the magnet and allows the switch to open, shutting off the amp. It might be inconvenient to always have an empty can in the cup holder, but surely you can think of a better location/object if you go this route.

 

[42395_skyline]

Mounting the switch in a seat is not a bad idea, just gotta keep in mind that seat does move and that you will need quite a long piece of wire to reach there.

Are you keeping cruise control or A/C? One of those switches will work.

A crazier idea would be to cut a small slot inside of an existing gap between two console panels. Behind it mount two contacts that are part of 'remote' wire. Now wen you need to shut off the subs, you take a business card, a credit card, or any other kind of card and stick it in the gap. That pushes the contacts apart and shuts off the sub.

An equally crazy idea would be to have a normally open magnetic reed switch mounted behind one of the panels, perhaps right under the cup holder and have a magnet taped to the bottom of a can sitting in there (or some other object that one would normally find in a cup holder or some place where junk likes to gather). The idea is that the magnet closes the switch allowing the amp to turn on. Removing the item removes the magnet and allows the switch to open, shutting off the amp. It might be inconvenient to always have an empty can in the cup holder, but surely you can think of a better location/object if you go this route.

I have enough wire to reach anywhere in the car. I also am keeping my ac and I'm going to get around to fixing my cruise control so I can use it.

Great ideas although they are too inconvenient for me. Tomorrow I'll be picking up another module to modify and add the extra eom switch. Thanks for the idea though.